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Post  roddie Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:39 pm

I made some tail-wheels today from 6mil (just under 1/4") sheet PVC on the CNC router. I drilled the hubs 1/8" diameter, because that was the size of the end-mill used to cut the entire wheel. I wanted a 3/32" (.093") hub, so I cut a bushing from 1/8" aluminum tubing (3/32" I.D.) on my x-acto miter box.. and inserted it into the 1/8" hub. It was a nice tight fit.. but to "secure" it in place.. I "staked" it in (both sides) with a #0 Phillips insert bit, by placing the wheel flat on my vise-anvil. and producing a light "tap" with a small hammer.

wheel hub reduction/re-size Staked10

I'm sure that you can think of other ways to use this method, when installing bushings elsewhere, that you don't want to have slip out.
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:09 pm

Good idea Roddie,

I wonder if that would work on aluminum hubs.
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Post  roddie Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:09 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Good idea Roddie,

I wonder if that would work on aluminum hubs.

I would think.. most certainly Ron. Aluminum is soft.. and this method is merely a "pinch-fit". The idea is; not to have the reducing bushing(s) "slip-out" of the hub, or wherever they're installed.. (it's a pain if/when you take things apart.. and a small bushing falls out and gets lost) They can easily be pressed-out if needed. It's important to cut the length of the bushing to the same width/thickness; "flush" with the hub.. and support the underside on an anvil when you "set" the bushing. This will assure that the bushing expands "directly" against the hub.

If you're bushing "really thin" wheels.. this is especially important.. because if the bushing "slips" on a music-wire gear.. your wheel "could" end up camber-fouling in.. and would ride-up the gear-leg. Some modelers solder steel-washers onto their music-wire gear, for the inside bearing-surface of the hub to ride up against. This helps the hub from binding where the axle bend-angle transitions to the gear-leg.


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