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Typical balsa density Empty Typical balsa density

Post  dirk gently Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:57 am

I was a it suspicious when I saw the results of weight measurements of the models I'm building, so I checked the density of balsa available from my local supplier. It came out as 0.26g/cm^3 (~ 0.15oz/cubic inch), more or less twice what I would expect.
I then checked density of balsa in a Guillow's kit that I bought, and it was also 0.26g/cm^3.

My modelling books all state that typical density of balsa that is used for models should be about 0.10g/cm^3. What density balsa are you using?
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Post  John Goddard Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:05 am

Hi Dirk
I think you've just stumbled on something the serious model builders have known for ever,
that is if building an important criteria is balsa selection.

Personally it's about this point that I zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

fall asleep safe in the knowledge that my ARTF's don't suffer from this

lol!

Oh Oh I'm probably gonna be run outta town with those pitch forks

Again

Very Happy
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Post  PV Pilot Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:13 am

As far as weight measurments,, all depends on the moisture content and whatever company's procedure is for kiln drying.

As far as density,,all depends in the area in which it grew. A dryer area, and the wood cells will grow more slowly (more closely packed together). It has a tougher time recieving water obviously in the dryer areas of growth.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:42 am

I'm preparing to scratch out a new plane with spare balsa from the LHS that I've had stacked on my table for a year. This is a high humidity area and my shop is drafty(an understatement). Should I bring it into the air-conditioned house for a few days before I start cutting parts? Do I understand correctly that it's stronger when dryer?

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:29 am

RknRusty wrote:I'm preparing to scratch out a new plane with spare balsa from the LHS that I've had stacked on my table for a year. This is a high humidity area and my shop is drafty(an understatement). Should I bring it into the air-conditioned house for a few days before I start cutting parts? Do I understand correctly that it's stronger when dryer?

You would think it would be stronger when moist. Kinda like when you try to snap off a branch from a dead tree as opposed to a green tree. Although I am not sure if it makes it stronger or weaker just more flexible.

The bigger concern when working with damp wood is when it dries it tends to warp. I would bring it inside for a few days and see what happens.

Ron
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Post  RknRusty Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:09 pm

Makes good sense, thanks. I'll lay a couple of books on the big pieces too so hopefully they dry without changing shape.

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Post  Ken Cook Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:24 pm

One thing that you can do to benefit your building is to purchase an inexpensive scale that weighs in grams and ounces. You would truly be amazed at the differences in weight between similar size sheets of balsa. In control line construction, we all know how weight can build up and certainly impact the flying characteristics. Keeping your heavier wood outboard results in less tip weight. Utilizing heavier wood when needed is a great benefit. When you can balance the model without any additional ballast and still make your target weight is quite an achievement. I'm not stating to over emphasize on the weight, just know what your dealing with and choose wisely. Ken
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Post  dirk gently Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:21 am

OK, so what balsa density you guys use? For example, what density would you select for solid balsa wing, like in the Honker?
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Post  ahrma_581 Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:02 pm

John Goddard wrote:....that is if building an important criteria is balsa selection.

Personally it's about this point that I zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

fall asleep safe in the knowledge that my ARTF's don't suffer from this

Oh, they do suffer from it. There just isn't anything you can do about it!! Airplane (in lieu of a 'crashing plane' emoticon)
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