Log in
Search
Latest topics
» My N-1R build logby roddie Today at 12:32 am
» Happy 77th birthday Andrew!
by akjgardner Today at 12:27 am
» TEE DEE Having issues
by TD ABUSER Yesterday at 9:43 pm
» Landing-gear tips
by roddie Yesterday at 6:17 pm
» Roger Harris revisited
by TD ABUSER Yesterday at 2:13 pm
» Tee Dee .020 combat model
by Ken Cook Yesterday at 1:41 pm
» Retail price mark-up.. how much is enough?
by Ken Cook Yesterday at 1:37 pm
» My latest doodle...
by roddie Yesterday at 10:43 am
» Chocolate chip cookie dough.........
by roddie Fri Nov 22, 2024 1:13 pm
» Purchased the last of any bult engines from Ken Enya
by sosam117 Fri Nov 22, 2024 11:32 am
» Free Flight Radio Assist
by rdw777 Fri Nov 22, 2024 9:24 am
» Funny what you find when you go looking
by rsv1cox Wed Nov 20, 2024 3:21 pm
Cox Engine of The Month
Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Page 1 of 1
Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
When I saw this sellers picture in an ebay ad bells should have went off but they didn't. Well they did, sorta. So the flywheel is off the axle I thought, we can fix anything. Trouble is, the other half of the engines crank shaft is broken off up inside the axle.
This thing was a disaster from the beginning. Instead of the nice smooth plastic finish of my first Automite, this one is crazed like someone wiped it off with a solvent unfriendly to plastic. The engine was so gummed up that aggressive use of a heat gun was necessary to free it. I have never seen an engine this bad. The user must have filled the tank with fuel, then filled the venturi flooding the crankcase housing. This picture is after I had cleaned most of the gunk out of the housing.
When I unscrewed the cylinder the goo inside it held the piston and rotated it off the connecting rod.
The combination of dried fuel and the neoprene residue of the fuel line made a major mess that no detergent or solvent could remove. It had to be dug out.
Media blasting (aluminum oxide) cleaned everything up. But it did nothing for the broken crankshaft. I have a spare engine, but I still have to deal with the axle with the broken half of the crank inside. I can make one with the proper size steel rod, but it's drilling the hole in the rod that presents alignment problems. I don't have a lathe, but maybe if I'm careful I could do it with my drill press. Tapping the hole isn't a problem or cutting threads on the other end for the axle nut, but drilling that hole is.
Any suggestions?
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11250
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Well, Halleluiah I had two pieces of good luck. First the threaded end of the broken crankshaft was not inside the axle and I was able to use my Cox piston re-setter tool to put the Wen Mac piston back together.
The base would not work though as the Wen Mac piston is larger in diameter than the Cox.
I was also able to remove the broken crankshaft from the Automite’s engine and the crankshaft from a parts engine and replace it in the Automite.
But there is a difference. The size of the Automites crankshaft splined portion is larger than that of the replacement crank. Probably made more robust to absorb the heavy flywheel.
Also notice the intake holes are different also between the two crankshafts.
Got it all back together, but I will have to find the crankcase to cylinder gasket before I run it. Those gaskets are hard to find so I will probably have to make one.
There are differences between the two, one has the pull string start, the other doesn’t.
The base would not work though as the Wen Mac piston is larger in diameter than the Cox.
I was also able to remove the broken crankshaft from the Automite’s engine and the crankshaft from a parts engine and replace it in the Automite.
But there is a difference. The size of the Automites crankshaft splined portion is larger than that of the replacement crank. Probably made more robust to absorb the heavy flywheel.
Also notice the intake holes are different also between the two crankshafts.
Got it all back together, but I will have to find the crankcase to cylinder gasket before I run it. Those gaskets are hard to find so I will probably have to make one.
There are differences between the two, one has the pull string start, the other doesn’t.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11250
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
How did you restore the tyres? Do you know what the white crud was?
I like seeing models brought back to life.
I like seeing models brought back to life.
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 70
Location : England
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Man, that was quite a challenge. I commend you for your patience to tackle this job.
Rusty
Rusty
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Thanks, it was an effort, especially those wheels. A two day soak in Simple Green did nothing. It took a detergent, hot water and a stiff brush (a tooth brush would not do it) to remove it.
I have no idea what it was. Wasn't paint, looked like pot ash. I hope it wasn't toxic.
The instructions say to just tighten the drive wheel nut finger tight. The flywheel acts "like a clutch" until the inertia of the flywheel catches up to the engines RPM's.
I still have to take it all down again and bench test the engine before I run it. It's interesting that this one has no provisions for a driver or muffler. I still have to construct a muffler for the other one.
I have no idea what it was. Wasn't paint, looked like pot ash. I hope it wasn't toxic.
The instructions say to just tighten the drive wheel nut finger tight. The flywheel acts "like a clutch" until the inertia of the flywheel catches up to the engines RPM's.
I still have to take it all down again and bench test the engine before I run it. It's interesting that this one has no provisions for a driver or muffler. I still have to construct a muffler for the other one.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11250
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
lol, I want one!
Nice job restoring them, I love bringing these old toys back to life, never done a car, always airplanes and now you got me thinking...
Nice job restoring them, I love bringing these old toys back to life, never done a car, always airplanes and now you got me thinking...
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Yes, nice job! Maybe the crazing on the body will polish out? I used a 4" polishing wheel and Novus on the hard plastic on the Prop Rod and it worked very well.
crankbndr- Top Poster
- Posts : 3109
Join date : 2011-12-10
Location : Homestead FL
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
crankbndr wrote:Yes, nice job! Maybe the crazing on the body will polish out? I used a 4" polishing wheel and Novus on the hard plastic on the Prop Rod and it worked very well.
I saw that. I will have to revisit that thread to see the products that you used and how you did it. That was a great job.
I used glass top range cleaner and fine steel wool to remove the crazing. It came out very smooth but dull, but it was dull to begin with. A little effort with your method should help.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11250
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
Mark Boesen wrote:lol, I want one!
Nice job restoring them, I love bringing these old toys back to life, never done a car, always airplanes and now you got me thinking...
Ha Mark, LOL me, all I need is more ebay competition on these....
But...here's a good one for you. Looks like a good candidate for restoration.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ROY-RAY-COX-THIMBLE-DROME-SPECIAL-51-TOY-TETHER-CAR/261718454707?_trksid=p2047675.c100013.m1986&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131223091518%26meid%3Dbebc5ea9e8d8422e951673b2d9952662%26pid%3D100013%26prg%3D20131223091518%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D271704004849
I still have this one waiting in the wings. Testors Indy Racer. I have a much nicer one but this one has a pull starter on a wheel.
Yes, that's masking tape holding the body together. Twenty bucks and I was the only bidder. Wonder why.
I might not have bought it if I had bought the Automite first. The Testors engine looks every bit as gummed up as the nightmare Automites was, but at least the wheel isn't hanging off.
But, I just like that Automite. Looks...Butch with the 30's/40's styling.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11250
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Automite: Be happy that you didn't win this one
One of the hardest things to find for the Testors Indy car are the stickers.
This seller has repo stickers, they look nice and haven't been around long.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-SPRITE-CAR-STICKERS-/291323110268?pt=Vintage_Antique_Toys_US&hash=item43d435e37c&nma=true&si=Ah7FJ%252BeQ4XRJCBCv7hwC%252BazI4r4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
This seller has repo stickers, they look nice and haven't been around long.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-SPRITE-CAR-STICKERS-/291323110268?pt=Vintage_Antique_Toys_US&hash=item43d435e37c&nma=true&si=Ah7FJ%252BeQ4XRJCBCv7hwC%252BazI4r4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
crankbndr- Top Poster
- Posts : 3109
Join date : 2011-12-10
Location : Homestead FL
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum