Sig-ment and Ambroid

That's the way I do it. It's pretty strong, but it won't hold up to a full bore inverted pancake.

Eric. Any chance your fuel proofing was still off gassing? You do know that Sig-Ment needs to be applied to both mating surfaces and left to dry for a minute or so before re-gluing and attached right?

Usually it works well. How old is the tube?

Roddie i have used this in repairs , also this fuse is hollow 1/8" sheet .... Ron the tube is only 9 months old just opened it , no i did not let it pre-set before attaching but had not done that before, had not been doped or sealed yet. It seemed that the second glueing loosened the first glueing before it had set ??//// That was pretty good inverted pancake took me a couple minutes to get that mine was usually nose in first Thanks guys i will try to remember to coat both sides then stick them together Eric

Depends on the angle.

If it noses in or slightly noses in the rear of the fuselage will snap of entirely, taking the stab, rudder and elevator with it. Inverted usually takes the rudder clean off. Along with the canopy. A flat belly pancake can remove gear and snap the leading edge. Sometimes the control rod being thrown forward will remove the feathers.

Think speed and angle, anything that can go forward, up or down, will and with a vengance.

I am an expert at post crash investigation.

I picked a couple of tubes of sigment up the other day at a swap meet. I only have one tube of ambroid left. Just got done glueing up the wings for a Guillows Spitfire with the sigment. I was plesently surprised

Mean old thread LOL I am going to look for some ambroid at the swap coming up will keep U in mine , but I dought it these country boys like the stuff too The sigment was fast like the ambroid and I don't know what happened but I am wiery not ((((( need to get back in there and ck. it out . Eric

Don't forget DUCO! Joe Topper of www.Proctor-enterprises.com recommends it for the fuselage bracing of his Antic models. He also recommends it for the rest of the fleet as well. I like using it if Ambroid not to be had. Sigment works well but dries a little harder than the previous two cements.

Don't know for sure, but I have a sneaking suspicion that this is maybe the same as Ambroid???
Pacific Balsa Cement (Link)
I've been using it for years.  Still manufactured and readily available in Australia.   Don't know if it can ship overseas.
Rod.

Ambroid has been non existent in these parts for about 2 years. I love the stuff actually. It sands beautifully which you don't get with CA. I detest CA and I rarely use it. I hate the stuff personally. One thing I really enjoyed about Ambroid was it's ability to glue center sheeting on. I would liberally apply to the ribs and set the sheet into the cement. Remove the sheet and set aside to dry. The glue shrinks as it dries. This curls the sheeting in the direction of the ribs. Yellow glues do just the opposite. I don't find CA to work well here due to no work time even using slow. Ken

The Pacific Balsa glue has the same effect. Smells nice sorta like dope. Shrinks as it dries. I actually used to attach all my tissue with it rather than dope. (Didn't know any different.) Fuel proof, dries fast & clear and sands well. There were two grades back in the day when Aeroflyte used to make it. C17 was the regular and C23 was high strength. Looks like C23 is all you can get now. Pacific balsa took over the rights to Aeroflyte's products. Has even started to reproduce a couple of kits.

Interesting and informative topic. After all it's the stuff that holds our models together...mostly until they meet an immovable object at speed.

"Sig-ment"- nice play on words SIG. I have never used it, but many years ago all my models went together using Ambriod, then I couldn't find it and went to CA's. First bottle was the expensive stuff at the LHS, about nine bucks. That ran out and I went to the small tube super glues four ea. @ $1.99 at Walmart. Didn't like them at all.

Then someone here mentioned Elmers. I didn't have any, but I did have a couple of varities of Tite-bond wood glue (standard and water resistant). And, hey, this stuff works great. Sets up fast, strong, easy to apply, inexpensive, and it sands better than CA's or epoxy. Both wings on my Aircrate went together using it, the only other glue used in the rebuild was some epoxy to fasten the wing weights.





What's the best glue. The one that works best for you.

I assume that ambroid and sigcement are equivalent to what we know as Humbrol Balsa cement. It has a wonderful smell and was the only glue to use prior to the advent of the specialist CAs.

I use CAs more and more now - I find them useful for tacking parts together to check fits and for hardening balsa edges. I don't use balsa cement any more - I would probably start glue sniffing if I did!

However, I have had many catastrophes with CAs - including burning my fingers!

This product in the UK makes a good CA alternative. Superphatic!!!

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=super+phatic&submit_search=

Now I have a yearning to sniff balsa cement!

I have never used balsa cement as tissue paste. Not sure what shop bought tissue paste is made of but I knew a chap that used to make it with flour, white sugar and a few drops of antiseptic liquid to stop it going mouldy.

For the antiseptic, he used Dettol or white iodine. He once used TCP -NOT RECOMMENDED- this stuff stinks and has a half life of 30 years. You don't need a sniffer dog to track anyone who has dabbed some of this on.