Vintage Performance's LiL' FOKKER 1/2A CL Plane

That's pretty cool Travis. Even for a slab winger. Not the best trainer though. Pick up a SIG 1/2A handle or better yet a Larry Renger handle off of RSM.

It's going to be twitchy so reduce the throw as much as possible.

I'll teach you CL if you teach me RC   

Ron

I saw these on e-bay, he had another combat wing, too.

Here's the pics from his ebay listing.  It's a full flying elevator aka stabilator.

Cribbs74 wrote:I'll teach you CL if you teach me RC   

Ron

Come on up to St. Louis... any time man!

duke.johnson wrote:I saw these on e-bay, he had another combat wing, too.

Yes he does. He also mentioned these will be available as Kits, ARF and RTF.

terifron on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/terifron/m.html?item=151207265999&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Looks like he sold the Voodoo Child Combat wing....

Upon further review it looks to be built to take a good thrashing. Even if it's twitchy and you plow it in, it will probably survive to just try again.

That plane looks rugged. Launching is a challenge, but if your helper can follow instructions to hold it high, and point it slightly up and out, and make sure the lines are tight, you can do it. the first half lap is the hardest. after that you're off to the races.

For my little planes I only use 3 or 4 fingertips hooked at the first joint, with my thumb on the back and never put my knuckles all the way in it. This is my favorite 1/2A handle. I wrap it with tennis racket tape and run the line all the way through with an adjustment screw and washer in the front center hole. Just don't let the screw protrude or you'll hook a line on it at the worst of times.

That's VERY COOL!    So the ARF does come with lead-out cables installed. I love the stabilator's gusseted hinge support. Looks rugged.. yet totally functional.

Here's some handles from my collection. Like Ron recommended; a narrow line spacing will decrease sensitivity. 2" spacing is possible with the Sig and Goldberg handles.. Mark Boesen recently posted about using the Goldberg handle's "slotted indexes" as permanent attachments, if your lines are exactly equal length... (no adjustment possible though...)

The "black" handle has a 1-9/16" line-spacing.. and I believe it came with my Cox "Cosmic Wind" model. It's a "2-finger" style.. and is on the idea that Rusty mentioned.

Is the model's "push-rod" set to minimum (least sensitive) control throws on both; the bell-crank and the stabilator's horn? That's where you want it for your 1st flights.

Roddie

I found an 80's Black Widow in my collection with the plastic back plate. I'd rather break that then a metal one

WingingIt74 wrote:I found an 80's Black Widow in my collection with the plastic back plate.  I'd rather break that then a metal one

Well, there is a better chance of breaking the plastic one that's for sure. If you fly the metal one over grass it will probably be fine.

I have only ever broke one metal one and it is was a full bore dive from about 20ft straight into hard sun baked clay.

Received it today, here's some more pictures.







The Lil' Satin is slightly smaller then the Lil' Fokker.


The Lil' Fokker slightly smaller then the Combat Kitten.

We were taught to fly without landing gear over tall grass. I'd say that this was good advice.

And one other thing to try if you're using a Cox reedie: Run the engine clockwise as viewed from the front of the plane using a pusher prop.

When (not "if") you lose line tension, the plane will tend to torque over the the right which will help restore line tension.

Pretty cool!

I just noticed that the apostrophe is in the wrong place.

Hope you can fly it soon.