How do you.........

I had this happen to one of my larger RC models. I just rolled it under a table or some other shady place. The pros have wing bags and/or "tarps" they cover their planes with.

Funny, this actually helped me get one of the best flights of my life.  Back in '90 I was flying my Goldberg Electra sailplane.  I would normally get about 20-30 minute flights at the field we were flying at.  One day I had a flight of just over 2 hours and over 2500 feet.  Conditions seemed normal, nothing obvious to tell Me why I was getting so good a flight.  But, when I got scared that the receiver battery would run down and I brought it in, I found out what happened.  I had sealed the covering of the wing well at the leading and trailing edges, as well as the tips.  But, I didn't do that good a job of ironing down the covering to the ribs.  That day the heat warmed the air inside the wings and made the covering puff up and separate from the ribs.  After the wing cooled down and returned to normal, I ironed down the covering to the ribs.  It never gave another super performance again.  Apparently the expanded covering gave the wing just the right airfoil shape to turn it into a super floater.  Ah, well.

The Puffed Up Mark

I throw a beach towel over mine in the field if I can't find shade.

So the short answer is there isn't one......... Covering at the field makes sense. This happened inside the vehicle so it was shaded, but it was hot in there. The second time around I started the van up and had the AC cranking. The crappy thing is I only got one flight in before a front came through and blew me off the field. I should have flown them wrinkled!!!!!

Ron, one thing I've noticed through the years is that the easier the covering is to apply in terms of lesser heat, the more it wrinkles in the sun. Monokote for me will wrinkle but typically not as bad as lower temp coverings. This is one reason I prefer silkspan models over iron on models it's just a trade off to being a constant maintenance factor. Silkspan will also sag a little. On some of my full bodied models, I make sure there's a way for air to escape. For instance, when you build a full fuse model, you want to make sure the model breathes or condensation can form on the inside of the canopy.I've drilled very tiny holes in my canopy to stop this from happening. Making sure you have adequate holes all the way out to the tip could certainly help. I've seen silkspanned models make the covering puff up due to the gasses getting trapped inside the wing. What I'm suggesting to do and I haven't done this with iron on coverings is to provide small holes in the wing tip which would allow how air to escape out of. Our heat here can be bad this time of the year and I try and provide shade.

I had dope finishes blister in the sun because of the heat and when the model cooled it laid back down. Unfortunately, it's getting worse with each heat cycle and it's not the paint blistering from the covering but rather the covering from the model. Ken

Alot of the wrinkling could be due to inadequate stretching of the covering, when applied to the model, initially. This means: your covering should be near drum-tight before you shrink it down, everywhere, the first time it is applied. Now, you just have to kind of deal with it. Sorry.