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Cox Engine of The Month
cox .074 queen bee
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cox .074 queen bee
I acquired one of these engines for $20 and I have read all the bad reviews. I figured the $20 was worth it for the muffler but my question was will a norvel .074 head clamp and button style glow plug fit the queen bee cause the plug style glow plugs work great with the .049.
Geist Flieger- Gold Member
- Posts : 111
Join date : 2014-10-22
Location : Webb City, Mo
Re: cox .074 queen bee
The QB takes a .09 size glow plug you can buy hot short glow plugs to up the rpm with your existing glow plug body a 6x3 prop gets good rpm with this engine don't fret the bad reviews this is a nice RC engine on a light airframe will perform just fine for sport flying.
Read this:
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Cox%20074%20Queen%20Bee.html
Read this:
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Cox%20074%20Queen%20Bee.html
1/2A Nut- Top Poster
- Posts : 3537
Join date : 2013-10-20
Age : 61
Location : Brad in Texas
Re: cox .074 queen bee
The Norvel head clamp will not fit. But the regular glow heads for the Cox .09 fits.
These engines are not as bad as their reputation. I think most people just follow the masses and diss it before even trying it for themselves...
I once tried to start a thread here on the Forum to get some discussion about what mods to do etc. but there was very little respons. I guess very few actually ever tried to use it properly. That thread is here; Queen Bee mods
Since then I have also done the modifications to the carb to improve the low end. These are really important as the stock carb is pretty useless without any low end compensation. The engine will simply run way too rich at the low end, and the effect is similar to the newer choke/throttle that is made for the surestart engines. Sure the rpm drops, but the engine is just being choked to death...
I suspect the lack of a low end adjustment is why they went with a regular hot plug, a traditional cox head will simply not stay running when flooded like that.
The good news is that all these problems are easily fixed if you like to tinker with engines. If you mod the carb (as outlined below) you will have a fixed low end adjustment and will be able to use a regular cox style head or a Turbo plug one.
You also need to be careful about the throttle movement around full throttle. Take off the screen and check that it doesn't go past full throttle. This can be set on the throttle servo limit or by adding material to the throttle barrel.
Below are two mods to lean out the low end (drawing is not made by me). I did them step by step myself, and in the end approached something that is very similar to these dimensions;
These engines are not as bad as their reputation. I think most people just follow the masses and diss it before even trying it for themselves...
I once tried to start a thread here on the Forum to get some discussion about what mods to do etc. but there was very little respons. I guess very few actually ever tried to use it properly. That thread is here; Queen Bee mods
Since then I have also done the modifications to the carb to improve the low end. These are really important as the stock carb is pretty useless without any low end compensation. The engine will simply run way too rich at the low end, and the effect is similar to the newer choke/throttle that is made for the surestart engines. Sure the rpm drops, but the engine is just being choked to death...
I suspect the lack of a low end adjustment is why they went with a regular hot plug, a traditional cox head will simply not stay running when flooded like that.
The good news is that all these problems are easily fixed if you like to tinker with engines. If you mod the carb (as outlined below) you will have a fixed low end adjustment and will be able to use a regular cox style head or a Turbo plug one.
You also need to be careful about the throttle movement around full throttle. Take off the screen and check that it doesn't go past full throttle. This can be set on the throttle servo limit or by adding material to the throttle barrel.
Below are two mods to lean out the low end (drawing is not made by me). I did them step by step myself, and in the end approached something that is very similar to these dimensions;
Surfer_kris- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1912
Join date : 2010-11-20
Location : Sweden
Re: cox .074 queen bee
Thanx so much for the help. I wonder if a guy could thread the carb spacer and put a .09 venturi and needle housing set on the back of this engine like a rear drum engine?
Geist Flieger- Gold Member
- Posts : 111
Join date : 2014-10-22
Location : Webb City, Mo
Re: cox .074 queen bee
I'm really curious if you could thread the carb spacer and add a .05 carb to it.
Geist Flieger- Gold Member
- Posts : 111
Join date : 2014-10-22
Location : Webb City, Mo
Re: cox .074 queen bee
Good Stuff Kris , Glad I checked this out I got one a few months ago have not ran it yet , I need to get another needle or try straighten this one also no prop sc. I have the spinner. will the screen just pop of with a pry from a small screw driver. WOW I just removed the cyl. AND this engine has never been ran Cool . were can you get the shims for the cylinder ? Eric
getback- Top Poster
-
Posts : 10441
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 67
Location : julian , NC
Re: cox .074 queen bee
The screen will come off easily by prying with something sharp under the plastic clamping ring (snap fit only).
Most parts are available from Cox international, including head shims, needles and props screws etc.
Their carb also shows an airbleed hole (in the picture at least) but I haven't tried them.
Most parts are available from Cox international, including head shims, needles and props screws etc.
Their carb also shows an airbleed hole (in the picture at least) but I haven't tried them.
Surfer_kris- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1912
Join date : 2010-11-20
Location : Sweden
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