Prop Rod engine screws and restoration

I do believe that the use of those “old” nylon TF props is NOT recommended. They have a nasty habit of breaking apart while running and throwing sharpe pieces at anyone in harms way.  If you’re just going for a static display they are ok, but just don’t run them.

My 2 cents worth...

Your restoration of the engine looks GREAT!

I have some Cox 6×3 props I can use to run the motor. I usually run my models at least once after resto just for fun.

bottomgun wrote:Engine is completed. I also had an original nut and spinner in the original packaging that I'm going to use, together with the old Top Flite Prop that came with the car.

That really looks great.  Really nice job.  I like the correct period parts too.

I tend to do the same also, keep the previous owners propeller with the engine.

Bob

I actually did run the motor with the TF prop just once yesterday and made like a 15 second video with my phone. I don't know how to upload it to the site though.

The forum has no video upload privilege, most likely because storage space costs money, and videos take up a lot of space. However, it has ability to show a link where you uploaded it (I.e., YouTube, Vimeo, your Google Drive, etc.)

And, comments on to be extra cautious, not to reuse old age nylon props was substantiated in the last batches of the Top Flite classic white nylon props with the red silk screened markings. They all came with a sticker specifying how to rehydrate them for use and storage, and to retire old and cracked props.

AFAIK, they develop microscopic cracks whilst age drying out weakening their structure. They are hydroscopic, contain water moisture. It was the strangest thing for me to hear, why plastic would need water? Apparently so, one would put them in boiling water to rehydrate them.

APC and Masters here in US became the main staple, being glass filled plastic props, which did not have the problems natural nylon had. However, I loved Top Flite and Tornado nylon props, because they were very inexpensive. Although they needed to be balanced, were nearly indestructible in use, able to handle prangs from dirt and grass strikes often with very little damage. If a tip got excessively nicked up, I'd trim off equally a small amount of the propeller tips, rebalance and reuse.

Even with their weaknesses, I considered them a Godsend, for the budget minded sport flyer. I was disappointed when manufacturing of them stopped completely.

TF nylon props were the most common replacement units for our motors in my day from our local hobby shop. It will be used for display only though. Even Cox International advised me to boil the factory 6-3 props I got from them because of potential brittleness due to age.

Got my decals in this evening and applied them using a soapy water mix to make them easier to position. The front hood decal took some patience to get smoothed out, but it worked out and I'm satisfied with how it turned out.

I have this one in use for long time and it never lost its Flexibility
Think i have one stored in a box of difrent cox stuf But is not transparent and flexible like this one is It's my spare and somtime the first prop For the first flight after building a new rc model Just in case Something is wrong and I have to make an emergency landing.I prefer the master airscrew 6x3 and it a bit hard To Find one

bottomgun wrote:Got my decals in this evening and applied them using a soapy water mix to make them easier to position. The front hood decal took some patience to get smoothed out, but it worked out and I'm satisfied with how it turned out.

Those decals do look good! Are they waterslide or vinyl? Where did you get them? off E-bay? Thanks.

They are vinyl sticky back decals. I got them off Ebay from a seller who  doesn't actually make them, but bought the inventory off the the individual that did and is no longer producing them. I have the link for you. There are three sets to choose from and your choice of number.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/THIMBLE-DROME-PROP-ROD-DECAL-SETS-CHOOSE-YOURS-PRICE-REDUCED/185276924623?pageci=0d537270-5081-44b2-8317-20b7390a478a&redirect=mobile

bottomgun wrote:Got my decals in this evening and applied them using a soapy water mix to make them easier to position. The front hood decal took some patience to get smoothed out, but it worked out and I'm satisfied with how it turned out.

Nice, I see a museum quality restoration taking place, excellent work, bottomgun. I remember seeing the prop rods of the 1960's and 1970's at the military base exchange Toyland sections and off-base, various other departments stores. They were such beautiful eye candy.

Thanks. I'll be doing the final assembly later today.

The TF props give that vintage look to display engines and models that I like.
The not so pristine TF props that I would like to run are boiled for a few minutes in water that I have added a small amount of red Ritz dye.
The dye gives the props a ruby red color and it also serves to keep me from forgetting which are rehydrated and ready to go.
FWIW

All finished!

Excellent job on a very desirable model. What did you use to remove the original decals?

The hood decal was an old water transfer and I easily scraped it off with my thumbnail. The rear ovals were adhesive backed stickers. I used Testors plastic model paint remover on each and let them soak for about 20 minutes. It was still difficult to remove and I still used my thumbnail. If I can avoid it, I don't use tools like plastic scrapers or scrub pads so I don't mar the plastic.

Yes excellent restoration, very nicely done
Here's part of a post from member Mudhen I copied and saved concerning this model prop Rod

That version of the Prop Rod is referred to a the "Gold Leaf" Prop Rod. The name refers to the gold leaf decal on the hood. (That's not an official name. It's the name given by collectors.)
Mud

Very nice job!! The canopy looks perfect. I did one too, the nacelle on mine was glued on and very hard to replace. The hard plastic polishes up nice. I might have an old prop for these, I will look in my stuff.

before



after

Beautiful job BG, and CB I have always admired your Prop Rod and couldn't imagine why I didn't have one.  I have been reading this thread with envy, so I went looking.  

Every Prop Rod that I have ever looked at on ebay was way too nice, until this morning I stumbled on this one:





Not so nice but just my speed.  $80 BIN.  Here next week.  Early model, metal pan, thin wall, large head needle, tapered case BB.

Nice early yellow model! About 1956?

The very first Cox model I was given by Dad was one identical to yours in 1960. Ran it in the street, many laps. LOL
Not sure when they changed but the early yellow had a smooth pan. Somewhere along the line they added ribs.

Early pan