PeeWee woes...

Spring starter and about ~2 volts (worn down 3V), 1.5 just wasn't getting it. The piston/cylinder seems a little tight, could the cox wrench cause that? My dubro clip doesn't seem to like peewee glow plugs, but it does work, works fine on 049s

WingingIt74 wrote:Spring starter and about ~2 volts (worn down 3V), 1.5 just wasn't getting it. The piston/cylinder seems a little tight, could the cox wrench cause that? My dubro clip doesn't seem to like peewee glow plugs, but it does work, works fine on 049s

If the plug is not glowing red at 1.5 that is a problem. The .020 cylinders do tend to get burrs or warped cylinders with rough wrench work and sometimes even if you are being careful.

It may be you have too much friction going on in the cylinder. Check for burrs and lightly file if necessary. A magnifying glass helps when sighting down the bore to check for anomalies. I have had to do that myself after some careful filing and a good long break in they usually come around and spool up to peak again. Keep us posted......

What's the best way to de-bur? I looked in the cylinder but didn't see anything last night. I was thinking of getting a fine stone for the dremel tool and see if that would do it??

"Everything"? Tell what you replaced beside the crank.

I know these engines very well from long experience with them. Throwing parts at a problem is a poor substitute for proper diagnosis.

Have you followed the "trouble shooting guide " from Cox International? Overlooking the obvious is a common source of problems.

You might have another hand look for difficulties. I'd suspect I could find the fault in short-order.

Make sure the reed is not bent.

Check for any air leaks. (venturi, pickup, crankcase, etc)

Be sure your fuel is good.

Cut a small piece of silicone fuel tubing and fit it over the threads of the NV. Put a washer between the NV and the top of the tubing. Air tends to seep in this area if it is not sealed.

WingingIt74 wrote:What's the best way to de-bur? I looked in the cylinder but didn't see anything last night. I was thinking of getting a fine stone for the dremel tool and see if that would do it??

Read my previous post again I edited it. I use a very fine tooth round file. A chainsaw file works well too. You have to be careful!

I highly doubt a fuel delivery issue seeing as you ran 3 tanks through it. If you are running the needle all the way out to start it then you prob have an air leak. Do what Micro said to the needle.

I really suspect a burr or out of round cylinder.

Here is what I did so far:

• Installed Rebuild kit
  
• Made sure fuel passages would allow air flow
  
• Crank tip under drive plate broke so I installed a new one
  
• Drive plate didn't work, so I used one off the other one
  
• Piston tight, won't pass side ports, can't see burs, so tried to de-bur by scraping edges with pocket knife (worked a little)
  
• De-bur with side of drill bit (better success, not as tight, cleaned up with air, visually inspected)
  
• Replaced Glow Plug
  
• Got it run, but not well, needle valve is really touchy, starts on 2.5 turns but runs at 1.75.
  
• Replace Needle
  
• Runs the same
  

I guess I'll try my other tank/backplate to see if anything changes.

Get rid of the spring and use the washer/fuel tubing.

If you are bound up at the exhaust ports that sounds like a burr, since you did all that filing you may just have a warped cylinder. .020 cylinders are somewhat fragile.

Other things to check is the sealing of the glow head. The sealing surface may need a deburring/flattening, use fine grinding paper on flat surface.
Another thing can be the compression ratio. The height of the piston at TDC can vary, it should be just level with the position of the head gasket. If it is too high then shim the cylinder or head.

Poor glow plugs are a little tricky to identify, they can run fine while battery is connected but then give sudden/random loss of power during running without a battery.

cribbs74 wrote:Get rid of the spring and use the washer/fuel tubing.

If you are bound up at the exhaust ports that sounds like a burr, since you did all that filing you may just have a warped cylinder. .020 cylinders are somewhat fragile.

I'll try the other tank first, at least it will give me a direction to go. Would you call what I did filing

Surfer_kris wrote:Poor glow plugs are a little tricky to identify, they can run fine while battery is connected but then give sudden/random loss of power during running without a battery.

Even with the battery connected, it doesn't run right.

Without knowing the engine's history and condition when the replacements were added, the problem described sounds like a distorted cylinder/piston suggesting replacement of same.

Without the engine in hand this is little but speculation.

WingingIt74 wrote:

cribbs74 wrote:Get rid of the spring and use the washer/fuel tubing.

If you are bound up at the exhaust ports that sounds like a burr, since you did all that filing you may just have a warped cylinder. .020 cylinders are somewhat fragile.

I'll try the other tank first, at least it will give me a direction to go. Would you call what I did filing

No, sorry poor choice of words. I have used a drill bit myself. Keep in mind that the piston cylinder fit is extremely close from the get go so even the tiniest burr or warp will have a huge affect. If you haven't already get into some good sunlight with a magnifying glass.

You could transfer pylindar and head from one of your good running Pee wees
and if it fixes problem you know the culprit. john

proctor wrote:You could transfer pylindar and head from one of your good running Pee wees
and if it fixes problem you know the culprit. john

Best advice so far

But sounds like an air leak to me. There is historically a poor seal between back plate and tank Try swapping cyl piston from good running engine its easier If it runs, inspect closely and see whats the culprit

same problem? then then swapping tank and pack plate. Check your gaskets and Buy a 30x loupe for goodness sake

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proctor wrote:You could transfer pylindar and head from one of your good running Pee wees
and if it fixes problem you know the culprit. john

Ah the half split method........ Yep good call. Still think it the cylinder though!

proctor wrote:You could transfer pylindar and head from one of your good running Pee wees
and if it fixes problem you know the culprit. john

WingingIt74 wrote:

proctor wrote:You could transfer pylindar and head from one of your good running Pee wees
and if it fixes problem you know the culprit. john

Anyone here watch New girl w/ ZOOEY DESCHANEL. Now when my lady is sad I speak to her in Silvester voice or is it daffy I forget

I changed the tank, same issue. Runs cold but not hot. I think it's over heating due to the newer crank.

Travis,

This may sound dumb and it's not meant to be insulting but, did you devarnish the cylinder? It would account for the hot running and tight fit.

I devarnished a pee wee tonight and I actually lost compression!

I used 000 steel wool.

Update?

Nothing new. Going down to see Kim tonight to give him the traveling prop. I may take one of the new crankshafts over to the machine shop next door to see if they can match the bearing relief. Either that or find 2 old cranks, one for this engine and one for Jeremy's late Uncle Chris's engine as it was broke when I got it.