Rust-O-Leum clearcoats (plural)

Rustoleum paints are essentially enamel aside from those indicating lacquer. The auto paint is also listed as mineral spirit cleanup leading me to believe once again enamel base. I for one just don't understand all the experimentation. Why not use what works? Although most are building 1/2A's, high class finishes can be easily attained just by using what is formulated for the hobby. Many of the speed fliers due to high nitro use http://www.klasskote.com/. While some may feel this is very expensive, when compared to traditional dope finishes it really is about the same. WIth practice, I've seen these finishes equal in weight. A little goes a long way. Unlike rattle can finishes which are constantly changing formulation and vehicle components which deliver it out the can, products like Klasskote are consistent. As for sprayers, I've seen this product sprayed with professional like results from a $5 Preval spray bottle from Home Depot.

Another option is this http://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html  Look under clear coats and also it's compatibility with other products. While most will cringe at the price, you get what you pay for. These products take out the guess work. I for one don't want to find out how my finish is now sticky and oil is creeping under it. I've been there. I've experimented with just about every product out there for the past 35 years. While I found many to be favorable, many have been removed from production or just went out of business. K&B Superpoxy was one of my favs. Nothing gave you the durability , shine, chip resistance as that paint. I feel Klasskote products even exceed the old Superpoxy.

The KBS products will work virtually over any paint system. I've seen it used but you must not be heavy handed. I've seen it applied with a spongebrush with excellent results. Although out of the price range of most, a little goes a long way and so will the duration of your models. Ken

The last time I spoke with John, he was moving back to where he recently lived. I believe he said his wife just didn't enjoy where they were located and he returned back. We exchanged several e-mails and while the website wasn't directly working he informed me that he could supply me with what I desired. Here's the link to the site again http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php I've used this paint extensively and I really learned how to use it quite well. For those interested, it takes a lot of practice and it's not very forgiving in terms of correcting runs. This paint is very unique and it achieves it depth by layering. It essentially goes on like water colors do on paper. Little by little usually by the 5-6 coat it really pops out. These coats are applied within minutes of each other.

Jerry Nelson the former owner had mentioned the use of Zinser 123 as a initial primer for the Nelson water based poly. He said the r/c crowd was very favorable of using that product. Nelson does provide a water based epoxy primer which I've used with excellent results . It sands beautifully. However, I prefer a nitrate base coat of clear then go switch to poly. The Nelson poly paints don't work with butyrate dopes and will shed off if butyrate clear is used as a base coat. Ken

2nd is a clear "Lacquer"

Well, I think I am going to stick with Butyrate dope - probably Sig for my modeling.

I have used Rustoleum clear lacquer in finishing a guitar neck - once. It did not go well, and I wound up sanding back to the previous nitro clear lacuqer. I typically wet sand with mineral spirits as a lubricant and it really softened up the Rustoleum, while leaving the nitro base below undisturbed. Apparently it is acrylic lacquer - definitely not nitro. I had similar problems with DupliColor clear lacquer (again acrylic), and their clear coat rattle can sprays - it remained sticky.

The Rustoleum clear is junk IMHO.

I think bytyrate dope should work fine and isn't any more expensive than the Rustoleum or other automotve products. Just a pain it isn't avaliable locally anymore (here at least).

One of my LHS had Aerogloss 65-4 hot fuelproof dope on the shelf last week. I didn't buy it at the time, but looked it up to find out if it was butyrate. He didn't know, he's not a modeler.  I couldn't search out an answer, can y'all tell me if it is? The ingredients listed MEK.

He had no thinner, so if I get a bottle, can I use any of my shop solvents to thin it, or even use it full strength? If it is butyrate, I was thinking of using it as a topcoat instead of Lustrekote. When I build my Skyray I'm going to paint with a Preval sprayer. For the Yak I already have rattlecan paint.

Rusty

RknRusty wrote:One of my LHS had Aerogloss 65-4 hot fuelproof dope on the shelf last week. I didn't buy it at the time, but looked it up to find out if it was butyrate. He didn't know, he's not a modeler.  I couldn't search out an answer, can y'all tell me if it is? The ingredients listed MEK.

He had no thinner, so if I get a bottle, can I use any of my shop solvents to thin it, or even use it full strength? If it is butyrate, I was thinking of using it as a topcoat instead of Lustrekote. When I build my Skyray I'm going to paint with a Preval sprayer. For the Yak I already have rattlecan paint.

Rusty

Rusty,
I thin aero gloss with acetone and have never had a problem.

Jim