Original Super Power fuel formula?

I saw on the back of one of my cans it said it contains 50% more nitro than other fuels so maybe 20*(1+50%)=30%?

ze wrote:I saw on the back of one of my cans it said it contains 50% more nitro than other fuels so maybe 20*(1+50%)=30%?

I never knew super power fuel as being racing fuel.

I think that was in reference to their competitor's standard half-A fuels of time (Testors, K&B, Fox, etc.). At work they used to call such language as "puffery" (sounds nice but means nothing).

(This was in reference to a contractor's response to a solicitation by sending us his literature that made his item appear to be better than the competitors.)

BTW, to the forum!

I'm not sure what I'm going to say but I think Cox used one or more additives in a different recipe with more oil I seem to have read orange oil in the recipe ???? Not just castor oil in fact I believe it is orange peel oil Someone here may have heard that, I think I read this here several years ago And heard that its some stuf used to improve combustion when using a lot of oil ??? don't really know where I got this information from anymore but one day you will have an orange in your hand and you will remember having read this. Take a lighter, light it and press the orange peel in front of the flame In order to project the drops of oil from the zest of the orange It burns really quickly And strangely the smell reminds me of something !!???

I've posted these original Cox glow fuel formulas before.. but here they are again for reference.

NOTE: The mixing formula of the "Race Power Fuel" uses "Flight Power Fuel" (#50000) as a base (rather than straight methanol..) and adds castor, nitro and Dow Lube to it.

Back in the day I would use the Cox Racing fuel which was the white and red can with the trophy on the front. It certainly yielded higher rpm results but the fuel that was just amazing for me was K&B 1000. Not only did this fuel offer superior running characteristics, it smelled like no other fuel. The smell was instantly recognizable in a good way. I miss that fuel and the fun I had using it. Missile Mist was another one which I would substitute when I had no K&B. In my parts, my local hobby shop carried Fox fuels and to obtain K&B fuel I had to go fairly far to purchase it. I spilled Missile Mist on my new sneakers turning them purple. My mother was so mad at me for doing so.

Ken, back in the day, 1970's, I'd opt for K&B 1000. Hobby shops would carry it, not all carried Cox fuels. Those that did, it was cheaper than Cox fuels. It always gave me satisfying runs. Once in a while when 1000 was out, I'd buy K&B 500, but its lower nitro level dropped RPM's a little, affecting performance.

I tried Fox Missle Mist once in a while when K&B 1000 was not available. In the late 1970's, early 1980's, one hobby shop I frequented in Honolulu carried Sig fuels and they were slightly cheaper, so I opted for Champion all Castor with 25% nitro. That sustained me through college.

I gather that Fox added a dye to their Mist to differentiate it from the other fuels. Modellers don't care about color. Perhaps this was a move to verify the right fuel was going into the right cans at the factory?

Powermaster was using a red dye in their oil a few years back in the GMA fuel blends we use for stunt. They then used another oil which was purple which I believe was Royal Purple. In both situations, these dyes were staining the finishes of the planes. White planes were turning purple.The red dye was turning the engines red. I have some engines with Delrin venturi's and to this day they're still pinkish due to this dye. After several nasty letters, Powermaster switched back to no dyes in the fuel. Missile Mist would stain your hands but it sure did smell good. let's not forget how cool the cans looked. There's something to be said about the coolness factor back then.

blend my own fuel. always have since racing 2 stroke bikes which had more additives at times than model fuel. I have found with my cox 049 engines going from 20% nitro to 25% nitro makes a decent power increase but does shorten plug life. but is worth it. Im about to go to klotz synth and castor. 10% klots castor and 10% klotz synth. im not wedded to it just want to try it. the klotz synth doesnt retard combustion like castor and 10% klotz castor should support the small end and crank fine. time will tell. can only try.

Gary,
Have you played with the fuel calculator yet?

ze wrote:I saw on the back of one of my cans it said it contains 50% more nitro than other fuels so maybe 20*(1+50%)=30%?

@ze , @Ken Cook in his 2016 post provided the link with the answer:
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t10183-original-super-power-fuel-formula#128790

Scanning the thread, I found your answer. @crankbndr nailed it with his clip from the 1985 Cox Product Catalog, available for download as a PDF from the link at the bottom of the LATEST TOPICS menu:
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t10183-original-super-power-fuel-formula#128833

Here is his catalog clip:


The original Cox Super Power was 15% nitro.

944_Jim wrote:Gary,
Have you played with the fuel calculator yet?

Sorry Jim. No. got back to work and completely forgot. I will give it a go tomorrow night after work. Ive got an old version of excel on a laptop at home that I hope will support it. I cant do it at work as all of the systems are classified defence systems.

Yabby, your percentages above is what Sig fuel was. 20% oil and 50/50 blend. I personally lean more to the synthetic.

Hi Ken, thanks for that. As this is my first venture into synth oil in Cox engines I will start at 10 castor and 10 synth. I think modern synth has some likely advantages over castor, but castor is still there when an engine runs lean at the end. The trick I think is the ratio. I have a feeling 5 castor is probably enough. I will work toward 5 castor but it needs to show a benefit over 10 castor 10 synth.

I have in the past used Castrol A747 in my Yamaha TZ with great success. It was a castor synth blend made for pre mixed race fuels. I had previously used all castor oils, but the castor synth A747 was recomended by Yamaha and was significantly better. So I am intetested in castor synth oil for my Cox engines. will take time.

Castor or synthetic it makes no difference when it leans out. If your using Klotz and at least 20% oil content either or you will not ruin the engine. Your engine is leaning out because of your tank. Make the tank uniflow and it will almost run the same from start to finish. Better yet, run a bladder and the run goes rich in the end.

Hi All,
I miss the days of getting a gallon of 40% and a FAI 0% from the LHS...
Mixing and playing 'mad scientist' to get the perfect run...
It would be nice if synthetics...
Smelled like Castor Oil...
Take care,
Have fun,
Dave

Klotz Techniplate smells even better.

Hi Ken,
I guess the smell of castor is nostalgic to me...
As a kid coming back from 'Cox' flying, all the clothes were not allowed in the laundry hamper.
Had to be hand washed in a bucket and hung out on the clothes line. (then stored in the shed !)
Going flying meant 'suiting up' in our 'pilot clothes' and having fun...
I have a small jug of BeNol Castor.
I take a 'wiff' before going 1/2A electric flying...
The smell of Castor and flying makes me happy !
Take care,
Have fun,
Dave