Need advice - Texaco II Engine running problems

Yes but he says that he has replaced the complete tank assembly ....

fredvon4 wrote:Sounds typical of a engine with poor Venturi O ring seal BUT in this case a Tank screw leaking air... (30 seconds run time)

Full tank with bad O ring will run for half a tank then leak and run lean

Recommend, eliminate all air leak possibilities.... seal for tank to back.... I use a very light addition of PermaTex Anaerobic Gasket maker in the recess..... Ken Cook's Q tip cotton under every tank screw head

I would also assume the backplate and needle valve was replaced too if he replaced the whole assembly?

Has he tried silicone fuel tubing around the needle valve to eliminate any needle valve leaks?

Found this image on Google as an example.

https://goo.gl/images/WpAVpS

Not sure if the whole fuel tank assembly was replaced or only the tank.

Jason_WI wrote:I would also assume the backplate and needle valve was replaced too if he replaced the whole assembly?

Has he tried silicone fuel tubing around the needle valve to eliminate any needle valve leaks?

Found this image on Google as an example.

https://goo.gl/images/WpAVpS

Bernie

Zero disrespect intended but... every complete back plate..Plastic, and tank assy ----I have from you and Matt will leak air if some simple steps are not taken

Tank to crank case... Cox gasket with very light skim of anaerobic gasket maker....placebo effect...the gasket it self is good enough IMO

Back plate to Tank seal...several methods...some with thread, some with My preferred Anaerobic gasket maker or RTV

4 screws always seem to leak... RTV, or Anaerobic Gasket maker, or cotton sewing head thread under screw head, Q tip cotton under screw head....Ken Cook's recommended way

Also a note... with a metal back plate a lot more torque to the 4 screws is possible... with the plastic back plate this just distorts and makes air leaks more prevalent

In fact I got so tired of fussin I just went out of way to buy many cheap lots of Cox engines JUST for the metal back plates

Thanks for the advice and we will send the client a link to this thread.

I had this same problem on the Texaco I bought from you. I finally found that the fuel line in the tank did not fit on the nipple on the backplate very good. It would run until the fuel level got to the nipple connections and stop. Usually about 30 seconds. Every time you took the tank apart the fuel line would fall right off the nipple. I fixed the problem by selling the engine. I did state the problem when selling the engine. I bought one with the metal backplate and never had a problem.

The problem with the fuel pickup line would have been the same with the metal backplate. We found out the hard way that the line we were using became soft over time and did not sit properly.

Since we changed over to the yellow Tygon line we have not had this problem. Sorry that you had issues with the engine and, if you had mentioned this to us, would have sent you the new fuel line version.

Bernie, It was no problem. I decided the Texaco engines weren't for me. Instead of bothering you, I decided to sell them and disclose the problem when selling them. I have no doubt whatsoever you would have taken care of the problem.

Don't worry, I will be ordering more real soon. By the way, your 1 oz. round fuel tanks are the best 1/2A tanks period!

Sure would like to see some more of those beautiful red anodized RC surestart engines.

Yes, the one ounce tanks are fabulous because of their super-easy assembly. We get them from Tissan Haifa in Israel; who used to be the Israeli Cox distributor.

I had a black widow that did the very same thing. It nearly drove me nuts. It ended up being the reed and plastic reed retainer. The retainer wasnt perfectly round inside and even though the reed fit well, at one spot it didnt. You would think it should have quit at random intervals but nope. It would run about 30 seconds and quit every time. I sanded the smallest amount of one edge of the reed and it was fixed.
Phil