Fuel Proofing Water-Transfer Decals ?

I have had very good results on water-slide decals using Lustrekote clear gloss spray. I mask off the dried-on decal and make one very light pass with the spray and let it dry. Do that several times until it's fully glossed over and it will never fail. The slightest bit too much spray will craze the decal and cause a bubbly mess, so just be very light handed with it and make sure it's dry between coats. The last coat can be heavier. Shake that can for about 3 minutes before you start.

After it's on and dry, you can do your post flight cleanup with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol with no fear of hurting the decal. Also, mine were on top of Ultracote. I don't know anything about how your covering will react. I did this with my Li'l Jumpin' Bean and the decals were about all that was left intact before the rest of her was demolished. The Li'l Satan decals are done the same way.

Thanks Rusty !!

I'll give it a try...got plenty of that stuff laying around!

Fuel Proof Kim

The P40 shark jaws and wing stars on the
Bacaruda are covered in thinned epoxy
Kim. Big (comparatively)old oily peewee
Up front and so far completely impervious.
J

Hey John,

What do you use to thin the epoxy?

Can I answer?

I use denatured alcohol. It works okay, just be sure not to whip bubbles into it when you mix it. It doesn't add to your working time.
I've been thinking of acetone, but haven't tested it on balsa scrap yet.

Thanks Rusty!

I used Scotch which is what I had 'about the place', I drank what epoxy I didn't use too.

That explains a lot John..........

Sounds as if it might might bind-up a guy a little bit....

John Goddard wrote:I used Scotch which is what I had 'about the place', I drank what epoxy I didn't use too.

Ah yes, Natured alcohol.
Hope you added some castor oil to that epoxy to prevent binding up bearing down.