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Post  ebeneezer Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:56 am

Sorry be a pain but I'm new to this engine trouble shooting game. I've been trying to run my 010 with no luck. It will run on the prime but thats all. I've checked I'm getting fuel to the carb and Iv'e taken the carb off and blown it through. Iv'e also cleaned and visualy inspected the needle, that seems ok. The only thing I cant check is the compression. Having not run one before, it coud be on the low side. it is compered to my PeeWee. Is there a way to quantify compression? Or is that down to experience, and is there anythig else I can check. If it is the compression how do I increase it? Huh...
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Post  RknRusty Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:55 pm

If it runs on the prime the compression probably isn't what's causing it to stall. More like a clogged orifice in the needle valve assembly.

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Post  fit90 Sun Aug 19, 2012 1:06 pm

Have you checked the holes in the venturi, not the big ones but the ones that the fuel sprays into the venturi through? I do not have any experience with the .010 but I imagine these holes are very tiny and easily plugged on such a small engine.
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Post  RknRusty Sun Aug 19, 2012 2:21 pm

fit90 wrote:Have you checked the holes in the venturi, not the big ones but the ones that the fuel sprays into the venturi through? I do not have any experience with the .010 but I imagine these holes are very tiny and easily plugged on such a small engine.
Most definitely that. I didn't know the .010 had the shower type carb. I flush the ones on the .049s a matter of habit when I get ready to crank any one that hasn't run that day. In fact I take the NVA off and thoroughly back flush it with forced alcohol whenever I'm through flying.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:57 pm

Are you running with the supplied tank or external?

Can you see fuel coming up through the hose when you choke the carb?
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Aug 19, 2012 7:06 pm

If the compression is low, checking the glow plug would be a start. Spray some light oil or even soapy water around the base and flip to check for air bubbles. I like to remove the plug, I then have use a piece of plate glass. I put 600 grit paper or finer on the glass. I then take the plug using some WD-40 or light machine oil and holding the plug flat on top of the sandpaper draw figure eights. Only do it enough until you get an even wear pattern on the seating portion of the plug. Clean the residue by flushing with alcohol before running the engine. Having new copper head gasket shims would help as well. This will assure you that the plug isn't leaking. Ken
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Post  ebeneezer Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:14 am

Thanke Guys, do I take it,that after I've removed the needle valve assy. I should be able to separate the venuri from the needle valve? Should they just pull apart? if not how?

Cheers Huh...
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Post  John Goddard Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:01 am

Let's take a step back.
If it's running on prime it's not a lack of compression
It's a lack of fuel.
What fuel are you running?
What nitro content?
I'd try opening the needle valve up until it does
Run, one of mine won't run past the braaaaaaarp
Until the n/v is 6.75 turns out.
Make sure you've got fresh fuel as well, I spent
3 months of frustration playing about with 'new'
Fuel which had obviously been sat in a model
Shop since they last sold Cox motors 15 years ago.
In my experience 'Southern Model Craft' is the best
In the UK cos he makes it to order but you've either
Got to pick it up from him (Tunbridge Wells)
or buy from him at one of the
Shows.
If you just want a small amount drop me a PM and I'll
Send you half a litre.
Very Happy
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Post  microflitedude Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:18 am

cribbs74 wrote:Are you running with the supplied tank or external?

Can you see fuel coming up through the hose when you choke the carb?

I'm pretty sure he is running the attached tank. (looking at his avatar)
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Post  Admin Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:38 am

I have a manual just in case you don't have one. It shows the breakdown of the engine as well as starting instructions. DOWNLOAD

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Post  balogh Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:29 am

Gents,

another neuralgic point of 010 TEE DEE-s is the thread on the needle valve that, after some hours of run, will wear the thread in aluminum carb and let false air on top of thr fuel in.

I pull a plastic tube over the needle valve so ast to cover the threaded niopple on the carb and prevent air ingress. It also helps stop needle valve vibrations that would add to an accelerated wear of the thread in the aluminum carb body.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:48 am

I always thought that the threads inside the NVB were steel. I know the TD .049's use a threaded pressed in insert. Ashamed to say I never looked at the .010's

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Post  balogh Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:54 am

Unfortunately ther NVB seems to have been made of aluminum, thus its longevity is not comparable to that of the TeeDee010 engine as a whole. When left with vibration, it will ooze a blackish aluminum mud out the threaded nipple and gets sloppy within short. From then on the false ingress of air into the carb is only a matter of time and the erratic run will also follw.
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Post  ebeneezer Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:05 am

Good Idea balogh, I'll try it. Screwing steel into aluminium without some kind of Helicoil is never a good idea. Babe Bee .049
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