Modelling clay - Got a better idea?

Marleysky wrote:Its a 31 minute road trip from Capon Bridge to Winchester ( isn’t that one of your favorite rifles?)

Yes, the 94/22 especially.

Hobby Lobby, I visit frequently. Looks like I will have to make a trip.

Recently roddie did a post on graph lined paper graduated in one quarter inch. Rod and Kari took exception advocating the advantages of the metric system.

I thought of your "Fighting the Metric system every inch of the way."

Me too..........

Bob

KariFS wrote:How about some self-adhesive plastic material placed with the sticky side up?

Of course, if it is too sticky, the parts may break again when removed

Hi Kari,

Yeah, I need something two dimensional due to the depth variations of the struts and something that will release easily. I could use shims, but there are so many broken pieces to contend with.

The good news, I found the missing piece.

Bob

Pretty neat Mark, never heard of the stuff. If modelling clay doesn't work, I'm looking into it.

Wear gloves the peanut gallery says.

Bob

I looked at two of the Blue Stuff videos Mark and it sure works for small parts.  I don't know how it would do for the struts unless it could be laid perfectly flat.  I think Jason's printer is the solution.

I did not remove the Aurora's reed, too chicken.  I want to run it first before I mess anything up.  But it does look that the Cox reed would work.  

I got to thinking about Kari's proposal to use tape as a securing source.  I thought, double sided sticky tape on a raised surface buffered by wax paper might do in lieu of clay.  I didn't want to drive 60 miles round trip to get it either.  

Even with a securing source it's an effort to align all the parts.  I tried one as a test using a newly opened tube of Permatex CA which did fine on the first parts I glued but didn't on this one.  So I switched to Plastruct Weld which is curing now.  

The other strut is really smashed but it has the control line guides so I will have to fix it too, or Jason could have just molded two of the less damaged strut.





The three break strut turned out fine, the six break not so. Thinking........

fredvon4 wrote:Given the fragility of the plastic strut structure, I gather that probably not many of these aircraft survived more than one flight.


my initial thought before we see the shipping carnage...back when Bob was jazzed waiting on his new toy

Yes, My stated - This Aurora SE5A blows away all plastic model airplanes I have seen for detail and construction....but at a price.  It is fragile as evidenced by the amount of stress cracks I have found.

But the fuselage is mostly done and the wings are healing under all that weight.  Red tube Testors cement properly applied and allowed to cure works wonders.  







Eager to start on that undercarriage.  A springy thingy

Thanks for the tips roddie. I have those bamboo skewers and they are strong and have used them in a couple of my builds. But I have faith in Jason's ability to print these struts if I do my part and provide him with viable examples.

Which with this one is beginning to be a problem.



I have learned that you should not apply Testors cement over previously repaired CA joints, doesn't hold. I may have to strip all the connections and start over. This type of rigid plastic does not take adhesives like other plastics.

Unfortunately the only way I was going to learn this was to "cut and try" Kelly Johnson style.