Anyone ever try this F-82 Mustang from Brodak?

SuperDave wrote:32 3/8 span for two .049's. Built-up wing.

I have a pair of BW's that are quivering at the thought!

I have quite enough trouble starting ONE engine thank you!

I built the model. I can tell you one thing, it's bad a**. The plane builds good and flies terrific. I would make some changes though. Mine met it's demise when one of the Black Widows cut out on the down side of the wing over. This plane flies the entire pattern with authority. I strongly suggest fiberglass and epoxy at the trailing edge butt joint. The wing is quite weak there. The plane is nose heavy as well. I had to add about 3/8 oz tail weight. The gear looks to be a good design but it's quite fragile as well. The plastic wheels with the kit should be replaced and maybe just the next wire size up for gear. I flew this plane on 50 ft .008's successfully. After using .008's and feeling the pull this plane had, I strongly suggest .012's. A good set of 42' lines are a must. We actually called John Brodak after a bunch of club members flew the plane. I did buy another one and this is my suggestion. I truly believe 2 Sure Starts are the way to go. This would probably put the CG correct and would enable better runs and longer. A pair of Killer Bee Backplates would certainly give you the power and the needles would provide optimal adjustment. I have a machinist friend of mine who bushed the cases with a bronze bearings. These are going on this build. I was hoping to make something like a uniflow clunk tank in a 1oz. Sullivan tank. I truly believe this is the best modern 1/2A I recently built. I've been without mine for almost 3 yrs now. I miss it and this one is next on the bench. Another point I would like to add is you can't see the elevator. MAKE SURE YOUR HOLDING THE HANDLE CORRECTLY AND THAT YOU DIDN'T HOOK THE LINES UP WRONG. It can be a little troubling to trim for neutral due to not being able to see through the rudder. Shawn