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Post  bnitram Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:28 am

Hi all and a happy new year!
I already have two Tee Dee's with broken carb body's. I'm thinking about building my own aluminium carb body...
I already saw some pictures from homemade alu carb body's. My only question I have:
Does the aluminium carb body also have that ledge like in the picture like the plastic one, or how was it make?

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Post  pkrankow Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:09 am

No ledge. The aluminum body is "free" to rotate and must be fastened well with the collar. You can slip a head gasket or two in to make things move easier as you assemble. I received two of my TD's that way.

I have found that the added space in the intake area can cause difficulty clearing flooding. (I was also using an obscenely large venturi bore at that time.) Timing is not affected by slight misalignment as the case cutout matching the crank cutout control timing.

Phil
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Post  bnitram Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:31 am

Thanks for answering,
That will make it a lot easier to build.
Have i understood you correctly that it gave some problems with the bigger space or was it just because you had another venturi?

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Post  pkrankow Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:04 am

I think it is was mostly the over sized venturi causing it to flood very easily. I had measured the venturis I had at the time, they are much, much larger than the recommended largest size. I cannot quote the size right now, but there is lots of space (over .010) around a 1/8 inch drill bit.

It seemed more difficult to clear flooding, even with the stock size venturi on it. With the stock size venturi we are talking about a handful of flips with the fuel off and glow on to clear, then priming and starting. I never ran a stock venturi on a plastic body for a true comparison on the same engine though.

With the bored out venturi I could get reasonable operation on the plastic body but not the aluminum body. With a stock sized venturi operation is quite easy on the aluminum body, but I don't have a plastic body to compare using the stock size venturi. I am running these engines on bladder pressure.

Phil
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Post  bnitram Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:11 pm

Ok,
thanks! I will try it out.

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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:50 pm

I can confirm the aluminum bodies have no flat spot in them to locate and have to be manually clocked correctly. However, the feeling of knowing you'll never over tighten the venturi is worth it. Plus in my opinion it makes the engine look much better. And it'll last forever. With a CNC I would say it would be very possible to replicate the original cox part exactly but not many of us have access to such a machine or the knowledge to run one. In terms of making your own though, the ones currently produced and being sold on eBay are pretty affordable. Often times cheaper than the plastic part. I personally would save time and effort and buy one. And it comes anodized and pretty right out of the package.
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Post  bnitram Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:58 pm

Thanks too. Yes you are right. Worktime and so bear no relationship to buy,but I want to design my own RC throttlet carburetor and because i'm a german, i want a metric thread and that request a self made one. It is easy for me...

bnitram

PS:
I also have a lathe and a CNC-milling machine. So it is no Problem.
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Post  G.O. Stang Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:30 pm

Oh well then more power to you! Good luck on your endeavor!
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Post  bnitram Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:54 am

Thank you.
You will hearing from me, when it is finish Smile

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Post  RknRusty Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:51 am

Phil mentioned adding a head gasket or two. Keep in mind, the aluminum units usually come with a teflon washer for the large end, but I like the copper head gasket idea better. And if I recall correctly, also a rubber o-ring for the collet end.

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Post  bnitram Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:54 am

Oh yes... You are right... I will look how i will make it...
I think i will make it in 1 or two weeks and then I will report here how it was and work..

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Post  pkrankow Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:58 am

RknRusty wrote:Phil mentioned adding a head gasket or two. Keep in mind, the aluminum units usually come with a teflon washer for the large end, but I like the copper head gasket idea better. And if I recall correctly, also a rubber o-ring for the collet end.

Rusty

Yes, they do come with the o-ring and teflon washer. The o-ring tends to bind if assembled without lubrication.

The head gasket can help prevent binding as well, and take up space so everything fits better if necessary.

Phil
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