How to finish a model

Dope the painted surfaces first. It is lighter than enamels and very fuel resistant. If you can only get clear locally, use that. You can build a cheap filler/primer by adding cornstarch to dope with thinner. Putt he corn starch in the thinner, mix well, then add the dope. The tolerated proportions vary wildly, but...

by volume
1-3 parts cornstarch
1 part thinner
1-2 part clear dope

It sets up in about an hour for sanding, but overnight is better (sands much easier). Only mix what you are going to use in that sitting. I don't clean my dope brushes since a splash of thinner softens them right up even after years, so one brush per color/recipe. (yes, I use different corn-starch recipes with the same brush.

Sand the dope + cornstarch all the way off. Use 400 grit start to finish, lower grit leaves lines that you need to remove. For competition finishes 400 grit is too coarse, so start and finish with 800 or 1000. Re-apply and sand off at least 2x to get a good sealed base.

For color use dope. (har har, I can't get dope either locally)

Use enamel! Rustoleum "Stop Rust", "Painter's Touch", "professional", or "automotive" all work acceptably well, if heavy. ***DO NOT USE metallic or clear as they are not fuel/exhaust proof!*** (unless electric power)

The trick to rattle can enamel is 1 coat primer, sand it most of the way off, 1 coat color, touch-up only. 2 week cure before fuel proof, so don't even put the engine on it till then.

Yes, I recommend paint before Monokote. Wait at least 48 hours before putting Monokote over enamel. Longer is better.

Monokote has good instructions.

http://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html

Start at the hard spots, work to the accessible spots. Typically this is fuselage (or about 1/2 inch from the fuselage), LE, TE, wingtip, flip and trim, fuse, LE, TE, wingtip. Cover control surfaces before hanging them. If it is a repair and there are wires/connectors that cannot come out you can cut the hinges out and cover in place carefully, then re-hinge.

I haven't covered fuselages before so not much help there. The recommendations are bottom, sides, top for cosmetic reasons.

For push rod holes make a "stamp" or patch larger than the opening and seal it down then cover the whole area. This prevents the opening from tearing out later.

Trim is easy. Mark out the desired pattern using marker, crayon, or tape. Trim out the contrasting color shapes. Seal one edge down carefully and work to the other edge. Corners need care and practice to not stretch under heat and distort.

Most films change color at the glue activation temperature. The shrink temperature is slightly higher. Monokote has very little separation between these temperatures.

Best of luck.

Phil