Help with starting TeeDee 010

Have you checked the holes in the venturi, not the big ones but the ones that the fuel sprays into the venturi through? I do not have any experience with the .010 but I imagine these holes are very tiny and easily plugged on such a small engine.

fit90 wrote:Have you checked the holes in the venturi, not the big ones but the ones that the fuel sprays into the venturi through? I do not have any experience with the .010 but I imagine these holes are very tiny and easily plugged on such a small engine.

Most definitely that. I didn't know the .010 had the shower type carb. I flush the ones on the .049s a matter of habit when I get ready to crank any one that hasn't run that day. In fact I take the NVA off and thoroughly back flush it with forced alcohol whenever I'm through flying.

Are you running with the supplied tank or external?

Can you see fuel coming up through the hose when you choke the carb?

If the compression is low, checking the glow plug would be a start. Spray some light oil or even soapy water around the base and flip to check for air bubbles. I like to remove the plug, I then have use a piece of plate glass. I put 600 grit paper or finer on the glass. I then take the plug using some WD-40 or light machine oil and holding the plug flat on top of the sandpaper draw figure eights. Only do it enough until you get an even wear pattern on the seating portion of the plug. Clean the residue by flushing with alcohol before running the engine. Having new copper head gasket shims would help as well. This will assure you that the plug isn't leaking. Ken

Thanke Guys, do I take it,that after I've removed the needle valve assy. I should be able to separate the venuri from the needle valve? Should they just pull apart? if not how?

Cheers

Let's take a step back.
If it's running on prime it's not a lack of compression
It's a lack of fuel.
What fuel are you running?
What nitro content?
I'd try opening the needle valve up until it does
Run, one of mine won't run past the braaaaaaarp
Until the n/v is 6.75 turns out.
Make sure you've got fresh fuel as well, I spent
3 months of frustration playing about with 'new'
Fuel which had obviously been sat in a model
Shop since they last sold Cox motors 15 years ago.
In my experience 'Southern Model Craft' is the best
In the UK cos he makes it to order but you've either
Got to pick it up from him (Tunbridge Wells)
or buy from him at one of the
Shows.
If you just want a small amount drop me a PM and I'll
Send you half a litre.

cribbs74 wrote:Are you running with the supplied tank or external?

Can you see fuel coming up through the hose when you choke the carb?

I'm pretty sure he is running the attached tank. (looking at his avatar)

I have a manual just in case you don't have one. It shows the breakdown of the engine as well as starting instructions. DOWNLOAD

Gents,

another neuralgic point of 010 TEE DEE-s is the thread on the needle valve that, after some hours of run, will wear the thread in aluminum carb and let false air on top of thr fuel in.

I pull a plastic tube over the needle valve so ast to cover the threaded niopple on the carb and prevent air ingress. It also helps stop needle valve vibrations that would add to an accelerated wear of the thread in the aluminum carb body.

I always thought that the threads inside the NVB were steel. I know the TD .049's use a threaded pressed in insert. Ashamed to say I never looked at the .010's

Ron

Unfortunately ther NVB seems to have been made of aluminum, thus its longevity is not comparable to that of the TeeDee010 engine as a whole. When left with vibration, it will ooze a blackish aluminum mud out the threaded nipple and gets sloppy within short. From then on the false ingress of air into the carb is only a matter of time and the erratic run will also follw.

Good Idea balogh, I'll try it. Screwing steel into aluminium without some kind of Helicoil is never a good idea.