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Post  mitchg95 Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:42 pm

i am thinking of making a twin or boxer engine composed of 2 or 4 cox .049/.051 cylinders,
with either one, would i need to make the air intake bigger since it is supporting 2 cylinders in the twin and 4 in the boxer?
i am thinking of making a alluminum backplate that is almost exact as the white horse shoe backplates that are available, and last, fuel induction, how should i do this? will a reed valve work, my guess is, no? or should i use a teedee carberator from a larger engine like a .09 or a .15 and totally bypass my backplate idea
thanks, mitch
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:54 pm

You could make it a rear drum valve engine like on the Cox Olympic or RR1 that I have. OS also has made rear drum valve engines. I have an old OS 80 Twin Plug, rear drum valve engine. You just need a small pin on the back of the crank to drive the rear valve.
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Post  mitchg95 Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:06 pm

Jason_WI wrote:You could make it a rear drum valve engine like on the Cox Olympic or RR1 that I have. OS also has made rear drum valve engines. I have an old OS 80 Twin Plug, rear drum valve engine. You just need a small pin on the back of the crank to drive the rear valve.

what about timing on it?
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Post  microflitedude Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:14 pm

Reggie at VGE made some RR2's that used a rear rotary valve. He made an aluminum horseshoe back plate like you mentioned.
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Post  mitchg95 Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:16 pm

microflitedude wrote:Reggie at VGE made some RR2's that used a rear rotary valve. He made an aluminum horseshoe back plate like you mentioned.

does his website work yet? i will have to ask him, wonder how much a rr2 backplate would cost Huh...
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:19 pm

mitchg95 wrote:
Jason_WI wrote:You could make it a rear drum valve engine like on the Cox Olympic or RR1 that I have. OS also has made rear drum valve engines. I have an old OS 80 Twin Plug, rear drum valve engine. You just need a small pin on the back of the crank to drive the rear valve.

what about timing on it?

If your wanting to keep it simple then you will have to have all cylinders fire at the same time otherwise you will need a roots blower to pressurize the crankcase to induce the charge to each cylinder.
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Post  mitchg95 Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:21 pm

Jason_WI wrote:
mitchg95 wrote:
Jason_WI wrote:You could make it a rear drum valve engine like on the Cox Olympic or RR1 that I have. OS also has made rear drum valve engines. I have an old OS 80 Twin Plug, rear drum valve engine. You just need a small pin on the back of the crank to drive the rear valve.

what about timing on it?

If your wanting to keep it simple then you will have to have all cylinders fire at the same time otherwise you will need a roots blower to pressurize the crankcase to induce the charge to each cylinder.

ok, that sounds simpler, but how do i time that?
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Post  JPvelo Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:20 pm

In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft. What type of machining ability/equipment do you have at your disposal?
If I were making a rear drum engine I would try putting the pin on the drum and have it interface with the hollow on the crank pin of a killer bee crankshaft.
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Post  mitchg95 Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:11 am

JPvelo wrote:In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft. What type of machining ability/equipment do you have at your disposal?
If I were making a rear drum engine I would try putting the pin on the drum and have it interface with the hollow on the crank pin of a killer bee crankshaft.

i am starting a cnc machining class at a community college this week, and they have lathes, drill presses, cnc machines and many more
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Post  JPvelo Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:30 am

mitchg95 wrote:
JPvelo wrote:In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft. What type of machining ability/equipment do you have at your disposal?
If I were making a rear drum engine I would try putting the pin on the drum and have it interface with the hollow on the crank pin of a killer bee crankshaft.

i am starting a cnc machining class at a community college this week, and they have lathes, drill presses, cnc machines and many more
Sounds like fun, where do I sighn up? Very Happy
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Post  mitchg95 Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:53 am

JPvelo wrote:
mitchg95 wrote:
JPvelo wrote:In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft. What type of machining ability/equipment do you have at your disposal?
If I were making a rear drum engine I would try putting the pin on the drum and have it interface with the hollow on the crank pin of a killer bee crankshaft.

i am starting a cnc machining class at a community college this week, and they have lathes, drill presses, cnc machines and many more
Sounds like fun, where do I sighn up? Very Happy

lol, this class is going to be great, what machinery do u use for your engines?
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Post  ahrma_581 Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:08 am

JPvelo wrote:In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft.

Or one piece rods and an assembled crank, which is normal roller crank practice (motorcycle, way old VW hop up, boats, etc.). Altho then you are stuck with truing the thing, which is usually done with a BA lead hammer...
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Post  ahrma_581 Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:10 am

?????


Last edited by ahrma_581 on Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:10 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Stupid computer double posted my post....)
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Post  mitchg95 Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:20 am

ahrma_581 wrote:
JPvelo wrote:In order to have all cylinders fire at the same time you will not only need to make a crankshaft but rods with removable end caps to go on said crankshaft.

Or one piece rods and an assembled crank, which is normal roller crank practice (motorcycle, way old VW hop up, boats, etc.). Altho then you are stuck with truing the thing, which is usually done with a BA lead hammer...

thats one way, the hammer would be fun until i break something...

anyone: does anyone have plans for this engine? this is what i was thinking of in my first post
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1545336
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