Cox powered boat litle shrimp hidroplane

Good sourcing David,
Lets hope the drive line can stay together with IC.

The bottom of the hull looks great. Will be interesting
what a reed engine can make happen with it.

1/2A Nut wrote:Good sourcing David,
Lets hope the drive line can stay together with IC.

The bottom of the hull looks great. Will be interesting
what a reed engine can make happen with it.

In fact in the photo I put the reed valve motor for the flywheel. but I think I'm not using this engine only the flywheel in the photo. If I use one with a reed valve it would probably be one with a pullstarter which will be modified with a more efficient cylinder possible ' such as a texaco modified cylinder or a no1 black widow or golden bee cylinder with a smaller Spi. I could also install a tee dee but I haven't made a decision yet I think a simple motor with a reed valve might be sufficient For this boat hull. I think that ideally it would be better to copy the hull and make a lighter, but more fragile one ....but I think that my technique for copying hull would allow me to build very light and strong once reinforce inside with balsa The little  joint that I found seems perfect to me and will certainly be effective in reducing shock on the engine crankchaft... And something that I forgot in the photo is the two bearings that will be placed behind the flexible joint on the flexible cable to eliminate any vibration coming from the cable. The system that I planned was to eliminate any vibration problem and should in principle allow the cables to shrink and extend freely without putting pressure on the motor directly  
I will take more photos of this during manufacturing. For the small shrimp I think I will make it smaller and narrower and lighter I even considered using a light ruder fin made of plastic To save on weight but first I'll see what happens     Currently I am impatient to finish the tiger moth after seeing a guy on youtube who was building the foker and finish the construction of this model at over 60g with a smaller dimension than mine and electric less efficient and heavier which seemed to fly well ....then my model at 60g will surely be faster and more precise and have better control with the elerons I still expect an incredible result with a more than perfect weight for a .010 tee dee , surely the plane will be very efficient despite the extra weight ....ok... Back to our boat now today I received a package let's say that I wasn't expecting to receive it packaged like this .... when I took it out of the mailbox I thought I had received a book ??? or I didn't know what it was when I opened the package I found this wouhou yes

Now I have everything to start building this little shrimp The 10 servo motors were really cheap and super fast shipping with Amazon Prime those cost me 45$ canadiens Which means that each servo costs me less than $5 each, a really good deal in my opinion for servos of this quality with metal gear Here are the specs

will use one for the small shrimp and probably others on car projects to replace the servo of my gtp and other truck or rc car for the shrimp it is more of a test I want to try waterproof this servo if it works well I'm going to save a fortune on water resistant servos

I cant wait untill the test video's

Let us know the weight of the hull when you do the 2nd one for IC conversion.
I may get one to if the weight is reasonable with existing strut, rudder, turn fin.

1/2A Nut wrote:Let us know the weight of the hull when you do the 2nd one for IC conversion.
I may get one to if the weight is reasonable with existing strut, rudder, turn fin.  

 

With pleasure I'm going to take the weight mesure I intend to order just the hull of the boat I will keep a complete electro for Niko m'y My 5 year old boy ...But be patient, I intend to reproduce some more affordable copy of this boat, obviously I am going to make some small modifications to accommodate the Cox engine, I am waiting for the temperatures to be
Warmer to start the manufacture of a first prototype I can make it very light and you can finish it painting and all the rest it would be a simple empty shell I have some similar project in progress
As the hull of the boat is somewhat expensive I don't know if it comes with the runig hardware strut, rudder, turn fin ?? And wonder if I can find the same piece separately or something similar When I get the second one we'll know exactly If for $89 the boat hull comes withrunig hardware strut, rudder, turn fin I would be surprised But in any case the drive shaft will have to be longer and replace

Tagging along how do you plan to water proof the servos ?

getback wrote:  Tagging along how do you plan to water proof the servos ?

I'm going to try it with a dip the circuit board in .silicone.  conformal coating and smal oring seal under servo horn use silicone Where the wire comes out of the servo And corrosion x on the potentiometer

getback wrote:  Tagging along how do you plan to water proof the servos ?

I was curious about this too.. after David first mentioned it, so I posed the question on YouTube. Several vids came up.. but the most interesting one was from a guy who builds RC model submarines. He said that most servos "sold as waterproof" are actually only splash-proof and not meant for submersion. He waterproofs his servos with a few steps similar to what David mentions.. but the most interesting one is to completely fill the inside of the servo with "olive oil". The olive oil is a non-conductive insulator which eliminates the pressure-differential between the inside and outside of the servo-case when submerged.

Granted; this might be overkill for a servo that won't normally experience submergence.. but it's some extra insurance in the case that your vessel capsizes.

Thanks roddie for sharing the video It's an interesting idea I know that oil is used in large transformers on electrical lines and that certain oil types can be used with current without any problem of conductivity. The oil is a very good way to protect against water and corrosion And of course in the case of a boat. filling servo with oil I think would be one of the best way to do it but if the servo seal is well sealed the water should not enter the waterproof servo. The process that I use is different i use silicone. conformal coating on the bord inside corrosion x on the motor and potentiometer oring on the servo horn and silicone To seal casing Do it similar but using a silicone rather than epoxy allowing me to change parts or recover components to repair