Stork refinishing thread.

[JPvelo]

Built a Brodak stork about six months ago and found out the hard way that Rustoleum mettalics are not fuel proof. The finish didn't peel off or anything but it was a sticky mess. Used alcohol and elbow grease to remove the top layer and scraped the really soft stuff with a razor.
https://i.imgur.com/xF6oS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S1D79.jpg
Resprayed last night with blue Rustoleum NON METTALIC and am leaving it in the back of my suv parked in 95 degree sun all day today. I checked and it is dry to the touch and non sticky. Will report results of heated drying later on today after work.

[Kim]

Cool...I'd be VERY interested to see how this works for you and how fuel-proof it stays. Been considering Rustoleum for a while !

Kim

[andrew]

I have read that some of the Rustoleum finishes are fuel resistant and some are not. One thing I remember is that those that were successful allowed for a long drying time, sometimes up to 3 weeks.

[PV Pilot]

My recent research revealed that the Rustoleum, Krylon, Duplicolor stuff needs a urethane clear shot over top to be fuel proof to the higher percentages,,allowing for a extended drying time of the paint (3-4 weeks) before the urethane.

Match manufacturer paint to there version of there urethane clear. Rustoleum's version is called Varathane. Test before committing.

[RknRusty]

Rustoleum is what I've always used. I've heard the lighter colors of Rustoleum are more fuelproof than dark colors, but my black Li'l Satan doesn't show it(probably because it's also clear coated). As JP found out, the metallic colors are unfortunately not fuelproof. I still cover mine with Lustrekote clear gloss after at least 2 days of drying in low humidity. Sometimes I only clearcoat the front. Everything behind the wing of my Streak is red with no clear coat and it has no ill effects from the exhaust, but when I clean the plane with alcohol after flying, there is a little red on the rag. But it's still glossy.

I've never seen Varathane, but I'll look for it next time I paint. I'll be painting my Refried Bean soon and I have some Rustoleum color changing paint. I have to paint it black first. I hope it doesn't do like JP's metallic. Always lay on the clear Lustrekote in thin coats and build it up or it will craze the paint or decals underneath. I mask my water slide decals on the wings and spray them and they are permanently fuel and cleaning-alcohol proof.

[PV Pilot]

I think it's Rustoleum label is called spar varathane Rusty.

fwiw, the TF lustercoat is color coordinated with there iron-on coverings, so you get a good match when painting and covering.

What scared me into clear coating was that right on the TF Lustercoat can, it says it is only good to 15% nitro,,then adding there clear coat raises it another two percents or so.

[Cribbs74]

I think it's Rustoleum label is called spar varathane Rusty.

fwiw, the TF lustercoat is color coordinated with there iron-on coverings, so you get a good match when painting and covering.

What scared me into clear coating was that right on the TF Lustercoat can, it says it is only good to 15% nitro,,then adding there clear coat raises it another two percents or so.

I have done all mine in TF clear. I run 25-30% all day long without any issue. Not sure what it would do If I continually dumped raw fuel on it.

[RknRusty]

Not sure what it would do If I continually dumped raw fuel on it.

That's mostly what it needs to protect against. Exhaust oil isn't much problem as long as you clean the plane after use. I really don't get much fuel on them except when I'm filling a tanked Bee and it gets behind the engine on the firewall area..

[JPvelo]

Surprisingly good results so far.
https://i.imgur.com/gFGfd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b2wA7.jpg
I thought it might fish eye on the nose because it was slightly sticky after the clean up but paint looks good and is dry to the touch. Will probably bake in the car again tommorow and shoot clear on it in a couple of weeks. Any suggestions on how long to cure the clear befor exposing to fuel?

[JPvelo]

These are the products I've been using:


Let the blue cure for a good week and a half, applied the clear tonight.
Inboard side:

And the engine side:

Started to lift immediately. I suspect it has more to do with my not completely removing fuel from the plane. Will probably attach motor and fly on Friday unless someone has a good suggestion to remove paint and fuel.

[RknRusty]

I usually use the Rustoleum automotive enamel paints. The light colors resist fuel better than the dark colors, but if they are clear coated it doesn't matter. My clear coated black Satan hasn't smeared. They don't offer many colors in the automotive, but as long as it's enamel it seems to work fine.

You can try acetone to get the paint off, but it still takes elbow grease. And don't get ant elbow grease on it.

[gcb]

At the risk of a repeat, I understand that Rustoleum Clear and Metalics are not fuel proof so don't use Rustoleum Clear as the topcoat.

George

[Cribbs74]

Not sure if I mentioned this before. Sorry if it's a repeat, but I use Testors enamel to paint mine. You can brush it on or buy the spray,color choices are endless. I paint one day TF clear it the next and fly on the third day. 1 can of TF clear has lasted me through four planes and I still have a third of a can left.

It's worked really well for me. 25% fuel has no effect on the finish even though the can says 15%

I put a lot of time on my planes and can vouch for it's longevity. A can costs $5 on Amazon and arrives at your door in 2-3 days. If you bought two cans you could top coat 10 planes easily with it.

Ron

[JPvelo]

Test ran last night (my neighbors hate me) and surprisingly the parts that were not peeling seem unaffected. Will test fly shortly and intentionally expose the "good" side to raw 27% fuel and see what we get.

Just for fun here is a size comparison between the stork and the Satan. Will post video of the .051 hauling the beast around.

[RknRusty]

Wow, that's a lot more wing. How much does it weigh? The .051 should be a good match for it, but any length you can cut out of that fuel line and still reach without a kink will be helpful. The Tee Dee doesn't like to draw very far.

[SuperDave]

Too I have used Model Master's Clear topcoat varnish which provides fuel-proof protection. I used it on my Dumas "Lil Swamp Buggy after it was nearly ruined by using Z-poxy finish resin by Pacer.

Keith and I have a common experience with Z-poxy finish resin.

BTW, Pacer has terrible customer support.

[JPvelo]

Wow, that's a lot more wing. How much does it weigh? The .051 should be a good match for it, but any length you can cut out of that fuel line and still reach without a kink will be helpful. The Tee Dee doesn't like to draw very far.

Nine ounces on the nose, 36 inch span, 216 square inches and the tee dee keeps the lines super tight with a 6x3. Haven't had fuel draw problems but haven't flown it since I learned lazy eights. Will shorten the fuel line on your recommendation. It's my sons plane so I will control myself and try to keep it in one piece this time!

[JPvelo]

Well, after all my talk about the tee dee keeping the lines tight my son took off, and up, and slacklined straight in. We may never know about the fuelproofing of Rustoleum. At least my first fiberglass repair held.

[Cribbs74]

Ouch, nothing some CA and epoxy can't fix.

[RknRusty]

Awww, ouch, ohhh, I'm so sorry. That hurts to look at. You have my heartfelt sympathy for your wreckage.

[PV Pilot]

Too I have used Model Master's Clear topcoat varnish which provides fuel-proof protection. I used it on my Dumas "Lil Swamp Buggy after it was nearly ruined by using Z-poxy finish resin by Pacer.

Keith and I have a common experience with Z-poxy finish resin.

BTW, Pacer has terrible customer support.

Thanks Dave, you rebooted my sanding nightmares.

I can't see the crash pic, It's so large it extends past the forum borders. bummer.

[andrew]

I wasn't able to see the pics either, but have resized and reposted. I hope that's OK with JPvelo.

[Cribbs74]

Now that I can see the crash damage I have a suggestion for the repair.

It appears you have a split TE and possibly a LE. I had a similar issue with my Baby Ringmaster and was told by Ken Cook to use fibreglass tape and epoxy and wrap it around the split. Once cured it is super strong, I can attest to the fact it actually works. Since my own repair I have come in full bore on the nose and walked away with an unscathed plane.

Just a suggestion, you may have a better idea, just wanted to share a repair that really works well.

Ron

[JPvelo]

Thank you for resizing the photos, posting from my iPhone will post just the URL until I figure how to post them smaller. I will probably write this plane off. The trailing edge is not solid but sheet strip that that sandwiches ribs that extend all the way back. Leading edge is the same method with the addition of a 1/4 square spar that the leading edge is built around. A pain to build and a bigger pain to repair. I still have the plans and may rebuild with a more sensible wing one day. And a different finish.

[Cribbs74]

Thank you for resizing the photos, posting from my iPhone will post just the URL until I figure how to post them smaller. I will probably write this plane off. The trailing edge is not solid but sheet strip that that sandwiches ribs that extend all the way back. Leading edge is the same method with the addition of a 1/4 square spar that the leading edge is built around. A pain to build and a bigger pain to repair. I still have the plans and may rebuild with a more sensible wing one day. And a different finish.

Well, maybe for your next build then, I wish I had known about that epoxy trick the first go around as it would have saved me some headaches. That glass tape idea really strengthens those split Leading/Trailing edges up.

If you want to sell your Stork shoot me a PM. I love lost causes!

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