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Post  SuperDave Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:12 am

I have a Kenhi "Cougar"/Veco .35 stunt plane that I built in 1962. It last flew in 1978 IIRC and it was still a GREAT flyer.

While structurally sound it is in serious need of recovering. It is finished with Aero-gloss (what's that you say?) butyrate over medium weight silkspan (paper).

Has anyone tried stripping off the old covering on one of these old planes and how successful was you effort? I'd like to redo it in Ultracote synthetic covering.

As always, responses appreciated, thank you.
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:13 pm

Dave, I've done it more than I care to. I've picked it off with a #11 blade which took weeks, I've sanded it off, I've even used thinner and peeled it off. A fellow on Stunthangar did a tutorial of removing the painted silkspan. He used Dad's stripper http://www.dadseasyspray.com/. I see it's available in small containers from local hardware stores. It looked like brand new balsa when he was done with it. I've never tried it and wish I did. I just did a Sterling Skylark which took forever to redo. The main problem with mechanically removing the stuff is the divots and gouges you put in the plane. This seemed like a great way as it just bubbled and peeled away in sheets.

After my silkspan removal and Aero Gloss removal which was Bonzai Blue I had to do a oil treatment removal. If you need to do the same especially in the nose, K2R works wonders. I spray K2r http://www.k2rbrands.com/products/original.htm on the affected area and let it dry for an hour until the liquid turns to powder and brush off and reapply. I've found that nothing works better than this product and it's also convenient. I do this 2-3 times then on the last application, I place a paper towel over the powder and use a Monokote iron and this really draws the oil up out of the wood and into the paper towel. I then thoroughly wash with an acid brush and laquer thinner. I've successfully been able to repaint doing so. I'm still a silkspan dope user and only use iron on coverings for my sport weekend flyers. Ken
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:27 pm

I just went back to try and find some of that info and what seemed to be common was that builders were putting on the stripper and then placing Saran Wrap over the freshly applied stripper which expedited the removal and prevented evaporation. The one stripper that was in question was Formby's as it soaked into the wood and apparently created some compatibility problems with the new paint. After the paint removal, some were wiping down the balsa with lacquer thinner just to clean the wood from small pieces and to remove excess stripper. I found that if you drag a safety edged razor blade for instance across the stab it really cleans things well without gouging into the wood. I'm sure every little piece may not come out of the wood. Although, from what I saw in this fellows pictures it did look like it did. Ken
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Post  SuperDave Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:36 pm

+1

Thanks Ken that's what I need to read: it's ton of work that I'd rather not endure.

If I were serious about a "Cougar" I'd sooner "pop" for a new one which sells for $150 a price pretty common these days for full-sized stunter kits. Although the old one saw extensive flight time I'm sure the Veco .35, which was brand-new went I installed it, would come back to life after a through cleaning. Even mounted inverted that engine was always a breeze to start usually on the second "flip".

I'd replace other parts like the 3 1/2 ounce Veco fuel tank and the rubber wheels which have no doubt deteriorated over 50+ years.

Come to think of it I could use some "new parts" too. lol!
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:14 pm

Dave, I know how one can certainly get attached to a old plane. I hate doing this but I've had to resort to this in the past. Since the open bays become so brittle, I just carefully cut out the open bays entirely. I then clean with alcohol and begin the new iron on covering right over the old. I know it retains some weight, but at least the plane is useable again. With careful doing, especially around flaps where the hinges are, it certainly looks good. I believe RSM is kitting the Cougar still. I've bought one RSM kit which is the Mackey Lark. I'm not crazy about some of the design changes. Ken
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Post  SuperDave Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:30 pm

Ken:

I suspect that your suggestion would be a very good and practical idea.

When I built the "Cougar in '62 I used homemade sanding sealer using clear butyrate, thinner and drug store talcum powder so the plane was plenty heavy although it flew very well in AMA competitions where I placed but never won.

Removing the brittle old covering over the wing bays and replacing it with a modern "shrink" covering certainly makes sense should I try to put this plane back in the air. I seriously doubt that would add additional weight.

I'll ponder the thought before doing it.
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:53 pm

Dave, I'm still fling models my father built from that period. Assuming the hinges are good and not affected by oil soaking, I wouldn't hesitate doing it. I would certainly evaluate the plane first. As long as the motor mounts are sound and everything tank wise is up to pa, I would go for it. One advantage to placing iron on covering over the wings is the advantage of twisting the wing to correct warps. This works quite well and certainly can fix a twisted pretzel into flying condition. Ken
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Post  SuperDave Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:12 pm

Ken:

Too many modeling projects at the present time.

The "Cougar" re-hab would be a good "dark of winter" project.

Meantime I can practice doing an Ultracote covering job with the help of their excellent on-line vid. I'm currently building a "Pinto" full fuse 1/2A stunter from RSM.

It should be a beauty!
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