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Post  ebeneezer Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:32 am

I have just become the very proud owner of a used, TD 010 that hasn't been run since 1971. Having brought, what turned out to be a non runner off Ebay, I really want to give this one every chance. Any guidance as to how I aproach starting it would be welcome. Should I strip down it and clean it first etc. Flying
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Post  Ken Cook Fri Jan 25, 2013 4:30 am

I'm assuming the engine is free?. Engines that have been dormant like your example should be dismantled in my opinion. Not necessary to initially run, Castor oil is probably one of the best preservatives out there in terms of longevity. The problem is it works too well. Areas of concern would be in the crank. The oil gums to the point of varnish. It will release enough to allow the crank to spin, but once the engine starts making heat and rpm's this stuff will almost grab a hold of the crank not allowing for full rpm's. I personally would dismantle the engine and give those areas a good thorough cleaning. This may even require soaking the crank in a solvent to help assist with the removal and even then it may require a polishing in a drill press.

The plug would also be a concern of mine. I certainly would allow it to set in solvent to break down all the goo that formed in the element cavity prior to lighting it off. A new plug is generally always best. The TD screw in venturi would also be a area that I would explore in terms of making sure all the holes in the sprinkler are clear of congealed castor. The other area of concern would be the tank gasket. Those tanks especially at that age are prone to leaks and cracks.

Next step would be having a good fresh battery and giving the engine one to two drops of fuel in the exhaust port and see if it lights off. It should rapidly respond to that. I would then place your finger over the venturi and rotate the prop looking for fuel coming up the fuel line. Don't overchoke the engine, just watch to see the fuel enters the spraybar. Prime again and give it a flip. Getting the needle setting initially is probably the trickiest part of starting. Ken
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Post  John Goddard Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:32 am

If you're going that far be VERY careful when removing the carb body.
PS
I've started 2 used, I gummed which I stripped (hello broken carb body)
and one I just Wd40'd and ran.
Both run well the unstripped came in second in the TeeDee tach race.
Snowman
PPS
Agree with Ken re the fuel holes, the wire twist from sliced bread wrappers are
just the right size for the job.
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Post  ian1954 Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:58 am

Or buy a card of the old fashioned fuse wire in various sizes and pick the right one.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:16 am

All good advice. All I can add is to be sure you use the correct tools!!!!

The .010 cylinder can warp pretty easily if you use too much force so if it seems to be pretty stuck then stop, heat it and try again.
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Post  ado1974 Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:28 pm

the tip of the needle valve is also the correct size for cleaning the venturi holes...
... but dont damage it.

possibly a good bit of design by the cox engineers??.. or just luck lol!

i use isopropyl alcohol and a modified toothbrush to clean mine.
and always reassemble wet, i generally use a little fuel mix(the nitro and methanol will evaporate, leaving the lubricants)
you dont want your first start to end in disaster because you cleaned all the lubricant off the crank

a
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Post  ebeneezer Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:39 pm

Thanks for the help Guys, I'll let you know how it goes. What relevent tools do I need? Flying
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Post  ado1974 Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:08 pm

a pair of 010 spanners
i also use a very small hammer and special drift to take the thrust plate on/off

but most of all BE GENTLE, they are easily damaged if you are ham fisted

if you are having difficulty stop and ask(before damage is done)... there are plenty of guys here that will offer assistance

cheers
a
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