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Post  johnv58 Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:03 am

I want to clean the threads on a .049 engine's needle valve. What size are the threads, measures close to a # 2 screw thread. Thanks for any assistance.
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Post  microflitedude Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:08 am

What kind? Did it come off of an engine with a intergral tank? (this one will be black) Or one with just a backplate? (this one will be longer)


Last edited by microflitedude on Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  microflitedude Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:09 am

See if you can match it to any of these - http://coxengines.ca/search.php?mode=search&page=1
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Post  GermanBeez Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:17 am

johnv58 wrote:I want to clean the threads on a .049 engine's needle valve. What size are the threads, measures close to a # 2 screw thread. Thanks for any assistance.
take a Kleenex(R), put a few drops of fuel on it, carefully wrap it around the needle threads,
and turn the needle around a few times. then you should see all the "schmutz" that was stuck in the threads
on the Kleenex Smile
regards,
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Post  johnv58 Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:40 am

The engine is from one of the cars...Baja Bug / Dune Buggy. It does have its own tank, backplate is diecast. I did get all the goop out of it, now it seems the threads are messed up. Not bad, just wanted to see I could save it by running a tap in it. If not I'll replace it.
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Post  gcb Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:17 am

microflitedude wrote:See if you can match it to any of these - http://coxengines.ca/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Darn, I read all 25 pages of the catalog...now I'll have to go through it again to order all of those things that I didn't know I needed plus all of the ones I didn't know were available!

George
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Post  SuperDave Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:22 am

As to a stuck needle, I'd suggest turning in small increments back and forth before trying a full rotation.

Smile
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Post  EXModelEngines Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:39 am

Sounds like you have a Babe Bee style engine with the attached 5cc aluminum fuel tank. In that case the needle thread is a 4-80.

Regards, Matt
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:45 am

SuperDave wrote:As to a stuck needle, I'd suggest turning in small increments back and forth before trying a full rotation.

Smile

Yea bit of heat never goes a miss.
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Post  johnv58 Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:38 pm

OK I will attempt to locate a #4-80 tap and see where it goes, thanks.
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Post  andrew Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:59 pm

4-80 Tap

Before buying a tap, I would be inclined to try thoroughly cleaning the threads on the needle and valve body, then attempting to carefully re-thread the needle into the spraybar. Getting an extremely fine threaded tap restarted correctly can be difficult, especially if the entry threads have been cross-threaded.
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Post  EXModelEngines Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:41 pm

johnv58 wrote:OK I will attempt to locate a #4-80 tap and see where it goes, thanks.

To be honest, if the spraybar that is pressed into the backplate is stripped, or no longer useable you are better off getting a new backplate with the spraybar installed. It will be much cheaper than a 4-80 tap/die set.

Regards, Matt
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Post  johnv58 Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:21 pm

Thought about that, but I did find a tap for $20 and would have it for future problems as well.
I better sleep on this.
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Post  microflitedude Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:45 pm

Sounds like somebody tightened that sucker down, way too much...
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Post  fit90 Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:44 am

If you are having trouble getting the tap started because the first turn on the threads are damaged then try taking a smaller tap (like a #2 or #3-80) and using it to cut the damaged first threads until you can get the original tap to start. It is like using an internal thread file.

Good luck,

Bob
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Post  johnv58 Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:39 pm

Just wanted to end this topic with a note. I did purchase the #4-80 tap through a knife builders website. It did the job, I must have messed up a thread when cleaning the spraybar and now it is fine. Thanks all for your help.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:07 pm

GermanBeez wrote:take a Kleenex(R), put a few drops of fuel on it, carefully wrap it around the needle threads,
and turn the needle around a few times. then you should see all the "schmutz" that was stuck in the threads
on the Kleenex Smile
regards,
Beez

I'd like to throw in one last thought, if I may. I spent many years occasionally frustrated that some tanked engines wouldn't needle easily after a fresh rebuild. After reading an article about building a reliable unwavering Texaco endurance engine, I realized my problem may have been fibers from the paper towels I was using to clean the parts. After switching to only lint-free rags, including laying one down as my assembly surface, I have a lot less paper weights when I crank it the first time.

The spraybar and needle orifice is so tiny that an unbelievably small amount of paper fibers can tangle up foul it like hair in a drain. I use a magnifying glass to inspect the components one at a time as it goes back together. It's amazing how much stuff I still find. Anything in the tank area can end up inside the spraybar, so look in all the nooks and crannies. On the reed side and in the venturi it's not nearly as critical. It can usually belch out and burn bits like paper fibers and shredded grass with no problem.

At Lowes, in the paint section, you can buy bags of t-shirt material squares that claim to be lint-free. After a couple of washes WITHOUT a dryer sheet, they can be used as car rags or whatever suits your needs.
Just a suggestion.

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Post  crankbndr Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:17 pm

My problem is cat hair, my wifes two cats sleep by my little work bench. Cant touch or pick up anything that does not have hair, add a little castor its a problem.
I have to clean two or three times, drives me nuts.
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Post  microflitedude Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:20 pm

Goodwill sells "goodwipes", which are torn up shirts like Rusty said.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:29 pm

microflitedude wrote:Goodwill sells "goodwipes", which are torn up shirts like Rusty said.
I bought a pack of those. They stunk something awful but they were lint free.

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