Cutting Out Printed Wood Kits With Scissors

Cribbs74 wrote:Interesting, do you have any problems with warping?

Warping doesn't seem to be an issue however when you are sheeting around complex curves you have to be carefull not to buckle the balsa. Sometimes I overlap the wet balsa and snip both pieces with the sissors. This works really well.

Yes, wetting the sheeting works great. The sheeting on the wing of my P-38 was done that way, also the area just behind the engine cowling on both my Nieuport 28's. But I think it was 1/32".

Bob

Gee.. it never occurred to me to try scissors. Incidentally.. I bought a 2-pack of scissors a couple years ago. They're "Westcott" brand with Titanium bonding. I really like them.



I marked one pair with an "M".. and use those for cutting tin-sheet. I haven't used the other pair.. because after building several fuel tanks, cutting 1/32"-1/64" ply fuse-doublers and misc. thin sheet-goods.. the "M" pair still cuts even very thin paper cleanly. Amazon currently lists the pair for around $8 dollars which is about what I paid at Walmart. They get mixed reviews. Apparently the first generation was made using higher-grade materials.. but also were a lot more expensive. Mine have held up well though. They're the most comfortable scissors I've ever used.

Thanks for the tip Joe.

I have used scissors to cut thin plywood used for doublers on the noses of profile models. A bit difficult with tight inside curves but otherwise a lot easier than with a knife, and thin plywood is difficult to saw too. You need sturdy scissors to avoid the blades bending, as this will sometimes "de-laminate" the plywood.

Good idea Joe , i have cut balsa with scissors but never thought to wet it first to keep the crushing effect from happening Since i do tend to dull exacto blades very quickly , i think Fred said he uses surgical knifes Thanks for sharing .