Building some Stuntman 23s

**RknRusty** Tue May 19, 2015 6:29 pm

Hi all, I'm starting a Summer project and y'all are a treasure trove of 1/2A building expertise that I'll be needing to tap to build three Stuntman 23s.

I found my old Carl Goldgerg Stuntman 23 plans and am marking up all the measurements. I don't know yet what engines I plan to use and it may depend on which engine the recipient of one of these planes wants to use. I'm thinking I'd like Medallions, but that poses some differences that affect nose strength, as opposed to stunt Bees. I'll get back to that later, and may try and locate the Brodak plans and see what's changed in the engine mounts since the good ol' days. If anyone has a Brodak sheet, could I get a copy of that section dealing with beam mounts?

Also, I am thinking of ripping the fuselages lengthwise about 1/3rd below the wing and filling it with a strip of spruce for lateral strength, preventing snapping behind the wing. Should reduce twist during maneuvers too. On the same thought, the Goldberg wing was in two long halves. I don't know if that was for strength or warp resistance, but I could laminate a spruce spar in there too. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Rusty

statorvane Tue May 19, 2015 7:08 pm

Rusty,

I'm pretty sure the wing was laminated in the Goldberg kit to economize on wood. I have built two of them a long time ago and the wood always wound up warping a little near the joint. I started one a little over a year ago, duplicating the kit structure from plans on Outerzone. I can't remember how the grain ran in the kit, but I built mine with the grain parallel to the leading edge and trailing edge.

I saw where someone built one with the wingtips pieces made separately with the grain running perpendicular to the chord - I am thinking to prevent the warping from happening.

Good luck with the Stuntmen!

**RknRusty** Tue May 19, 2015 7:31 pm

I've seen that done to the wingtips too. Seems like a good idea. Or even tip blocks like wingtip tanks would give it some style and prevent curling. And provide a leadout guide.

NEW222 Tue May 19, 2015 7:37 pm

I like and have never thought of using a spruce spar in the fuse, but i do however use them in my wings. A few have been in the center, and the others in the joint between front and rear wing halves. I don't think there would be any penalty to add a front and center spar. I find the front ones help protect the wing from the nice landings i do.

**Cribbs74** Tue May 19, 2015 8:41 pm

You already know how to do the snout for a beam mount.

Just measure out the length from the LE with the BW on the stock radial mount and cut the nose to that length. Maybe a bit more to compensate for the lighter Medallion.

The shape is up to you.

**RknRusty** Tue May 19, 2015 8:58 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:You already know how to do the snout for a beam mount.

Just measure out the length from the LE with the BW on the stock radial mount and cut the nose to that length. Maybe a bit more to compensate for the lighter Medallion.

The shape is up to you.

Yes I do. I was looking at the old style beam mount that allowed an upright cylinder, trying to decide if there were any advantages. But I think the disadvantage would be quite obvious after one fast inverted landing.

**Cribbs74** Tue May 19, 2015 11:37 pm

Instead of Spruce you could use carbon fibre, it comes in round tubes or square stock. It's lighter and much stronger.

rat9000 Wed May 20, 2015 7:00 pm

RknRusty wrote:Hi all, I'm starting a Summer project and y'all are a treasure trove of 1/2A building expertise that I'll be needing to tap to build three Stuntman 23s.

I found my old Carl Goldgerg Stuntman 23 plans and am marking up all the measurements. I don't know yet what engines I plan to use and it may depend on which engine the recipient of one of these planes wants to use. I'm thinking I'd like Medallions, but that poses some differences that affect nose strength, as opposed to stunt Bees. I'll get back to that later, and may try and locate the Brodak plans and see what's changed in the engine mounts since the good ol' days. If anyone has a Brodak sheet, could I get a copy of that section dealing with beam mounts?

Also, I am thinking of ripping the fuselages lengthwise about 1/3rd below the wing and filling it with a strip of spruce for lateral strength, preventing snapping behind the wing. Should reduce twist during maneuvers too. On the same thought, the Goldberg wing was in two long halves. I don't know if that was for strength or warp resistance, but I could laminate a spruce spar in there too. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Rusty

Hey Rusty,just seen this on the new latest topics feature,nice touch from the Administrator,Ron's on to something,carbon fiber,sheets that start from 1/32 thick, to carbon fiber balsa core starting at 1/4 thickness.Dont know how well this will incorporate into everything.Dragonplate.com.I've got an extra Purple Python from Bernie that I can send your way.Rat P.S. I"m going to use a Medallion,Pythons yours,carbon fiber is on me.

**RknRusty** Wed May 20, 2015 9:40 pm

rat9000 wrote:Hey Rusty,just seen this on the new latest topics feature,nice touch from the Administrator,Ron's on to something,carbon fiber,sheets that start from 1/32 thick, to carbon fiber balsa core starting at 1/4 thickness.Dont know how well this will incorporate into everything.Dragonplate.com.I've got an extra Purple Python from Bernie that I can send your way.Rat P.S. I"m going to use a Medallion,Pythons yours,carbon fiber is on me.

Medallion it is. I can get carbon fiber or whatever I need here in town. Thanks, but don't feed the beast before he coughs up a plane.
Rusty

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Building some Stuntman 23s

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