Re: REMOVED - how to remove TD .051 back cover. HELP

**RknRusty** Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:55 pm

Okay, I'll keep your MO in mind next time I'm tempted to tell you to get out the sawzall and the torch cart.

EXModelEngines Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:57 am

cribbs74 wrote:Ever consider turning the backplate into a hex drive? That way you can use an allen key.

Ron

I suppose that could be done, but having as little modifications as possible should keep pricing about the same.

Matt

EXModelEngines Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:58 am

andrew wrote:
EXModelEngines wrote:
......................I plan to modify the wrench slots and square them off.
Matt

Great idea!!!

The radius at the bottom of the slot has always been problematic. Under pressure, the wrench tends to ride up and out of the slot, either rounding off the top or popping out entirely. For backplates that are "boogered" up, I've used a flat file to square off the radius and cut the slot wide enough to remove any rounding that may have occurred.

Using a file in a vice is an excellent way to apply decent pressure. It gives you a chance to really push down and use the full depth of the slots, plus using two hands on the engine alone, I can get more "torque" to the backplate.

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts exactly.

Seems like everything we do a Tee Dee rebuild I am holding my breath about the backplate lol!

Matt

batjac Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:22 pm

Kim wrote:If you've got a flat file that matches the slots, you might try clamping IT in the vise, as it will be a little harder than the metal in the wrench and it's surface has "tread" , grip the engine with a cloth after heating, and push it onto the file while torquing it.

Woo Hoo! It works. I have a Medallion .09 I got on eBay last year, and I decided to finally get to it while taking a break from other models. It was cheap because it was seized and the plastic venturi body is oxidized and has a lot of micro cracks all over it. I did my usual cleaning of the engine to free it up, but naturally the backplate didn't want to come off so I could replace the plastic. My normal things didn't work, so a search last night came up with this idea. I used a file to square off the notches in the backplate last night, and I just came back from the garage where I used a torch to heat the backplate, and then press it against the vise chucked file to unscrew the backplate. It worked pretty as you please. And I'm mighty pleased. Thanks for the suggestion, Kim. And thanks everyone who responded to this thread, oh so long ago.

The Pretty Mark

SuperDave Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:00 am

I've never had a problem removing TD backplates using soaking in solvent, mild heat and patience.

So what the rush?

SuperDave

batjac Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:34 pm

SuperDave wrote:I've never had a problem removing TD backplates using soaking in solvent, mild heat and patience.

So what the rush?

SuperDave

Like I said, I tried my normal techniques. Soaking for a few days, heat gun, cleverly applied torque, mechanical agitation, cussing in three languages. It just wasn't coming off. That's when I resorted to the unmanly method of doing a thread search (right up there with reading the instruction manual and stopping to ask directions). But it looks nice and purty now.

REMOVED - how to remove TD .051 back cover. HELP - Page 2 333c8de8-4da3-4071-8242-8c1c404b1714_zpsdef409b8

REMOVED - how to remove TD .051 back cover. HELP - Page 2 333c8de8-4da3-4071-8242-8c1c404b1714_zpsdef409b8

I could have polished up the metal, but this is gonna be a runner, not a shelf queen. So I just made her mechanically smooth. I literally spent about a half hour just flipping her over with a prop just to listen to that sweet sound only a Cox engine with good compression makes while watching a movie last night.

The Multi-Lingual Mark

Sponsored content