Separate tank for peewee 0.020

fit90 wrote:Kim,

I appreciate the pic of your Golden Bee using an external tank Pictures are truly worth a thousand words. Is that an AD rivet plugging the vent line on the Bee's tank? Clever!

Bob

Thanks ! Yep, asked an aviation sheet-metal artist / friend of mine if he might have a couple to spare, and got handed a hand-full of rivets of different lengths and diameters!

It pays to have friends in aviation places !!!

Kim,

I don't remember where but you had mentioned earlier that you were looking for a way to build a Q-Tee with interchangable firewalls. I had done it once before by building the fuse according to the plans, cutting away most of the firewall, leaving only about 1/4" around the perimeter and a small triangular protrusion in the corners and installing a rivnut in the triangular protrusions. Then make a new firewall with appropriately sized cutouts over the rivnuts and just screw the new firewall in place. A small gasket between the old and new firewall might keep yours from suffering the fuel soaked fate mine did.

Bob

You can buy the harder clear plastic tube is basicly IV drip line tube. It will grip the wee lil fuel fill nipples and will allow the use of this tank for those who wish to forgo the large plastic tank for a all metal look. I used a short piece to allow use of the typical half A line. There is the opption to hide an additional tank hindden in the fueslage you can get away with long run times.
How many cc's does the Pee Wee tank hold?
One memeber mentioned a 2cc capacity approx 2mins run time.

So say 1.5m with a TD yet the additional fuel loaded in the feeder tubes perhaps with a dialed in needle a launch can happen right away and give you 2mins in the air.  
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M38HyKCXZO4

This is a peppy flight with the pee wee 18k to 24k in a dive. Shows typical run time yet running tad rich.

You did a really good job on that engine. Could you elaborate on what you did to prep the tank?

Sure
Cut out plastic or steel stock or double up in reeds till you stop the function, should be snug to the retainer stiff material.  
- can block the air intake - a fast temp non destructive way is dap a tad of silicon over the screen
 can be rub off later if need be. Otherwise remove the screen and epoxy it up for good.
- can perhaps epoxy the reed down prior to adding the clip as well.

Use a small piece of tubing placed over the fuel nipple inside the tank and block off the tube end as short as you can make it. Epoxy plug the nipple if you know you want to keep this set up to gain a tad more fuel vol.

The key to pulling any of this off is the use of the clear 1/2A tube due to it's tight fit over the feeder ports and must be used to grip once on never remove its poor to re grip quick. I have found nothing else works thus far
- Can use just small bits of clear to allow the use silicon 1/2A tubing.
- Can press on brass tubes or perhaps tap in threaded tube to extend these.
One nipple could be blocked (or if a single nipple backplate a dab of epoxy the breather hole prior) adding tank tap on top to breath.
- Can drill and press fit a tube at the top of the back plate

This set up is not meant for extended inverted flight but can do some acro and running around.
When mounting the engine can rotate to the right some to have the feeder tube to the needle at its lowest position for verted last drops of fuel.

Could use the aluminum mounts sold on ebay and back to back they provide more fuel vol. note both insets provide additional room for fuel. You just need to source some threaded nipples to tap into the top and bottom. Can add a 1/4 thick rubber gasket for more vol. would need 1in long bolts. Stock screws shown.

Thanks for that detailed writeup. It looks like something that is very easily doable. Good stuff!

Ron