What do you think. I got a new camera.

jsesere wrote:

Early sixties.

It has a 3 piece piston and large needle valve top.

England dosen't stand a chance.

nitroairplane wrote:

jsesere wrote:

Early sixties.

Its a 1957 maybe even late 56.

looks good!

So what camera did you get? If you learn to set Program mode for your most common needs, the batteries will last Way longer than running it on automatic.

I bought a http://shopping.yahoo.com/767912987-cyber-shot-dsc-w350-point-shoot-black-digital-camera/[center] off of EBay. Take real good pictures and simple to use.

I tried the DSC-W350 last Summer. It was fine with stills, but I couldn't take pictures of anything that had the slightest motion. Or indoor lighting shots. But your engine picture is superb.
Give it a good tryout in case you decide it's not right for you, they'll take it back. I gave mine a two week tryout from Best Buy.
Mine had Sony optics, while other identically packaged Cybershots had a more upscale brand with, I think, maybe a German name.

Photo looks great Joe.
Money well spent.
Bob

I rarely use my camera for anything but stills. Darn good camera for the money.

Wonderful quality Joe, so good you can even see the dust! Go run it!!!

jsesere wrote:It has a 3 piece piston and large needle valve top.

jsesere: what do you mean by "3 piece piston"? the piston was like larger engines with a piston rod and a pin thru the piston and rod?? not like the current ball-in-socket type piston/rod arrangement? i have a piston for an atwood .049 like that, but it doesn't fit any of my current atwood engines.
happydad

happydad wrote:

jsesere wrote:It has a 3 piece piston and large needle valve top.

jsesere: what do you mean by "3 piece piston"? the piston was like larger engines with a piston rod and a pin thru the piston and rod?? not like the current ball-in-socket type piston/rod arrangement? i have a piston for an atwood .049 like that, but it doesn't fit any of my current atwood engines.
happydad

This is the piston in my 1956 Babe Bee

As you can see, the con-rod is held in with a clip and a ring. They have an aluminum connecting rod that causes the piston assembly to weigh about half a gram less.

3 piece pistons were used up until early-mid 1957 they were used in the Space Bug, Space Bug Jr., Thermal Hopper, Strato Bug, Early Babe Bees, Early Golden Bees...

Most people who buy these pistons usually buy them for a spare or replacement in a pre-1956 engine but some people who do know about their lighter weight will buy them for performance boosting reasons when used in engines like a TD or Black Widow. The only issue I worry about is that the aluminum rod could snap when using them to boost performance in a TD. Most 3 piece pistons feel looser than the newer peened-over pistons so therefore people think they need to be reset and they end up ruining it by trying to reset it with a regular reset tool (not knowing about the different design inside).

Admin wrote:

happydad wrote:

jsesere wrote:It has a 3 piece piston and large needle valve top.

jsesere: what do you mean by "3 piece piston"? the piston was like larger engines with a piston rod and a pin thru the piston and rod?? not like the current ball-in-socket type piston/rod arrangement? i have a piston for an atwood .049 like that, but it doesn't fit any of my current atwood engines.
happydad

This is the piston in my 1956 Babe Bee

As you can see, the con-rod is held in with a clip and a ring. They have an aluminum connecting rod that causes the piston assembly to weigh about half a gram less.

3 piece pistons were used up until early-mid 1957 they were used in the Space Bug, Space Bug Jr., Thermal Hopper, Strato Bug, Early Babe Bees, Early Golden Bees...

Most people who buy these pistons usually buy them for a spare or replacement in a pre-1956 engine but some people who do know about their lighter weight will buy them for performance boosting reasons when used in engines like a TD or Black Widow. The only issue I worry about is that the aluminum rod could snap when using them to boost performance in a TD. Most 3 piece pistons feel looser than the newer peened-over pistons so therefore people think they need to be reset and they end up ruining it by trying to reset it with a regular reset tool (not knowing about the different design inside).

jsesere: i forgot about the clip and ring. i have seen a couple broken ones. nice pics.

happydad

Here's a different internal picture. Note the lighter colored back plate and narrow crank case along with the 3 piece piston as described above of the early Bee's.

I have 2 or 3 of the 3 piece piston assemblies and
thought about taking one apart. Thats as far as I got.
Looks like a one way deal, not to be dissasembled.
Anyone ever done it?
Bob

Again, nice camerawork Joe.

Here's a picture Jacob sent to me so I guess it can be done.

Aha, so it can be done.
Now we need Bernie to start making
replacement con-rod retainers.
Big market there.
Bob

Joe, don't know if you've seen this.
http://antiquemodelenginesrunning.blogspot.com/2010/12/cox-049-baby-bee.html
I've heard '56-'57 mentioned for the BabeBee and the 3 piece piston several times.
That would make them the oldest of all the BabeBees.
I have 2 or 3 of them, but haven't run one.(I don't think)
Bob