Scientific Mr. Mulligan CL for 1/2A … Plans

"Building ( recreating) Scientific CL models from the past "

Me too, GP I cut my teeth on them. A favorite was the Scientific "hollow log" Little Bipe. I'm sure it was my only "fly-away" now wasting away somewhere in the woods of New Hampshire. But I still have the plans.



Thankfully Black Hawk models recreates them (still I think) and I have squirreled away several of them.



But my point is, seems it would be simple to recreate Mr Mulligan as a hollow log too. The profile favors it. Some 1/4" soft balsa sheet and triangle stock and your there.

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:
Thankfully Black Hawk models recreates them (still I think) and I have squirreled away several of them.

Sad to say, I think they're long gone.  No evidence of a website and all those who were selling them have now switched to other brands.  Never did get my Phantom kit

Bob, little Bipe’s just so COOL !!!  ( we're going to copy your plan pic , if you don’t mind  )  
  Old rod , the old model kit stuff is getting hard to find … as a kid they  were in every toy and model, hardware store …  even the Rexall

  I asked about fuel at the LHS , they said they no longer sell fuel ..

gentlemen , since I’m new to the site and don’t know the social protocalls , I just keep pressing the green Thumbs up button because I’m so Thankful to have somebody to talk about this with … Youngsters don’t have a clue … They can’t even trim out a 10 cent glider ( you know )
Hope I’m not over doing it …

Go ahead and overdo it. No problem there. Tell me where to get the $0.10 gliders!!! Not here at the $4 Dollarama.

GPW wrote:Bob, little Bipe’s just so COOL !!!  ( we're going to copy your plan pic , if you don’t mind  )  
  Old rod , the old model kit stuff is getting hard to find … as a kid they  were in every toy and model, hardware store …  even the Rexall  

  I asked about fuel at the LHS , they said they no longer sell fuel ..

I just PM'd you two page of the full sized plans. If they don't come out, let me know.

Bob

Bob,
Nice group of kits you have there. I would like to get a Mr. Muligan kit too, but it has alluded me for a while now.
I have the Scientific Stuka, Cessna 185, and the Zig Zag but the last two are factory sealed and I don't want to touch them.
So the Stuka may get built first.
Like everyone here knows, 1/2a kits are getting pretty scarce of late. I thought I had found a Sterling Spad kit at a flea market two weeks ago but upon opening it was nothing but scrap leftover balsa from the build so no buy.
Last week I reorganized my kit storage closet and two other shelves and found the mentioned Scientific kits that I forgot I had.
I quit counting at 50 kits mostly RC balsa. Only a few duplicates and a number from UK., Japan, Germany, and Belgium.
Love old kits that I remember at the LHS as a kid but couldn't afford.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood ……
Steve....

‘speed , I think the 10 cent glider is only a sweet memory now … hahahaha

Bob , Big THANKS for the Lil Bipe plans ... We’ll try to stick them together into a .pdf Curious how small these planes really were…

Steve , you Lucky guy , never too late !!!

So we’re down to the motor mounts , and the finish … using what I have the plan is to paint the windows and numbers in enamel (that we have) , and then once dry , coat the whole plane with as many thinned coats of polyurethane as makes a decent finish … Might turn out to be as heavy as a stone , but with all that power , I’m only worried it will be Too FAST ..

And while we were sitting around on the computer .. I made a drawing of Foam wings we’ve made in the past ( for RC) that would work fine for Control Line and be very easy ( and thrifty) to make … Turns out they’re very Strong too … especially if you use a plastic “skinned Foam “ known as Fan Fold Foam ( FFF ) or floor underlayment … It’s ~ 1/4” thick . ( same as Most “ meat trays “ from the grocery )

And not to mention you could knock out a number of "Combat wings” in a single evening … 

Pretty easy to make a symmetrical airfoil too , just block up the LE and TE appropriately and weight the center spar till the glue dries …  Or you can  heat bend the  foam to shape and just glue the two halves together on a foam spar … Waay quicker than Balsa as you can use Hot Glue …

For more info on heat bending foam wings … https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?251262-Bendfoam%21%21%21&highlight=Bendfoam+gpw

I still have a plan to use that method on a Primary Force .40 size stunter that was given to me after a crash. Kind of a heartbreaking first flight when the motor quit and it crashed destroying the wing. I picked up a damaged package of the blue fanfold at Lowes just when they stopped stocking it. I think a thick wood spar with a slot for the bellcrank will work. It should be strong enough for an LA .40. Not sure how heavy a 1/2A wing would turn out with the blue stuff. Should be good. Tough anyway.

More pics …  got the motor mounts in and motor fitted … coming along now …

Now need a wedge tank … Perfect still in business ???

Well then , that was easy , I pushed the button … https://www.ebay.com/itm/264104788492

GPW wrote:  Well then , that was easy , I pushed the button …      https://www.ebay.com/itm/264104788492

I don't think Perfect is still in business. I have many of the things and was about to offer up one when I saw this response. Glad you found one. But some here are not big fans of them especially the wedgies. I keep yelling - build them into the fuselage but few listen.



I like your organization. My work bench generally looks like a cyclone hit it after a build be it plane, car, or whatever. Seems like I use every tool in the shop. roddie, Kim, and others here too. We like work bench photos.

Your build looks great.

Bob

Nice tank. $2.43, and $34.30 shipping. LOL.

Speed , years ago , that would have been a fortune !!! Today it's just “the cost of re-living our youth” …. hahahaha

Bob, that tank mount sure is interesting (makes sense huh ) … could you explain it a little more please … ?

Looking at that picture ^ , the Tee Dee sure looks LARGE for the plane …

Bob, is spot on with his tank when using them on a profile. Reason this works well is that the pickup is inline with the spraybar nipple ( Top view which he depicts) However, this is a experiment as well due to tank requiring side to side adjustments due to centrifugal force. Unless allowances are made, the tank can't be shimmed up or down if required. Tank mounting in this fashion can complicate matters due to it possibly requiring vertical and horizontal adjustments. I'm not suggesting in anyway this is not a good idea. It's a great way to do it, just be prepared for what I'm writing. Most on this forum don't fly maneuvers other than some inversion or loops. When your flying overhead maneuvers or outside maneuvers, the last thing you want is the engine to go rich due to having the tank low to start with. Wedge shaped tanks are disliked because that's the most readily available tank to purchase. When it doesn't work, it's automatically suggested the tank is the problem when it's really it's position.

          When used on a TD for instance, the wedge due to it's outboard protrusion when mounted on a PROFILE places the pickup too far outboard. TD's unlike a Medallion have a larger venturi which impedes fuel draw. Keeping the fuel load a constant with the TD is imperative.  Having a wedge mounted conventionally to the side of a profile automatically places the engine run in a lean condition due to it having to draw fuel a longer distance. The wedge would work just fine when mounted as Bob shows. Due to the rather narrow fuselages of 1/2A's though it does weaken the front end. Full bodied planes don't suffer this issue other than vertical tank height adjustments. They draw fuel more adequately as well due to the pickup being directly behind the engine therefore making the length of the fuel tubing shorter.

        When one starts flying maneuvers such as outsides and overhead inversion, the engine run is extremely important. Keeping the fuel load in the tank corner is imperative and this requires a lot of experimentation. For those that fly a occasional roundy round flight once or twice a month my advice is a non issue. But I have already seen the carnage and the questions get raised as to why did it do this or that. If the pickup tube isn't in the corner, it works until the head pressure of the fuel load begins to decrease and the engine begins starving for fuel.

     I sound like a broken record but if you don't open up the tank, your asking for a crash. The tubing that Perfect uses is not seamless, so if you do a pressure test prior to use, it may pass. However, that being said, as time goes on due to vibration, the tubing splits internally and this can't be recognized from a pressure test. Perfect does not locate their pickup tubes in ANY of their tanks by soldering the rear of it where it terminates at the back of the tank. So when some suggest I have never felt the need to adjust the height of a tank, this is because they lack the knowledge of why and what to do. The pickup tube heights within these tanks can be anywhere and can vary as much as 1/4" from one tank to another even though they're the same. In addition to the pickup tube, the overflow vent is anyone's guess as to where it terminates. It might not even go to the top of the tank which is going to short tank the overall capacity. I have witnessed them being very short from the top inside of the tank requiring it to be heated and slid up. Again, some feel this isn't important but if your flying a twin it can be very helpful.

        Reworking a tank is very simple. But, like anything else it takes experience. NO torches as this just loosens every joint on the tank. It can also burn off the critical plating on the tank. It can be done, but the flame can't be direct contact. Perfect tanks were and still are built on a hot plate. They're placed on them and small solder pellets are placed on top of them. The problem with that is the solder used works but it's anybody's guess as for how long. One should inspect the end caps for fishmouthing and any pinholes and contamination where solder didn't take. A good scarifying and cleaning with lacquer thinner will allow new solder to properly take to the clean metal.

Here's a short clip from a few years ago. This is what happens when the tank is mounted too far inboard. In level flight, the engine run goes rich due to the fuel load. In order to combat this, I could've launched leaner but in the maneuvers, it would've gone over lean. I resolved this by moving the tank further outboard and no longer have this crazy engine run. https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/videos/vb.513140418756097/690683584335112/?type=2&theater

66 Malibu wrote:Bob,
Nice group of kits you have there. I would like to get a Mr. Muligan kit too, but it has alluded me for a while now.
I have the Scientific Stuka, Cessna 185, and the Zig Zag but the last two are factory sealed and I don't want to touch them.
So the Stuka may get built first.
Like everyone here knows, 1/2a kits are getting pretty scarce of late. I thought I had found a Sterling Spad kit at a flea market two weeks ago but upon opening it was nothing but scrap leftover balsa from the build so no buy.
Last week I reorganized my kit storage closet and two other shelves and found the mentioned Scientific kits that I forgot I had.
I quit counting at 50 kits mostly RC balsa. Only a few duplicates and a number from UK., Japan, Germany, and Belgium.
Love old kits that I remember at the LHS as a kid but couldn't afford.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood ……
Steve....

Dude,
When you crack those highly desire le kits open, do us all a favor:
Trace all parts full size and save as a PDF.
Scan the decals full size and save as PDF full size.
Scan all parts if the plansheet. Do this in sections and save as jpg so the separate sections can be stitched back into one sheet and saved as a PDF.
Make bucks of the plastic parts so they can be recreated.

To date, I have the Scientific Super Mustang (24.5" WS profile), Scientific P-40 (21.25" profile), BHMs reproduction of Scientific's Challenger, BHMs Electra L-10. All have been digitized.
Also contact Dave Cowell of DPC Models. He kits Reproductions of a bunch of unobtainiums. Find my boys' Typhoon and FW-190 by him here or RCGroups. Dave may like to add them to his catalog.
Oh, and I like to trade my scans for yours!

Wow!!! Great idea Jim ….sharing scans/tracings would allow many old planes to be built again …

Thanks for the explanation Ken !!!

GPW wrote:  Speed , years ago , that would have been a fortune !!!  Today it's just “the cost of re-living our youth” …. hahahaha

Bob, that tank mount sure is interesting (makes sense huh )  …  could you explain it a little more please … ?

  Looking at that picture ^  , the Tee Dee sure looks LARGE for the plane …

Ken is a professional and knows what he is doing. I just slapped the wedgie in keeping it level with the plane of the fuselage and even with the NVA and hoped for the best. Turned out fine as this plane flies great for me but not so great for my son. I flew the wheels off it in the '70/80's and it was flown again late last year.

It has an Enya .15 on it GP.

Label it experimental as the wing is the horizontal stab from an R/C plane that I screwed into the ground. It's squirrelly to fly as the flaps and elevator are ganged to the throttle. Full up is full throttle and visa versa. NOT a serious airplane but a change from normal and fun to fly.




BTW, a Quillows Spad was the first model that I ever built when I was around ten or eleven. I found this complete in the box example several years ago. I painted it just like the box. It's image is burned into my memory.



Keeping it.