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Post  Marleysky Wed Feb 20, 2019 6:56 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Ok guys, where are we at?

Anybody building anything? Any more people interested in joining in?

Let’s keep the interest going!

Ron

I think the Dr. Has beem working on one or two...https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12657-65-corvette#162439

Ive bought a couple of things on E bay that’ll need some epoxy and paint to look presentable.
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Post  NEW222 Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:30 pm

Yes, I have my home built car from plans.
[img]cars are the stars - The Cars are the Stars Contest. - Page 3 C210[/img]
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:59 pm

So I didn’t mention it before, I contacted Matt and Bernie about prizes for the event. They are both willing however, they were concerned about participation. In the past many either didn’t participate or pulled out at the end.

I would like to see max participation before I pull the trigger and hit them up again for prizes.

Ron
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Post  NEW222 Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:29 pm

I'm definitely in for whatever category of fun you decide I will fit in! Very Happy I'm almost tempted to put skiis on this thing!
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Post  Jason_WI Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:01 am

Ron,

I’ll donate these 3D printed goodies to the cause. Cox 3 D cell battery insert with the Cox battery graphic from Levent. A set of TD display stands, Nylon postage stamp mount, and if I can get it working, a Pee Wee .020 horseshoe back plate. Eyebrows

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Post  rsv1cox Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:23 am

With Jason's help I have Ol' #2 rebuilt and ready to go.

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Front suspension is a little loosy goosy just have to adjust the tie rods a bit. Added the tether and driver last week. Give me ten minutes and we ready for May first and Le Mans.

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Post  getback Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:56 am

I am in with a prop rod just have to finish the engine mount got 1/2 way done and then the Nissan soon as the weather stops [bleep] , see if it runs or not (fingers crossed ) it will need to clean fuel cell and replace hoses . cars are the stars - The Cars are the Stars Contest. - Page 3 Ptdc0104
Got the elect's going Very Happy Thanks for contributing Jason and Ron for the contact about Prizes ! This Site Rocks! Small Cox Logo
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Post  akjgardner Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:08 am

I will come up with something , sounds like fun
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Post  Davenz13 Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:01 am

I'm still in with a modified Shrike.
It's been on the drawing board for a three or four years so this is just what's needed to get me to do it.
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Post  DrCox Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:00 pm

Marleysky wrote:
I think the Dr. has been working on one or two...https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12657-65-corvette#162439

I think I need to retire. This thread has been here since Dec 11 of last year and now I'm just reading it?

The whole thread is a great idea.

As a kid, it was difficult to find other friends interested in gas powered models. And now, here is a whole group of Cox addicts ready to get down to true fun.

Heck...I'm in.
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:32 pm

That’s great guys, the more the merrier.

I would certainly like to see some more building going on.
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Post  roddie Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:10 pm

This contest has been eating at me. I've wanted to build a wheel-driven Cox-engine powered model ever since I got back into the 1/2A Cox glow-engine powered airplanes in the early 1990's. The "U-control" airplanes took precedence.. because of my family-history.. but I have marveled at the possible "surface-model" design/applications for our marvelous little engines.

Could I build a simple little tether-car.. without making my brain bleed? I'm used-to dealing with my bleeding brain.., so I say YES! I'll try to get a car together for this..

I have a 1.375" O.D. PVC flywheel.. and found a 1.375" O.D. opposing wheel to balance-out a drive-axle.

cars are the stars - The Cars are the Stars Contest. - Page 3 Flywhe10

A rubber-band "tread" wrapped-around that flywheel should provide adequate traction for an "inboard" drive-wheel. The 1.375" diameter should provide adequate ground-clearance below the frame/body of the vehicle.
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:46 pm

Worth a shot! Glad to have you join in.
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Post  roddie Sun Mar 31, 2019 5:06 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Worth a shot! Glad to have you join in.

How difficult can this be? I think not very.. as long as I apply the K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple.. stupid) Laughing The last thing I need.. is another model-project on the table.. but this just screams FUN. I'm really going to try to keep this build simple by designing my car as a tethered "profile" model.. having only an "outline" of a body.. and only the essential elements of operation.

I'm planning a rear-engine (Cox .049 reed-valve) with an inboard flywheel drive. The non-powered outboard rear axle will have a "wider-track" for stability. A simple wedge-tank will be used for fuel-delivery.. and a stock-Cox heat-sink clamp will be used on the top-end.

This 3mm Luan ply body will be the main-structure. I used a French-curve to arrive at something that looked streamlined..

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The Dremel scroll-saw made short-work of cutting it out.

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The front axle is planned to be a very narrow-track.. with the pair of wooden wheels straddling the 3mm Luan-ply body.
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Post  NEW222 Sun Mar 31, 2019 5:48 pm

Looks like you have a nice little project on your hands. WIll be watching on and off this week as I will be in the midwest in my favorite desert.... The one with lots of lights and scenery.... When I get a chance, I will be watching.
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Post  roddie Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:09 pm

I threw this together pretty quick.. but I had been thinking about the design.. on and off for the last few weeks. I still need to mount the #18 1/3 oz. (9.85cc) Perfect-brand "short-std." wedge tank.. but that should be a non-issue. The fuel tank/payload; together with the outboard stationary 1/8" music-wire rear-axle with wheel/tire was designed to counter-balance the rear-end to offset the weight of the inboard drive-system. It's working-out as planned so far. I don't have a bridle-mount for the tether worked out yet.. That will be a deal-breaker I'm sure.

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cars are the stars - The Cars are the Stars Contest. - Page 3 20190352

The blocks either-side of the plywood are 1/4" Maple. I wanted a substantially thick "base" for mounting the engine.. and also for the 1/8" music-wire outboard axle.

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The Rodd-E-Liminator........... Laughing
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Post  NEW222 Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:26 pm

She looks fast roddie! As for birdle mount, mine is simply bent wire with zero bends on the end and through control horns. If that makes sense? If you want a better picture of mine, you will unfortunately have to wait till I get home on saturday. My earlier pictures however may be clear enough to see what I was trying to say.
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Post  Marleysky Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:48 pm

Oh yeah! That “Traction Tire” is exactly what I had invisioned when you first posted pictures of your PVC cutouts. I know some of the later Cox cars had hard plastic tires and figured WhyNot? Im still just cleaning the plastic on my old Shrikes, with some wild thoughts on the unlimited catagory! Thanks for updating us.
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Post  getback Mon Apr 01, 2019 6:39 am

Way to Gooo!! >>>> Roodie Go to see a build going on She is looking Good Small Cox Logo
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Post  NEW222 Mon Apr 01, 2019 6:51 am

A question regarding roddies build...... Since he is using a 'traction tire', does it matter where that tire/ engine is placed? Inside or outside, as a reedie can run either direction. Just kinda thinking like a control line plane here, and mI mind is wondering. Very Happy
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Post  rsv1cox Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:21 am

Good going roddie. Looks like a Salt Flats Special.

If a tether doesn't work out you could make it a leisurely straight liner.

Or:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbgLtdlY2a0
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Post  aspeed Mon Apr 01, 2019 9:40 am

How would a straight line work with the Cox cars?  I think mine has a provision for that.  I put a wire in, for a circle burner, at the balance point but am not sure if it would work.  It may come in on the line, or crab out.  I never tried this thing, the crank has a lot of slop and likely needs a new case, or bushings maybe. ( I have done that)  I would bet it would not hold a needle setting as is, and the plastic tube in the tank is likely powder after 50 years.cars are the stars - The Cars are the Stars Contest. - Page 3 Cox_ca11
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Post  rsv1cox Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:28 am

For straight line use, there should be a hole with a grommet at the front and back of your chassis. Just run a long string through the holes.

Disassemble that engine and replace the consumables. Bet it will run like a champ. Compare with this one.

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Post  aspeed Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:49 am

So at the end of the line, it just runs into the post or jug and spins the wheels, or stalls out? Seems kind of crude. I have no body to break I guess. Not even sure which one it would have come with. I think the Corvette one maybe?
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Post  Marleysky Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:14 am

aspeed wrote:So at the end of the line, it just runs into the post or jug and spins the wheels, or stalls out?  Seems kind of crude.  I have no body to break I guess.  Not even sure which one it would have come with.  I think the Corvette one maybe?

There is a diagram in the owners manual of how to set up the straight line Dragster set up. The end was two posts (nails) with rubber bands attached to a line strung between, with the straight line attached in the middle, sorta looks like a “Y” to cushion the car at the end. Yeah, It was crude, that’s why most cars DON’T have their front grille or bumpers! Ya end up burning tires or stripping gears. Oh what fun we had!  

To help ID the cars, check the Hubcaps, and the color of the front wheel spacers. The wheelspacers are usually the color of the car body and the hubcaps are Corvette, Buick or Ford Gt design. The one Bob shows above has two colored spacers so it could have been a   Corvette (black)  or Ford Gt.(blue) oop , Riveria came blue also.
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