Building my first C/L Airplane. Need some help!

Thank you Joe for the information.

The manual tells me to glue the whole plane with epoxy. However I used UHU Hart glue, which holds the plane together very well. But I dont think it will be suitable for the hinges. I am not sure wat the "epoxy" is and where I could buy it.

Also the balsa wing looks a a bit breakable. Is it necessary to harden it with something? Or will the plane get to heavy?

Thank you!

Epoxy is a chemical resin and can be bought in any home depot, or even in drug stores, general retail etc.
It's main advantage as a glue is that it's almost ridiculously strong and practically indestructible.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy

jsesere wrote:Cut 4 1/2" x 1" hinges. Use Epoxy to fasten 2 hinges on the outboard ends of the stabilizer top and one on the outboard elevator bottom to form a z shape. Don't get glue in the center of the hinge. Do the same for the other 2 inboard hinges. Line up the stabilizer and elevator so there is enough room for the elevator to move up and down before the glue sets. I use 5 min Epoxy and work of a piece of wax paper to avoid sticking to the building board.

Here what Joe is talking about...not really to scale, but just the general idea. Epoxy is a two-part glue that only cures when you mix it. I'm sure you can get it there...just maybe by a different name. You FOR SURE ought to use it around the firewall area. Wish I'd sent a couple bottles with your kits, but these days, people get excited about mailing liquids !

Kim you seem better at phot shop graphics ....perhaps you might suggest sewing thread X hinges for the Dewey Bird as an easy alternative and IMO much better on these dinky 1/2A elevators. Cloth hinges, even carefully done just seem way too stiff and caus too much flex in the supplied push rod

Hi, First thing to do is sand a vee shape on the elevator where it is going
to mate up with trailing edge of tailplane, 45degree each side. Cut your
tape into 3/8" wide strips for at least three hinges on each side of elevator.
Epoxy is best but before we had epoxy we used Balsa cement, well rubbed
into fabric hinge and cemented in a Z shape to elevator and tailplane.
Keeping cement out of hinge line. What you are trying to achieve is an
elevator that will drop under it's own weight and a nice close hinge line.
Pretty sure the glue you have been using is Balsa cement. If it is go ahead
and use it for your taped hinges. John

IMO, the hinges pictured appear to me to be rather wide for the application.

Personally I use narrower hinge material and attach them to the stab and ele with thin CA cement.

Works for me.

fredvon4 wrote:Kim you seem better at phot shop graphics ....perhaps you might suggest sewing thread X hinges for the Dewey Bird as an easy alternative and IMO much better on these dinky 1/2A elevators. Cloth hinges, even carefully done just seem way too stiff and caus too much flex in the supplied push rod

I'll take a shot at it...just didn't want to flood in too much info on a first project. I do love stitched hinges. They can easily outlast the life of the plane, but require a bit more "manipulation". I add mine after the plane and it's surfaces are totally painted and finished. If you don't like their appearance, they can be "hidden in plain sight" by painting black boxes over them.

Once the plane is finished, scotch tape the two surfaces together as they will be in use. Mark three holes on either side of the hinge line, and drill them through with a small bit (1/16th or less), or you can just push the needle through. Using a sewing needle, threaded with carpet thread, sew them together using a figure 8 pattern, gently drawing out the slack as you go. The needle should go through the hinge line and into the opposite side on each pass, never going straight across the top or bottom.

Once the individual hinge is finished, CAREFULLY place a drop of CA at each spot where the thread goes through the surface...NOT getting any in the hinge line. Some glue will wick down the thread to the hinge line, but will usually break loose easily and get better with use.

I always put one set of hinges right next to the control horn to help it move the surface squarely.

Whew! That's it...hope it wasn't a total bore!

SuperDave wrote:IMO, the hinges pictured appear to me to be rather wide for the application.

Personally I use narrower hinge material and attach them to the stab and ele with thin CA cement.

Works for me.

Yeah, I should have been clearer on that. The hinges actually ought to be about half the width shown...getting "Computer Punchy" here...

Kim: "getting "Computer Punchy" here...

Not to worry pal. Happens to me quite regularly!!!!!

Kim that is as good as the article I learned the technique from 45 years ago in some unknow magizine or club newsletter/flyer

Great job!

We should have a sticky area for these type how to's, hints, and ideas

Ahhhh!

Now I know what I did wrong. Those pics cleared it up for me Kim. I ended up cutting mine out and went with cut down easy hinges. Next time though I can get it right.

Fred,

There was a build tips thread in the modeling sextion once upon a time.

fredvon4 wrote:Kim that is as good as the article I learned the technique from 45 years ago in some unknow magizine or club newsletter/flyer

Great job!

We should have a sticky area for these type how to's, hints, and ideas

Thank you! The sucker was FULL of typos though, which I've fixed...mostly...

cribbs74 wrote:Ahhhh!

Now I know what I did wrong. Those pics cleared it up for me Kim. I ended up cutting mine out and went with cut down easy hinges. Next time though I can get it right.

Fred,

There was a build tips thread in the modeling sextion once upon a time.

Yeah... I should have added that it's a good idea to practice on some scrap balsa first.

I'll cut and paste it over on the Model Building Section.