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Post  Ken Cook Thu Sep 05, 2024 4:14 pm

I'm not one to typically mix and match paint components. I've been very lucky over the years with experiments. However, I just recently built two Vintage Performance Super Combat Streaks. I just completed and flew one this past weekend with hopes to have the other ready for Vintage Combat in New Jersey. I painted the one a solid color using a Tesla color which is the pearl white. I never sprayed a 3 stage paint job and this was a first. It came out absolutely terrific. I had some of the white base left.
The model had many many coats of brushed clear and sprayed coats prior to spraying the white base. No issues with the white, it went on perfectly and leveled to a amazing finish. Seeing I had no issues with compatibility, I figured let me use the white base as a blocker coat on the other Combat Streak as it had some dark spots and some browned edges from the laser. The other Streak is also entirely covered in silkspan. The white was sprayed and it looked spectacular. I masked it and began applying dope over the white base. Everytime I pulled the tape, the dope came with it. The white base is exceptionally hard. The white is also a catalyst type paint which uses a reducer and hardener. It's too hard and the dope wouldn't melt into it regardless of how much thinner I used.

My neighbor who provided me the paint said I should've used a etch type primer on the striped areas first which would've resolved the lifting issues. I sanded all the bad areas, remasked, sprayed and it did it again. I gave up at this point and sanded all the paint off of the model all the way back down to the wood. I then sprayed two coats of clear dope to seal and lock down the sanded areas. I sprayed white dope as a blocker coat over the entire model and some of the tight areas which still had residual color began to once again lift. At least these areas were small and only in two spots. I had to sand it all the way off this time using 600 and shot clear over it again.

At this point, I can honestly say that I was seconds away from smashing this one. I did manage to stop all lifting and now I finally after all this am able to go to color without risk of problem. Bottom line is I should've sprayed it out on a sample first
before investing all the time and material into a failed experiment.

      Lesson learned Dscn3217
Most of this issue is too much dope brushed into the intersections which causes blisters down the road when sprayed. I sanded and cut back these areas and sprayed two coats of clear to lock it down

      Lesson learned Dscn3218
The dorsal fin checked and cracked because of incompatibility of the two part and dope getting under it. I sanded all the way back down again and sealed with clear dope. I will touch these areas up with white and all will be good once again.
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Post  roddie Thu Sep 05, 2024 8:20 pm

Ken.. you deserve a lot of cred man. To share these experiences with us.. good or bad. I've learned more about control-line aero-modeling from you; than I've learned from anyone.

Finishing is definitely not my thing.. maybe cause' I've always built little airplanes.. Huh...

Regarding your Super Combat Streak(s).. Cool  Thumbs Up  My Uncle built a TF one back in..  Old Bugger ..

[from the "my kit boxes" photo archives....]

      Lesson learned Kit_bo11

I got the leftover parts-box.. probably 30-35 years ago. He told me he didn't like the design when he gave me the box..  Shocked  I don't remember his model. He may have built it when he was in the USAF. He brought home a Veco Renegade (which I now have..) that had a Super Tiger .35 on the beams; back when he flew it down in New Mexico. He still has that engine...

I'm glad that you got the finishing sorted-out Ken. I think you mentioned having better engine-runs with the full-fuse Streak.. What engines are you running?

I read your recent post about the safety thong.. and when I read that the model was a Sterling P38..... my heart sank. I have the original Sterling kit.

      Lesson learned P38-st12

There's been a good amount of control-line buzz on the forum lately.. and I'm enjoying it.
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Post  Ken Cook Fri Sep 06, 2024 4:07 am

The Combat Streak only has a 3 oz. tank compartment. That's quite small and I had to do some major surgery to achieve getting a 4 oz. tank inside. This required the F-2 former to be modified and the leading edge of the wing. In addition, this also impacted the bellcrank platform. I did away with the platform and installed a full floating bellcrank which is now secured from pine spars.

     On this particular Streak, my engine is a Enya .35 square venturi version. I received the engine in such bad condition. The screws were badly butchered. Wrist pin end pads had to be made, and it was so locked due to being underwater. It took a lot of cleaning and polishing but it seems pretty good.

       The completed Streak currently has a few engines. I first flew it with a OS Max-H .35C which is quite rare. The bolt pattern is the same as the MAX-S and I just put together a Brian Gardner ABC piston liner in that engine. But, I feel this is going out on a limb as I'm planning on using a OS LA.40 with a Davis Diesel head conversion, I found this combo to work exceptionally well with a 10x7 propeller.

On a side note, your blue box Gieseke Nobler is a exceptionally good flying plane. One of my club members Jack was good friends with Bob Gieseke. The Top Flite version uses molded shells and those shells tend to crack badly in the box, I hope yours is still good.
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Post  roddie Fri Sep 06, 2024 9:31 am

Ken Cook wrote:

         On a side note, your blue box Gieseke Nobler is a exceptionally good flying plane. One of my club members Jack was good friends with Bob Gieseke.  The Top Flite version uses molded shells and those shells tend to crack badly in the box, I hope yours is still good.

AFAIK; that kit is complete. I haven't had the box open in several years.. and it's in the bottom of a BIG box that's full of other kits and leftover-parts boxes. These molded shells; are they some sort of plastic.. or are they balsa wood?
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Post  Ken Cook Fri Sep 06, 2024 1:26 pm

In and around 1970 Top Flite started offering a few models with the pre-formed shells. The P-51 Mustang, P-40 Warhawk and the P-47 . There was also the Hawker Hurricane stunter as well as another stunter which was like a Peacemaker. In addition, there was a 1/2A or two. The warbird series were full shells and the only fuse formers used were for the motor mount crutch. The plane would shake itself apart if you didn't take precautions. When I built my Hawker Hurricane, I glued it together and it developed cracks quickly, it shook pretty bad. This type of construction requires glue blocks, strips, plywood, anywhere you can install it. Using a small strip of light fiberglass cloth over the joints followed by several coats of dope and silkspan. The Geiseke Nobler does use fuse formers but I would still beef up certain areas. The shells are balsa.
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Post  roddie Fri Sep 06, 2024 1:45 pm

Thanks for that advice Ken. Thumbs Up
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Post  TD ABUSER Fri Sep 06, 2024 2:23 pm

An old saying is MISERY LOVES COMPANY and so I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your paint struggles, Ken..... Smile
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Post  Ken Cook Fri Sep 06, 2024 4:37 pm

I spent the entire week after coming home sanding all the paint off. It was very nice looking. I had red on the top, a pearl white stripe, a black stripe and a blue stripe all mirroring each other. I used a ton of blue fine line tape. I generally paint the first color which is the darkest to the lightest. I had the plane almost ready for clear coat when this debacle took place. When I had to remove all the tapes for final clear. I tried repairing and after the second attempt it wasn't up to my standards so off it all came.

I'm not a big fan of the prettiest plane . I like the function of it. However, these two particular planes were coming out so nice, I decided to go the extra mile and make them as nice as I could. I don't have fancy spray guns, or even a decent area to paint. I paint outside and being within close proximity to neighbors, I have many things to factor in regarding time and when I'm able to do this. Neighboring windows that are open is not a good time to spray paint.
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Post  TD ABUSER Fri Sep 06, 2024 6:22 pm

Ken Cook wrote:                 I spent the entire week after coming home sanding all the paint off. It was very nice looking. I had red on the top, a pearl white stripe, a black stripe and a blue stripe all mirroring each other. I used a ton of blue fine line tape. I generally paint the first color which is the darkest to the lightest. I had the plane almost ready for clear coat when this debacle took place. When I had to remove all the tapes for final clear.  I tried repairing and after the second attempt it wasn't up to my standards so off it all came.

    I'm not a big fan of the prettiest plane . I like the function of it. However, these two particular planes were coming out so nice, I decided to go the extra mile and make them as nice as I could. I don't have fancy spray guns, or even a decent area to paint. I paint outside and being within close proximity to neighbors, I have many things to factor in regarding time and when I'm able to do this. Neighboring windows that are open is not a good  time to spray paint.

Well at least it sounds like it sanded off neatly instead of being a gummy mess.
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