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Chrome plating crankcase Empty Chrome plating crankcase

Post  crankbndr Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:30 pm

Anyone ever experiment with chrome on the Cox crankcase, thinking of ways to harden the crank bushing?
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Post  andrew Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:00 pm

Type II anodizing would probably be more effective, easier and much less expensive than chrome plating. Anodizing lays down a layer of aluminum oxide which grows into the surface and out of the surface and is harder than untreated aluminum. Chrome is plated, consequently it can peel. It is harder that Type II, but also harder to apply.

I've considered anodizing a few cases, polishing the cranks to a mirror finish then working in with white polishing compound to see if I can reduce friction.

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Post  crankbndr Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:28 pm

Been spinning the cranks in the case with polishing compound and it seems to help.
I screw a prop stud in the crank and chuck it in a dremmel or drill.
They spin nice and free after.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:15 pm

crankbndr wrote:Been spinning the cranks in the case with polishing compound and it seems to help.
I screw a prop stud in the crank and chuck it in a dremmel or drill.
They spin nice and free after.
That answers the question I asked a couple of weeks ago. I cross posted at RCG and was told to use Turtle rubbing compound instead of valve lapping compound. I want to make two identical Killer Bees for the two Com Bats I got for Christmas.

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Post  crankbndr Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:48 pm

I didnt post a few weeks ago because I dont know if im doing more harm than good.
My BW case is already shot after about 20 runs. Going after the air leaks really helps,
lap the tank to the backplate with the same compound, shorten screws a little to make sure
backplate pulls up tight. Good silicone gasket for venturi and seal backplate screws with RTV.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:58 pm

crankbndr wrote:...My BW case is already shot after about 20 runs....
I run my BWs pretty hard and they keep going. What kind of problems is your crankcase having after 20 runs?

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Post  crankbndr Tue Feb 07, 2012 9:04 pm

The crank bushing is worn, been using 50 syn 50 castor think im going back to all castor.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Feb 07, 2012 9:27 pm

Are you running high compression heads? I can see that causing faster wear, though a lot of people do it.

I'm blaming my glowplug problems on SIG fuel with 50% Klotz/50% Castor. In all of my reedies, they quit glowing after a few runs. Especially if they sit overnight. I spray them off with alcohol and they light up again. But it gets worse every time until they won't even restart hot, and I've retired a few of them. I bagged and tagged them for future inspection.

It hasn't happened in the Tee Dees so far, they seem to love the SIG fuel. When I use Glowplugboy fuel with 100% castor the reedies run much smoother and have no other problems. I can't think of any other explanation, but no one else on any forums reports that problem. Strange.

The SIG is so slick and oily it makes a greasy mess of the while plane. No more for the Bees, but I'll stick with it for the rotaries.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Feb 07, 2012 9:48 pm

RknRusty wrote:Are you running high compression heads? I can see that causing faster wear, though a lot of people do it.

I'm blaming my glowplug problems on SIG fuel with 50% Klotz/50% Castor. In all of my reedies, they quit glowing after a few runs. Especially if they sit overnight. I spray them off with alcohol and they light up again. But it gets worse every time until they won't even restart hot, and I've retired a few of them. I bagged and tagged them for future inspection.

It hasn't happened in the Tee Dees so far, they seem to love the SIG fuel. When I use Glowplugboy fuel with 100% castor the reedies run much smoother and have no other problems. I can't think of any other explanation, but no one else on any forums reports that problem. Strange.



The SIG is so slick and oily it makes a greasy mess of the while plane. No more for the Bees, but I'll stick with it for the rotaries.

Rusty,

That is strange,

I have run my BW with only SIG champion since it was new. I bought it in 1992. I still have the original head on it. I have only run it on 15% so maybe that's the reason?

Dunno........
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Post  Mark Boesen Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:29 pm

Polish up the crank to a nice chrome like shine, maybe hit it with a Dremel to lighten it, but I think it would probably be best to keep any compound away from the case, its gonna wear and by lapping it, its gonna wear more.
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