measurement questions

from looking at the rest for the plans not much to it , but am pretty sure the whole thing will be thickness first . Thanks Phil  

getback wrote:ok I think I am having one of thoses days , looking at some plans and getting a list for wood , is the first no. the thickness or the width ? say 1/16 x 1/4" spars ? and is the no. going to be the same for all drawings?  THANKS Eric   

I spent 20 minutes writing a good reply, and the computer dumped it!   

Just look at the bins in the hobby shop and find one with 1/4 and 1/16 on it.  It'll be labeled however the shop owner thought it should be.  I'd pull all the sticks he has in the bin and inspect each one.  Pick the hardest sticks he has, and make sure they're uniform in shape and color.  Don't worry if they're bent some.   It's almost impossible to get a 36" stick that size that is perfectly straight.  When you put it together it'll all be straight.

The   Mark

Mark thanks man sorry about the dump I have been there , Rusty says he puts it in his notepad /copy / paste I know its hard to remember ,, ill be sure to look at the wood carefully glad u reminded me even after I read the post about the diff. hardness   

If your looking for straight wood, especially stick stock your more than likely not going to find it. Cut the desired sticks from sheet balsa. Cut the wood initially with a straight edge from end to end and use a balsa stripper for the proper width. The other advantage to this especially if your building a stick and tissue fuselage is that your wood used for the fuse will have equal stresses due to coming from the same piece. This is far more accurate than selecting sticks from a hobby shop that have sizes all over the place. Your in control of the desired thickness. Ken

Looks like XA-8...

Ken Cook wrote:           If your looking for straight wood, especially stick stock your more than likely not going to find it. Cut the desired sticks from sheet balsa. Cut the wood initially with a straight edge from end to end and use a balsa stripper for the proper width. The other advantage to this especially if your building a stick and tissue fuselage is that your wood used for the fuse will have equal stresses due to coming from the same piece.  This is far more accurate than selecting sticks from a hobby shop that have sizes all over the place. Your in control of the desired thickness. Ken

Kin ya know that was my ordinal intentions, I have wood not always what u want but some is from older kits and the Midwest wood was a lot better than most the stuff u find now. This is a very small plane 13.5" wing span and I just found a wood stripper that I did nt know I had , Thanks Eric

OVERLORD wrote:Looks like XA-8...

      Got the plans cut and taped last night , the enlargement was 285% I am only 1/16 out and I cad deal with that   this baby is going to be fast ! very small. Have you built or seen one of these fly Leiven ? since you new what it was  

Hi Eric,

No I haven't seen any but I remember the thread where you asked the drawings for it. I just saw the article weeks before that on RCG. Good luck with the built.

Lieven

Geeesh... that's gonna go like a rocket ship! The most weight is in those hardwood beam engine mounts. That rudder is funky looking... but maybe it has to be that shape for stability reasons? I would use the hardest (most rigid) 1/16" sheet balsa I could find for that part.. (as well as the elevator...)  and make sure that the grain runs vertically on the rudder, as shown on the plan. Also.. note the "span-wise" grain direction of the central wing sheeting.

"Glassing" those thin 1/16" rudder and elevator parts might be a good idea.. or perhaps "Mono-kote" for some extra strength? I don't think you'll be tail-heavy too quick... by the looks of that design.

I LOVE little airplanes like this! It's gonna be a HANDFUL to fly though..  especially if you put a Tee Dee between those rails! Nice job on the plans Eric!  

P.S. There's some great reading here... and may help you in balancing this airplane.

http://www.flyinglines.org/mckay.trimming.html

well this is going to sound STUPID so a good laugh u will have on me, look at this 0-6" scale and tell me it don't start at the before  o ?    I was about to start cutting wood and looking at the plans ?? that don't look like 6" being I know about how long as that is    . I had measured the whole picture  so I thing I only have a 5"scale drawing. Eric Vaughn Zipper

getback wrote:well this is going to sound STUPID so a good laugh u will have on me, look at this 0-6" scale and tell me it don't start at the before  o ?    I was about to start cutting wood and looking at the plans ?? that don't look like 6" being I know about how long as that is    . I had measured the whole picture  so I thing I only have a 5"scale drawing. Eric Vaughn Zipper

Thanks Roddie good reading

well anyway I did find out thart I can save a lot of paper by coping and printing just the scale and that ever 15% is an 1/4" on my computer   I think 16" will be better than 13" ws Thanks   

getback wrote:

getback wrote:well this is going to sound STUPID so a good laugh u will have on me, look at this 0-6" scale and tell me it don't start at the before  o ?    I was about to start cutting wood and looking at the plans ?? that don't look like 6" being I know about how long as that is    . I had measured the whole picture  so I thing I only have a 5"scale drawing. Eric Vaughn Zipper

 Thanks Roddie good reading

I think sometimes the drawing shows a  0 to 6inch scale with divisions below the "0" mark to be able to measure 1/4inch increments, ( or whatever the smallest increments shown are), if the maker of the kit needs to measure less than 1inch.  

happydad    

   

I am a little confused Eric, are you saying that you printed too small the first time around?

That first square in that scale is just drafting silliness and should be measured from the 0-6.

Keep in mind even if you re-print just the scale line that everything needs to be increased or decreased to match. I am sure you knew that anyway.

Ron

getback wrote:

getback wrote:well this is going to sound STUPID so a good laugh u will have on me, look at this 0-6" scale and tell me it don't start at the before  o ?    I was about to start cutting wood and looking at the plans ?? that don't look like 6" being I know about how long as that is    . I had measured the whole picture  so I thing I only have a 5"scale drawing. Eric Vaughn Zipper

 Thanks Roddie good reading

Yeah, some of them have a -1" on the scale axis before the positive (right side) of the scale.  That's why you got a 285% enlargement and I got somewhere over 300% when I scaled the drawings.  Just do the cut and past of the scale again like before, and measure the 0-6" part of the scale and ignore the left-most 1" portion of the scale.

The Positive Mark

333 % was as close as it would let me get I am good with it, plans cut and taped got wood ready for tomorrow . We got ice and some more snow ill probably be home ! Thanks Mark  

Cribbs74 wrote:I am a little confused Eric, are you saying that you printed too small the first time around?

That first square in that scale is just drafting silliness and should be measured from the 0-6.

Keep in mind even if you re-print just the scale line that everything needs to be increased or decreased to match. I am sure you knew that anyway.

Ron

 Yes Ron , I measured from before the 0 witch made the drawings 1"short plane 13" small...I am at 16"now  could have been 020 size   

Nothing wrong with that. Just shorten up the lines...