Attaching Cloth Hinges

larrys4227 wrote:I've only done this once on a couple of Lil' Bats ... and I used CA.  It seems the CA will soak into the hinge point making it stiff and brittle, thus they break.

What do you all use to attach your cloth hinges?

you can do sewn hinges if you want to there better (as in they dont break as often)
il teach you how to do them if you want

I used balsa glue (not the water based stuff), first a little to get the hinges to stay in place and afterwards some more to soak through the entire attachment area. This glue is quite thick so it does not wick into the fabric easily. The elevator and stabilizer were clearcoated before I glued the hinges, this prevents the glue from absorbing into the balsa. After the glue had set, I put a drop of sewing machine oil to the "hinging" areas of the fabric strips to prevent the following clear and paint layers from absorbing into the hinge.

larrys4227 wrote:I've only done this once on a couple of Lil' Bats ... and I used CA.  It seems the CA will soak into the hinge point making it stiff and brittle, thus they break.

What do you all use to attach your cloth hinges?

I found the same problem while using CA on cloth hinges so I switched to commercial pinned plastic hinges.

With cloth hinges you have to paint the horizontal stablizer/elevator assembly after glueing them getting paint on the joint interferring with it's operation. With pinned plastic hinges you can paint the surfaces first then attach the hinges, makes for a much cleaner and smoother surface.

I built a very simple hinge slot cutter using a Dremel tool and cut off disc. It cuts hinge slots quicker than you can CA the cloth.

But, you can use five minute epoxy on cloth hinges wiping in on but away from the hinge joint and it won't crinkle the cloth like CA does.

I was quite impressed with my first attempt at sewn hinges. (See my "Cadet" thread). They hold the surfaces close together with hardly any gap and have free movement for more than 180°. I used Spectra braid fishing line. Not sure I'd go back to cloth, but I also just used balsa glue like KariFS explained.

Rod.

This is for the Jumping Bean I'm building ... should have mentioned that! The finish will be silk/dope ... if that matters.

Would love to use pinned hinges, but the elevator thickness prevents it. I have a whole bag them too!

I'll have to re-visit sewn hinges .... never done it though. Probably sew them "after" finishing?

Thanks for all the replies ....

here's a thread on stitched hinges.  i have been stitching mine when not using pinned hinges.

link to sewn hinges thread

Thanks for the link .... sewn hinges are getting my attention.  Something different to try. I'm surprised that sewing doesn't require multiple loops through each hole of the pattern. Just one pass-through, eh?

Certainly something I can practice .... got plenty of scrap balsa ....  

i did not read back through that thread but, it's a good idea to strengthen the edge of the balsa where you will bee stitching. that way you don't cut into or through the balsa when pulling the tread tight

Sewn hinges, hing points along with dubro pinned hinges are a better option
However when it comes to cloth hinges I use testors fast drying cement (The brown tube), Sigbond or a small amount of 5 minute epoxy as mentioned. I haven't tried sewn hinges yet but i'm gonna learn since I'm gonna use it on my .010 build.
Thanks for the link Roger (Bandit)

For fabric hinges I use Testors "airplane glue" that's what I called it as a kid. But they're hard to hide.
Here's my favorite 1/2A stitch as seen on the Refried Bean elevator. It's 3 figure-8 passes through each pair of holes. Dacron flying line, and I tie one end to something like a doorknob and pre-stretch it.  


Here's my stitch for 35 size planes. Also 3 figure-8 passes through each pair of holes, with the crossover to the next pair of holes hidden on the underside. So all my holes are directly opposite each other rather than zig-zagged. Just my method, there are many.


Rusty

i like the look of them being single stitches like you did on the bean. i have been using one pass with some upholstery thread that i cant even break and make them three stitches wide but, like i said,, i like the way they look spread out and will have to try that.

I like stitch hinges on 1/2A and use the pin hinges on larger stuff. I have repaired broken pin hinges by going with stitches. They work well and never fail.

Cloth hinges will only work for so long.

For smaller models I still prefer what used to be called "Chinese" hinges. I usually apply them to the stab first...one on top, next on bottom for as many as needed. Then you connect them to the elevator(s)...Top on stab, bottom on elevator, etc. I use white glue or model cement, carefully keeping it away from the pivot point (hinge).

I have also adhered hinges with clear dope. You pre-dope, then apply hinges using another coat after the first one has dried. Using this method you MUST pre-dope or the joint will be too weak. I heard that ribbon from a sewing shop makes a good hinge. I have not tried it.

George

I use the cloth (I would rather call it glass fiber textile) hinges just back inserting them into the slot cut into the balsa and keep the elevator and rudder in place by some scotch tape placed over the hinge on both sides.

The hinge aligns the mating parts and the scotch tape keeps the assembly in place. Scotch tape is very lasting and the hinge can also be replaced without destruction because it is not glued.

gcb wrote:For smaller models I still prefer what used to be called "Chinese" hinges.

I heard that ribbon from a sewing shop makes a good hinge. I have not tried it.

George

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George - I can't invision those Chinese hinges. Do you have a picture you could post?

I am guessing you've never been in a "sewing, quilting crafts" type store?  The choice and selections of ribbon, are wider and more varied than our choice of paints and coverings at our local hobby shop( or on line)!!  Next time I have to "stop for just a minute" at the fabric store with my wife, I'll snap a picture of their wall of ribbon.

 It's no wonder they can never make up their minds...to many choices

It is rather amazing some of the product similarities between our hobbies ...cutting matts, razor knives, glues...all very similar, but more expensive, probably cause they're pink.

I looked for those style of hinging also and didn't see what I could envision as for airplanes , yea you can meet some interesting people in those craft stores I think more men the better is probably what there thinking . Getback

Marleysky wrote:George - I can't invision those Chinese hinges. Do you have a picture you could post?

Don't have pics but it is just a name for what you are probably already using. Cloth strips in pairs...each pair has one strip attached to top of stab and bottom of elevator. Other strip is attached bottom of stab and top of elevator.

I am guessing you've never been in a "sewing, quilting crafts" type store?  The choice and selections of ribbon, are wider and more varied than our choice of paints and coverings at our local hobby shop( or on line)!!  Next time I have to "stop for just a minute" at the fabric store with my wife, I'll snap a picture of their wall of ribbon.

 It's no wonder they can never make up their minds...to many choices

It is rather amazing some of the product similarities between our hobbies ...cutting matts, razor knives, glues...all very similar, but more expensive, probably cause they're pink.

Yes, I have...and I've picked up some good stuff there.

I like nylon ribbon about 1/2 inch wide, preferably white. Actually I still have some old typewriter ribbon that was discarded before the inking process. Great stuff. Probably unobtainable now .

George

Yeah, ok that's right. Over/under, that is what I've used in the past. I guess the "Chinese" name was throwing me off.  I'm still going to try the sewn figure 8 style on my next build.  
Unobtainium : un-inked typewriter ribbon   Ha, ha ha.   Sad, but true.

Muslin was pretty much the material that Perfect offered. I found that Sig Coverall made a very good , flexible and darn near invisible hinge. Problems though is that Koverall is a weave. It needs to be cut in one direction. You will recognize it instantly once you cut it. It also frays or it becomes easily pulled out of square as the weave allows it to move across it's axis. I would cut clean strips by sandwiching it between paper and cutting through everything. I use the same method to cut Jap tissue when making decorations. Jap tissue will cut then begin to drag tearing the edge. Hinges were installed using Testor's fast dry. It works great offering good adhesion, good working time and it dries clear. As George mentioned, Dope would also do the same.

Here's a shot of my Voodoo using a similar method of Koverall but I used 1/2 oz glass cloth. The cloth is wrapped around the entire pin. The Voodoo and others used a L shaped pin for hinge pins, one being on each boom. If your looking to quickly wreck a plane, this is a good way to do it. Too much stress is placed on the elevator and it needs a continuous hinge. I went with 1/16" wire bushed where it passes though the booms. I used slo-cure epoxy to glass the pin onto the elevator and even with a clear finish it becomes difficult to detect.