retrieve the color of my Black Widow¿?

bamboozler wrote:My guess would be to use ScotchBrite or 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to clean up surface then degrease with isopropyl alcohol then use a high temp paint like engine block paint.

Or just get one of these.  Cheaper than the paint.
http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-crankcase-black.html
Bernie's case only.

or for a little more,
http://www.exmodelengines.com/cox-.049-crankcase-assembly-black-high-performance.html
Matt's crankcase assembly incliding Killer Crank & drive plate.

Rod.

The only way to really restore this is to readonise it then dye and seal it. For a single Bee engine it will be expensive. It will be cheaper to replace the parts.

A smell, a mess and a noise is my speciality!



Black isn't the easiest colour to start with either!

Thank You for the various dining options.
I'll see what I can do within my means.
Ian his work is impressive, excellent.
If you do not mind, what is the procedure anodized ?, which materials are used ?, his work is admirable.
Thanks again for the good will all share in this forum.

I get my materials from here

http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Anodising-Kit.php

It is easy to simplify the process but these are probably the best videos to watch







There are many different variables and it takes practice. Don't try this on a valuable or difficult to replace model engine part until you are well practiced.

My old BW has the same problem, although not quite as deep as yours Mauricio. First I thought I'll get a new crankcase, but then it would not be so original anymore, so I think I'll just get a new shiny "no drag" starter spring and cover the damage with it instead

KariFS wrote:My old BW has the same problem, although not quite as deep as yours Mauricio. First I thought I'll get a new crankcase, but then it would not be so original anymore, so I think I'll just get a new shiny "no drag" starter spring and cover the damage with it instead

Kari friend, I think it's a subtle solution !.
I would like to restore the black color, but I think I should find a solution that is not very expensive as it is in one piece. I wondered if an epoxy paint could somehow improve the appearance and endurance while fuel ... ???

ian1954 wrote:I get my materials from here
It is easy to simplify the process but these are probably the best videos to watch
There are many different variables and it takes practice. Don't try this on a valuable or difficult to replace model engine part until you are well practiced.

Ian, thank you very much for the information really is what should be done, but because it is one piece mmmmm I see you opt for an alternative solution not mean it is the best, but maybe I was glad a little see the appearance of the engine, the better!

Sadly this is the fate of every used black widow. The cheapest and easiet route is to replace the case. Even cheaper would be to use it until it can't be used anymore.

Ron

Adonising is a hobby in itself. There is quite a learning curve but once you have the setup - it can be very rewarding.

For "one off" restorations - it is not worth the trouble and the expense.

But - once the art is mastered .......

Take the grottiest looking crankcase - this one was originally black but unloved and corrosion had set in ......




I combined this with tidying up a DC Bambi cylinder head and a few other parts (can't remember what they were!).

I chose not to use black dye as this was a used engine and after restoration - it would look new and unused.

The Bambi was unrun but the head had been scratched in storage.



Oh yes - now I remember - one of the other engines was an ED 2.46



It is difficult to match parts - same dye, different aluminium - results in a different shade - all down to timing.

Mauricio, I finally cleaned up the Black Widow I showed earlier and also added a starter spring. This kind of spring does not cover the damaged area completely but I think it looks OK. Not new or perfect, but but not bad either. It looks like an engine that has been around the circle a few times and I like it the way it is

I've probably posted this years ago, but wanted to show some of the great colors you can get with anodizing and it really isn't hard to do.

Mark, do you still do this? I have one of my Shuriken's that had a head on with another engine, it also has it's anodizing ground off to achieve contact with the battery clip. Ken

I might dig it out and do some this winter, if so i'll let you know, if it's gold i don't have dye. Also, if the case is machined or extruded we're good, cast aluminum doesn't anodize very well.