Log in
Search
Latest topics
» Cox films/videos...by Coxfledgling Today at 4:46 am
» Purchased the last of any bult engines from Ken Enya
by Coxfledgling Today at 4:18 am
» My N-1R build log
by roddie Today at 12:32 am
» Happy 77th birthday Andrew!
by akjgardner Today at 12:27 am
» TEE DEE Having issues
by TD ABUSER Yesterday at 9:43 pm
» Landing-gear tips
by roddie Yesterday at 6:17 pm
» Roger Harris revisited
by TD ABUSER Yesterday at 2:13 pm
» Tee Dee .020 combat model
by Ken Cook Yesterday at 1:41 pm
» Retail price mark-up.. how much is enough?
by Ken Cook Yesterday at 1:37 pm
» My latest doodle...
by roddie Yesterday at 10:43 am
» Chocolate chip cookie dough.........
by roddie Fri Nov 22, 2024 1:13 pm
» Free Flight Radio Assist
by rdw777 Fri Nov 22, 2024 9:24 am
Cox Engine of The Month
My E-Streaks
Page 1 of 1
My E-Streaks
Well, I got a lot of wise advice on what to do with this thing.
Mostly the advice was to just throw the wing and tail surfaces into the original fuse, mount an engine, and fly the sucker. But, if you’ve learned anything about me in my time here on the CEF, you know I don’t always follow the wise path. I did decide to just use the original fuselage, but being me, I couldn’t just do it stock. I still have a hankering for electrickery. So, I went ahead and used the Hacker motor and controller I have on hand. This is what I had to start with:
I went ahead and enlarged the mount area for the Hacker A30-8XL motor, and I made a hole in the vertical maple stick for the shaft to stick through.
Then I mounted the motor to a couple of pieces of 1/16 angle and mounted the angle to the engine bearers. Afterwards I trimmed the motor mounts, but didn’t take pictures at the time.
Then, for the battery mount, I cut a slot in the wing and made a box by using a ply plate for a shear web between the spars, and boxed in the sides.
I MonoKoted the battery area and then glued the wing in place with epoxy.
Then I put the motor mounts back in place and put some Velcro on to keep the battery from shifting. I still haven’t decided how I’m going to make the Velcro strap to keep the battery in place. Most guys use slots in the fuselage to do that, but the ARF Flite Streak fuse isn’t solid, so I can’t really afford to weaken it. I’ll figure something out. I mounted the speed controller under the outboard wing, and I’ll put the receiver under the inboard wing. I just need to get some more sticky backed Velcro before I can finish that up. But here it is mostly finished:
I have several 3S 2200mAh packs on hand from electric helis, so I’ll just fly with them for now and put up with shorter flights. I should get about 3.5 minutes with the 9x6 pusher prop that’s on there now. If I don’t like it, I have a 10x4 prop to try, but it’s not a left handed prop.
The E-Mark
Mostly the advice was to just throw the wing and tail surfaces into the original fuse, mount an engine, and fly the sucker. But, if you’ve learned anything about me in my time here on the CEF, you know I don’t always follow the wise path. I did decide to just use the original fuselage, but being me, I couldn’t just do it stock. I still have a hankering for electrickery. So, I went ahead and used the Hacker motor and controller I have on hand. This is what I had to start with:
I went ahead and enlarged the mount area for the Hacker A30-8XL motor, and I made a hole in the vertical maple stick for the shaft to stick through.
Then I mounted the motor to a couple of pieces of 1/16 angle and mounted the angle to the engine bearers. Afterwards I trimmed the motor mounts, but didn’t take pictures at the time.
Then, for the battery mount, I cut a slot in the wing and made a box by using a ply plate for a shear web between the spars, and boxed in the sides.
I MonoKoted the battery area and then glued the wing in place with epoxy.
Then I put the motor mounts back in place and put some Velcro on to keep the battery from shifting. I still haven’t decided how I’m going to make the Velcro strap to keep the battery in place. Most guys use slots in the fuselage to do that, but the ARF Flite Streak fuse isn’t solid, so I can’t really afford to weaken it. I’ll figure something out. I mounted the speed controller under the outboard wing, and I’ll put the receiver under the inboard wing. I just need to get some more sticky backed Velcro before I can finish that up. But here it is mostly finished:
I have several 3S 2200mAh packs on hand from electric helis, so I’ll just fly with them for now and put up with shorter flights. I should get about 3.5 minutes with the 9x6 pusher prop that’s on there now. If I don’t like it, I have a 10x4 prop to try, but it’s not a left handed prop.
The E-Mark
batjac- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 2375
Join date : 2013-05-22
Age : 61
Location : Broken Arrow, OK, USA
Re: My E-Streaks
Mark, does this electric stuff have more oomph than nitro? If I flew that plane on my current .25 setup that wing would fold up in flight. If the plane had some decent spars internally I would be much more confident. Ken
Ken Cook- Top Poster
- Posts : 5640
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania
Re: My E-Streaks
Here is how Watt did his Lightening Streak. A compartment inside the rib bay:
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: My E-Streaks
Ken Cook wrote: Mark, does this electric stuff have more oomph than nitro? If I flew that plane on my current .25 setup that wing would fold up in flight. If the plane had some decent spars internally I would be much more confident. Ken
That's a possibility. I thought a good while about that. I'm thinking the bigger threat is an especially rough landing, though. After I glued the wing in place, I compared how much the outboard wing twisted and bent with pressure applied as compared to the inboard wing, and didn't see any noticeable difference. We'll see how it stands up to moderate flying. this is an experiment in progress...
The Twisted Mark
batjac- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 2375
Join date : 2013-05-22
Age : 61
Location : Broken Arrow, OK, USA
Re: My E-Streaks
Looks Good! Let me know if you want me to forward any tips Patrick might have !!!
Kim- Top Poster
-
Posts : 8625
Join date : 2011-09-06
Location : South East Missouri
Re: My E-Streaks
Mark,
I have to say that's one of the cleanest electric installs I have seen. If batteries were more compact I would consider electric.
I have to say that's one of the cleanest electric installs I have seen. If batteries were more compact I would consider electric.
Cribbs74- Moderator
-
Posts : 11907
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: My E-Streaks
I think that that will be a nice set up. I have seen a similar setup on a profile Cardinal. It has been described in Aeromodeller by John Benzin.
Here it is flying
A description of the electrickery is here
It sound as if you are using RC to control the motor. I would advise investing in a timer - Hubin or Renecle - The Hubin is used with an ESC that has a governer - the Renecle can be used with any ESC.
RC offers flexibilty but it will be easy to over run the battery. Take care.
Welcome to the dark side.
Here it is flying
A description of the electrickery is here
It sound as if you are using RC to control the motor. I would advise investing in a timer - Hubin or Renecle - The Hubin is used with an ESC that has a governer - the Renecle can be used with any ESC.
RC offers flexibilty but it will be easy to over run the battery. Take care.
Welcome to the dark side.
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 70
Location : England
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum