My own design/Flight report...

That'll fly. The nose looks good sand sturdy and I like the rubber banded motor mount. With the long control rod you might want to consider a support half way back to prevent flexing or twisting. Looks like you put some nice airfoil shape on the wing. Let us know how it handles. Video if possible.
Welcome to CEF.

Following the old adage 'if it looks right it'll fly right'
I think you'll be fine.
The wings look a little skinny but I reckon the power
Cut glide will keep you on your toes.
Don't forget the utube.
Goodluck we're all rooting for ya.

Nice plane and welcome!
How well does it balance out with the wing so far forward?

cribbs74 yes I am painting today I hope...Orange.Thanks
RknRusty Thanks if you look close I made a loop with music wire and glued it in the fuse.
Thanks John wing is 1/4 I sanded an air foil on.At 54sq.in. and 20% it should glide some...
nitroairplane balance is at 20% the landing gear raked forward for some assist with out adding weight.

Welcome to our forum.

It should give you good service as a trainer. As Indra has mentioned be sure that it balances properly. It would appear to be nose-heavy. (Nose-heavy planes don't fly well and tail-heavy planes usually crash)

Be sure to place a i/4 ounce of weight on the outboard wingtip to keep the plane from coming in to meet you in the center of the circle when it's in flight.

SuperDave wrote:Be sure to place a i/4 ounce of weight on the outboard wingtip to keep the plane from coming in to meet you in the center of the circle when it's in flight.

And a bit of right rudder, too, if it's not too late, mmmkay?

If it is too late to add right rudder offest the same effect may be achieved by offseting the engine slightly by adding small washers inder the inboard mounting lugs.

The idea allows the plane to maintain tension on the flying lines allowing control in all manuvers attempted. If the offset proves to be excessive and the plane pulls too hard on the lines remove the small washers.

Better to start with too much pull than too little. Adjustments may be made once you see how the plane flys.

Welcome Dean,

Bear in mind that fuel will rot rubber bands in very short order, either replace them regularly or expect the engine to depart for parts unknown!

I like the mount because in a crash,or hard landing engine safely detaches with little or no damage.Cheap insurance rubber bands are, in the past I changed them at each flying session.Parts unknown thats funny very funny I would not enjoy that... Thanks Ivan

ahrma_581 wrote:

SuperDave wrote:Be sure to place a i/4 ounce of weight on the outboard wingtip to keep the plane from coming in to meet you in the center of the circle when it's in flight.

And a bit of right rudder, too, if it's not too late, mmmkay?

It has right rudder if you look closely at the second picture.

deanthree5 wrote:Hey guys I would like to show off my new plane.The plane is my own design,18"span 7oz. before paint.No commercial parts except wheels and the engine... Tell me what you think.

looks good man cant wait to here about the maiden flight

Finish complete, too cold and wet here in Ohio to fly I will post a flight report as soon as possible...

Very nice. I have a plastic version and a ply version of that mount. They are very helpful. Saved many a prop.

Hi Dean welcome to the forum. I'm new here as well and I hope you will enjoy being here as much as I do!
Your plane looks great and I wish you success with it.
Shawn

I flew her today...First flight was ok not enough tail, when I landed I found out why.The cloth hinges I used broke on the inboard side of the elevator.
Being the resourceful flyer I think I am, I made a field repair by cutting a new piece of cloth a drop or two of ca and I was ready to go.While at it I moved the control rod closer to the elevator to give me more throw.Flight started out ok,at lap two started in on a wingover. At the top of the arc I got a little nervous about pull out,I started to feed in up with no responce; I tried more still nothing...long story short it went straight in. The funny part I guess is it went in to the glass top on my patio table shattered shadobby...only a broken prop on the plane
After flight inspection showed what happened when I fixed the hinge,I glued the elevator solid straight.The elevator could only move an 1/8 of and inch or less.Back to the drawing board I guess
I dont have a vid of the flight but I will be back...HOPE.

Be sure to keep glue off of the hinges' moving joints, or it'll break the fabric every time. The unintended wingover says it's tail heavy.
What do you mean by moving the control rod? I'm not sure, but I think pivot of the bellcrank should be pretty near the average C/G point, or not too far behind it. I'll look into that more closely.

RknRusty wrote:Be sure to keep glue off of the hinges' moving joints, or it'll break the fabric every time. The unintended wingover says it's tail heavy.
What do you mean by moving the control rod? I'm not sure, but I think pivot of the bellcrank should be pretty near the average C/G point, or not too far behind it. I'll look into that more closely.

I read that as meaning moving the pushrod closer to the elevator, shortening the elevator horn and increasing elevator movement.

deanthree5 wrote: The funny part I guess is it went in to the glass top on my patio table shattered shadobby...only a broken prop on the plane

You fly on your patio???

Doesn't everybody? (fly off the patio)

Until I learned to throw a rag down in my circle center after I took off on the patio (wife or son release) I would occasionally crash into a lawn chair or picnic table from wandering IN towards the ROG point I used. Small space back yards can be a challenge
I have flown 1/2A as small as 10 foot lines to test a plane in the back or front yard of government quarters. On Fort Hood I had to fly the entire circuit until fuel quit above 7 feet to clear the back fence and did on occasion crash into the fence if the engine quit on wrong side of the circle

Back to the OP...Nice plane and design, I may copy it as I have a 48" piece of 4" wide Airfoil shaped balsa from SIG

Another adjustment you may want to try in order to help maintain line tension is adjust the location of your leadouts on the wingtip. Moving the leadouts rearward, toward the trailing edge, will cant the plane to the outside of the circle giving a little more "line pull". If you do decide to move them, use small increments of 1/4" or so.

andrew

Thanks for all the comments everyone.
No I don't fly on my patio,the table was in the yard; we had just got it out from storage...my wife was not happy with me for sure.
What kind of cloth does everyone use or do you use the ones from a kit?I had a serious fail there and want to fix it first.I do think Rusty is right I was tail heavy but it was flyable.The tails lack of responce after glue was my biggest issue on flight 2.Help please I am really fustrated with the hinges,until this plane I have had no trouble with hinges.

On thes dinky planes I prefer hinges from thread as I almost always make the cloth ones TOO stiff or they break as you experienced

SIG has a fair selection of dope, tissue, and silk ( I prefer to support the older suppliers)

I know you were asking about the "cloth for the hinges" but adding info just in case you desire to explore built up wing designs

Carpet thread in an X over and under patern 1/4 form hinge line works very well and seldom breaks

Search for Kim's posting with pictures on the technique