Baby Brothers

For lead out guides take some pop-rivets, say 1/8 inch, knock the nail out of them and glue them into the wing where they belong.  You probably want to rough them with some sandpaper first.  Aluminum or steel shouldn't make much difference.

On the beginner since the guides are drilled through the wing brace this is super easy.  



On open-lead wings I have been tying an eyelet (available from Brodak) to make a large loop with heavy  spectra fishing line.  The loop has to be big enough to go in, through the bell crank, out, and pass the eyelet through.  Since AMA recommends a doubled Uni-knot this scheme works very easy.  Since the eyelets are tied on off the airplane getting the lengths very very similar is quite easy, but may take a couple tries.  Using Dacron is the same basic deal.  

Be extra careful with dacron or spectra around a heat gun or iron.  

On the baby you probably should use brass tube as indicated.  Deburr and slightly flare the insides with something like a Phillips screwdriver.

You may want to just order a wire lead out kit from Brodak, or Bernie at coxengines.ca for the Baby, but you can use steel fishing cable or solid steel wire just the same.  The recommended diameters I would have to look up.  (AMA's website again, under document downloads http://www.modelaircraft.org/documents.aspx#competitions control line rules should have it)  

With solid wire you wrap the wire around a mandrel (10p nail or similar) and then carefully wrap the wire onto itself 6+ turns.  With the bellcrank you bend carefully through and create an oblong eye and do the same.

Phil

Hey Mark.
Your leadouts for the small stuff is real easy. I don't know about you, but I couldn't read Lieven's link.  Although I can almost figure out what these guys are talking about.

 


Use .018" to .021" braided line, to make your loops/connections, I use copper or aluimium tubing to make crimp fittings. Running the line through the tubing, then the hole in the bellcrank, back through the tubing, bend a 180 in the wire back towards the bellcrank on the outside of the tubing, then back another 180 through the inside of the of the tube agian, and then crimp in two or three places on the tube. For the other end, same thing just no bellcrank. I can shoot you a picture if you would like, when I'm home.

duke.johnson wrote:Hey Mark.  
Your leadouts for the small stuff is real easy.  I don't know about you, but I couldn't read Lieven's link.  Although I can almost figure out what these guys are talking about.

 
.

Well, it's been about 35 years since my high school French, but what it seems to say is, "Lift your leg really high or you'll catch the lines."

I think I see what you're talking about, but a pic would be helpful, Duke.

The Student Mark

Aaaaaaah Daniel Son. I'll take a picture, I have friends over for dinner tonight though. Should happen tonight. Happy to hear you caught the C/L Bird Flu.
Contagious Duke

batjac wrote:

Well, it's been about 35 years since my high school French, but what it seems to say is, "Lift your leg really high or you'll catch the lines."

Absolutely, right answer

Thanks for the translation. I was dying to know. Wish we had babes like that where I fly.

I should really learn to be patient.  I got impatient waiting for my order from Bernie to arrive with my 1/2A engine mount, so I went ahead and made one up last night for the Beginner.  Wouldn't you know, I just went to the mailbox and there was Bernie's package...    I guess I can use the engine mount on the Baby Ringmaster instead.



The Antsy Mark

Yours will work just as well as the clip-on plastic one, and it will look better.
However when I make a wood mount, I usually make the side braces taper all the way back past the LE so the nose doesn't snap off in a crash. You don't have that option with a clip-on mount.

RknRusty wrote:However when I make a wood mount, I usually make the side braces taper all the way back past the LE so the nose doesn't snap off in a crash. You don't have that option with a clip-on mount.

That's why I put 1/32 ply doublers covering the L.E. and the T.E. of the wing.  I figured those'd be likely failure points.  I was also a little leery of the 1/16 tail surfaces, so I reinforced the mating surfaces on the stab/elev.

So the Beginner is done and ready for paint. I haven't decided whether I'll keep the muffler or not, but I'll decide by the time it's ready to fly.  Now to start on the Baby.



The Beginner Mark

Excellent build so far. However, it looks like there isn't much offset on the rudder from looking at your last picture so I'd recommend using washers to shim the engine and give it some right thrust.

Shawn

sdjjadk wrote:Excellent build so far. However, it looks like there isn't much offset on the rudder from looking at your last picture so I'd recommend using washers to shim the engine and give it some right thrust.
Shawn

Thanks for looking out for me, Shawn.  But I did build in a little right thrust when I glued on the firewall. You might be able to make it out in this pic.  Between the fin and the firewall, I should have enough right thrust.  If not, testing will show me I need a little more to keep it tight on the lines.



The Offset Mark

Any chance you can add a little blocked gusset between the wing and the nacelle to further protect the nose from lateral movement?

Nice job Mark! Hope you and the family can come up to Chehalis, Wa. for the Ringmaster Flyathon in October with these planes.

batjac wrote:

Thanks for looking out for me, Shawn.  But I did build in a little right thrust when I glued on the firewall.  You might be able to make it out in this pic.  Between the fin and the firewall, I should have enough right thrust.  If not, testing will show me I need a little more to keep it tight on the lines.



The Offset Mark

Looks nice. Keep up the good work.

Shawn

Well, I put the third coat of paint on the Beginner this evening.  After it's had 24 hours to dry I'll reassemble it.  I'll get pics when it's together.

The Baby wing is framed up and end ribs glued in place, but work's been a pain so I haven't had time to work any more on it.  Maybe tomorrow evening.

But, I just remembered that there's the third Brother to cut out and assemble, the Baby Bipe.  I'll print those plans out when I get more paper.  I've run out of paper printing various C/L and R/C plans lately.

The Tired Mark

Keep your chin up Tired Mark! You should think about building the little sister, the Micro Ringmaster. I'm going to build one for a .020 pee wee.

I built a Ringmaster PT bipe, but haven't flown it because I haven't set up a way to launch yet, and haven't had useful assistance either.

It is a sharp looking plane. I did all yellow, but could use some detail.

Phil

Phil
What's the PT Bipe? I can't recall. I've seen the Beginner bipe, Baby Bipe, S-1 Size Bipe, and the Tri-plane Ringmasters.
Duke

duke.johnson wrote:Keep your chin up Tired Mark!  You should think about building the little sister, the Micro Ringmaster.  I'm going to build one for a .020 pee wee.  

I haven't seen the drawings for the Micro Ringmaster. Where would I find those? I've got a .020 with nothing to do.

The Micro Mark

Go to Stunthanger's vendor corner under PDK-Pat King kits

"primary trainer" it is all slab parts.

I'll get a pic up of it for you. I got the plans from another forum and had to scale the image.

Phil

Pictures,










It was an easy build, and practice for scaling plans.

I made the rubber band mount to match my lil wizard, it was an add-on. Still haven't flown it. I think I'll put my baby stunt bee on it when I get my stooge set up.

Phil

Got it, that's what I was calling the Beginner Bipe.