Stooge Question

Hey Bandit, I used a Stooge exclusively when I was an active flyer. The best thing to do is build or modify your airplane to have a good strong (music-wire) tail-gear strut with either a "loop" formed in it.. or a tail-wheel that's sturdy enough to drill a hole through for a "pin" to engage. Keep in mind that this alone; will be holding your airplane while you're walking out to grab your handle.. so it has to be strong enough, so as not to pull out of the tail.

The stooge construction can be quite simple. A small plywood base with a spring/pin that slides through two screw-eyes.. spaced far enough apart for the tailskid (or tail-wheel) to fit in between.. so that the pin slides through all three "holes". This provides a reliable locking-mechanism. A larger (IE: heavier) base can be made that won't slide forward on pavement.. but if there's grass at the outer circle.. the plate can be very small.. and "staked-down" using long spikes or steel rods through two forward-angled holes drilled in the rear edge of the plate.

Easier to show pics.. Here are two different designs that I built. NOTE: the forward-angle of the anchoring-spikes. When under tension; they will not pull out of the ground.




Below pic shows the pin being "pulled" to release the model. Attach a length of "Mason's twine" at least as long as your control lines.

Here's an old post of mine:

RknRusty wrote: I wrote this up for Godsey the other day.
Here is my stooge:



It works for all of my planes. For heavier ones I bungee the lawn table to the top of a barstool for added height.
It consists of

   *a plastic yard table
   *a cheap bath mat with a rubber bottom, about $5 at Big Lots or Wal Mart. It will usually obstruct the elevator. That's okay because before you pull the plane all the way out during launch, the elevator comes clear of the obstruction.
   *a bungee cord to secure it
   *a strong cord(dacron works fine) and metal shish kabob skewer or tent stake to anchor the contraption so you do not tip it over when you pull the plane free.(look to the left of the table and you can see it)


Fold the mat in half so the rubber bottom is on the inside. Stake the cord and skewer into the ground to secure it. This keeps you from tipping the contraption over when you pull the plane out to launch it.

Some planes need for it to be tilted so the plane is a few degrees nose-up. When I use the barstool I tilt it up with a rolled up towel between the stool seat and the underside of the plastic table. For the light planes like the Jumpin Bean and Li'l Satan, I just launch with it horizontal. They can get airborne without dipping toward the ground.

I use a brick to add pressure behind the trailing edge of the wing to keep the plane from twisting under the engine thrust. It's simple and easy to reposition for different wing shapes. You could use the bungee cord for this but I like the extra weight of the brick for stability. Test the position by attempting to rotate the plane towards the inside of the flight circle. It should resist this. Then hold your lines at the wingtip and see how hard it is to pull it out. If it's too tight move the brick back a bit. You just have to get the feel of it. The rubber holds it very secure, even my slat winged Stuntman with the TD screaming full blast is perfectly secure.

After the plane is suitably positioned, fuel and crank it. Keep the lines in your hand as you walk to your control handle. When you launch the plane, hold the handle and remove the slack. Take two or three steps backward as you pull it free(don't yank it) and the stooge will be out of the circle. Once the plane is part way out you will have elevator control. Now you're flying. Sometimes it's a little wobbly, just don't stall it with full up. I usually have full up for the first instant, just to get the nose elevated, then cut back a tad and she'll fly away and off you go.

All this must be done with a video camera so you can prove it when you have a good day. And to entertain us.

The more you use it, the more you will trust it.

Also, when flying alone, make sure you have a first aid kit and a cell phone.

Hope this helps,
Rusty

... I totally forgot about the bathmat/wing stooge. I've never tried that.. but obviously some models are built purposely with no landing gear.. and launching them without a pitman also requires some creativity.

I'm working on a take-off dolly design for small profile-fuse speed models, because of their inherent difficulty with launching. The profile fuse would have a vertical slot on it's bottom (near the c of g) and fit down in between two rails (cradle) with a cross-pin to prevent forward movement. The model's "nose" overhangs (clears) the dolly's cradle completely.. and the rear of the dolly is counter-weighted to prevent it from nosing-over.

The dolly utilizes a tail-dragger gear set-up with large diameter wheels up front and a single small wheel in the rear. I'll also make a pin-stooge link for use without a pitman.

The front struts are planned to be height-adjustable in order to adjust/increase the models' angle of attack. This should allow the model to raise up out of the cradle (clearing the cross-pin) once enough speed is gained to create the necessary lift.

Take-off dolly's have been around for a long time. This is just my idea of how one might be built a little "differently" for a certain application.. and maybe just one more way to achieve better launches in the absence of a helper. I don't want to attempt another 1/2A profi-proto speed flight without at least trying a take-off dolly.

Wing wraps work pretty good. I recommend you try one on a trainer. I use an old towel with some clamps. I plan to switch the clamps to drywall screws, but haven't needed the clamps for anything else yet.

Phil

Here's an idea from a Finnish hobby book published in 1954:



Simple, and allows you to verify the controls as it is released by pulling the elevator up

KariFS wrote:Here's an idea from a Finnish hobby book published in 1954:



Simple, and allows you to verify the controls as it is released by pulling the elevator up

That is a pretty scary setup.

I would be afraid the vibrations would shake it loose before I made it to the handle. You Finnish folks are brave souls.

Here is the super simple one I made. I patterned it after Kims

KariFS wrote:Here's an idea from a Finnish hobby book published in 1954:


Simple, and allows you to verify the controls as it is released by pulling the elevator up

When I had my Super Sports Trainer from COX back in 1974 or so (A.D.)  its manual suggested the same thing for a stooge...it never malfunctioned.

Cool thanks guys! I've got something to work with now . Hopefully i can get started flying again later this month. (The bandit is hopeful)

But wait!! Here's a pin-stooge that Brodak stocks http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/launching-devices/tru-launch-stooge.html

Here's what it looks like mounted to a very clever base. (photos courtesy of Flyboyz.com)







I want to build this one now! The only thing I'd add, are foam pads to the tail-fork faces.. (LOL) fork face.. (don't want to fork up a nice paint-job   )

You can spend the $25+ shipping for Brodak's release-pin mechanism... or build it yourself.. which is quite easy.

roddie wrote:But wait!! Here's a pin-stooge that Brodak stocks http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/launching-devices/tru-launch-stooge.html

Here's what it looks like mounted to a very clever base. (photos courtesy of Flyboyz.com)







I want to build this one now! The only thing I'd add, are foam pads to the tail-fork faces.. (LOL) fork face.. (don't want to fork up a nice paint-job   )

You can spend the $25+ shipping for Brodak's release-pin mechanism... or build it yourself.. which is quite easy.

I built one, well, sorta similar. The softer pipe insulation went over the arms perfectly, both sides of the joint have adhesive on my pipe insulation. I used plastic lumber, it worked well.

Phil

Cribbs74 wrote:That is a pretty scary setup.

I would be afraid the vibrations would shake it loose before I made it to the handle. You Finnish folks are brave souls.

...or patient enough to balance our propellers correctly

The loop probably needs to be a snug fit to the pin on the tail, and the pin has to be tilted forward a little. I haven't tried this yet, but I am going to install a pin on the tail of the Scorpion I am building, just in case.

KariFS wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:That is a pretty scary setup.

I would be afraid the vibrations would shake it loose before I made it to the handle. You Finnish folks are brave souls.

...or patient enough to balance our propellers correctly

The loop probably needs to be a snug fit to the pin on the tail, and the pin has to be tilted forward a little. I haven't tried this yet, but I am going to install a pin on the tail of the Scorpion I am building, just in case.

There's just too much chance of a false-trip with that set-up, in my opinion. Picking up the lines and walking them out to the handle could cause it. I'm also in the habit of checking my handle input when ready to launch. An elevator-actuated release wouldn't allow for that. A runaway model can have really bad consequences.

roddie wrote:

KariFS wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:That is a pretty scary setup.

I would be afraid the vibrations would shake it loose before I made it to the handle. You Finnish folks are brave souls.

...or patient enough to balance our propellers correctly

The loop probably needs to be a snug fit to the pin on the tail, and the pin has to be tilted forward a little. I haven't tried this yet, but I am going to install a pin on the tail of the Scorpion I am building, just in case.

There's just too much chance of a false-trip with that set-up, in my opinion. Picking up the lines and walking them out to the handle could cause it. I'm also in the habit of checking my handle input when ready to launch. An elevator-actuated release wouldn't allow for that. A runaway model can have really bad consequences.  

Ron and Roddie, you are probably right. Maybe I should just forget it, and build a proper stooge. I'll find a place with long grass or hay for my first flights so I'll need a helper anyway, my son is eager to help with stuff like this. If I had built the simple stooge in the picture, the first trials would have been done with my son as a backup, him holding the plane by the rudder, just in case.

I need to look at the "portable runway" concept too, as there is no dedicated c/l field nearby. Probably some thin hardboard with textile hinges and a built-in stooge.

Thanks for the words of warning, guys

OK I 've got the pic and the Brodak set up is what I am going for this year instead of repairing mine ,,,,, Got to have something to keep the plane from walking to the inside before take off I had this happen with my speed model and ended in snapping the lines and a fly away ( well into the trees ) but was scary when you are turning Rs . Was going to just mount a board to keep it in line but I really like the look and safety ! And can be used with larger models too , I have a run way that is metal (alum) Sign material So just make it and steak in the ground or attach .....And I also want to put my line in a carpenters line thing so I can reel it up or just have enough out to NOT get around my feet while flying Eric

getback wrote:OK I 've got the pic and the Brodak set up is what I am going for this year instead of repairing mine ,,,,, Got to have something to keep the plane from walking to the inside before take off I had this happen with my speed model and ended in snapping the lines and a fly away ( well into the trees ) but was scary when you are turning Rs . Was going to just mount a board to keep it in line but I really like the look and safety ! And can be used with larger models too , I have a run way that is metal (alum) Sign material So just make it and steak in the ground or attach .....And I also want to put my line in a carpenters line thing so I can reel it up or just have enough out to NOT get around my feet while flying     Eric

I had the same trouble Eric. I installed a guide-rail for the left-front wheel as a quick-fix.



I really like the idea of using a 2' x 4' sheet of pegboard as both; a pin-stooge mount and runway. Make a short guide-rail (approx. 6"L.) with a couple 1/4" hardwood dowel-pins that plug-into the pegboard holes so it could be easily re-positioned for different size airplanes. You could get real inventive.. by including a thin sheet of plastic that sits under the guide, covering the floor-area below the engine.. to keep fuel/oil from seeping into the pegboard. When it's time to pack-up, simply pull the guide-rail with plastic sheet off the pegboard and wipe it clean.

I like the "chalk-line reel" idea for the pin-release cord. Something like that you could toss back forward and out of the way from tangling/tripping-over. I wonder how many feet of "Mason's line" would fit inside a reel? At least 50 feet would be nice!

A 6' or 8' long sheet of coroplast sign board is easy to carry, can be cut or folded and ramped up at the very end. Very light weight runway.
Rusty

Upload from phone, edit at computer.

The chalk line reel holds no less than 100 ft of line.

I am using an arc welding stick, 1/8 inch, with the coating knocked off, as the pin.  The surface finish needs corrected as it is rough.  Light sanding is all it takes.  It is "mild" steel, and somewhat soft.

The holes need careful alignment and the stationary holes need over sized a little.  Currently all my holes are 1/4 inch, and it tends to stick a little before letting go of the far arm.  The near arm lets go very easily.

The arms are 10 inches long, the gap is 3 inches so a full fuse plane can be used with this.  I have used it a couple times with good results.  The arms drop very nearly together so there is no added yaw from them not being connected.

I originally had a joiner and took it out because of grass clearance and having the tail raised by the joiner was a problem.

All parts are cut out of 3/4 x 5 1/2 inch trim plastic from Lowes.  It is a foamed board, and was scrap from another project.  No reason to not use any other kind of lumber if it is fuel proofed.  

I sorta copied another design:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,36726.0.html

Phil

PS I forgot, I use a U of wire made from another SMAW stick to control the stooge cord a few feet from the stooge.  Without this the pin flies halfway back to the center at about 10 ft in the air.

PPS I drilled out the last hole in the line, the stationary outside hole, to 3/8 which seems to resolve the sticking problem.

roddie wrote:But wait!! Here's a pin-stooge that Brodak stocks http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/launching-devices/tru-launch-stooge.html

Here's what it looks like mounted to a very clever base. (photos courtesy of Flyboyz.com)







I want to build this one now! The only thing I'd add, are foam pads to the tail-fork faces.. (LOL) fork face.. (don't want to fork up a nice paint-job   )

You can spend the $25+ shipping for Brodak's release-pin mechanism... or build it yourself.. which is quite easy.

 I see this is for larger models not 1/2a or the release string will bee over the top of the stabilizer , so either a smaller version or go with the wood strip guide ? not sure yet time will tell // definitely a new release is in planes , I got the carpt. reel idea from someone else on hear Maybe Phil

KariFS wrote:
I need to look at the "portable runway" concept too, as there is no dedicated c/l field nearby. Probably some thin hardboard with textile hinges and a built-in stooge.

Thanks for the words of warning, guys

My "Portable Runway" is a few 18"x24" coroplast (corflute) signs taped together accordian style with wide filament tape to fold up for storage, then simply pull out to make the runway on the grass.  I get the signs free a week after the latest election cycle.  Oregon law here says that by seven days after an election, all campaign signs must be removed or the campaign gets fined for each sign.  On day eight, I figure any signs left on the side of the road are fair game.  Wouldn't want the campaigns to get fined, Y'know...

The Law Abiding Mark

Well, the elections are coming again, next month I think. Seen the first ads already About time we get rid of those bozos running the country, although most likely a lot of them will get re-elected. Well, in democracy, the public gets the leaders it deserves.

Up here the candidates usually put up paper and board posters (recyclable). I haven't seen any plastic signs yet, but I haven't really looked at them close. Maybe this time there's some plastic signs too Thanks for the tip.

Over here, it's sick that whoever can pour the most money into a campaign has the best chance of winning. The ones who are smartest and care most about the wellbeing of our country may not be able to afford the cost of making themselves a household name. I also hate the party system, where to survive you have to follow the party line or be ostracized. Completely counter productive, ensuring short-sighted policy planning and bandaid fixes for long term problems. Our 2016 presidential electing should start rolling any time now.