Sturdi Built?

You always do your best to insure the integrity of your models. Is that elevator-horn OEM?



The instruction page is vague on the elev.-horn. Does it get secured/anchored with glue?



Has anybody commented on the bellcrank design/orientation? I know that yours follows the instructions.. but you might agree that there could be a mishap.. if the lead-out snags the pushrod at the least opportune time... not to mention being reverse in operation than conventional bellcranks which position the pushrod inboard of the pivot-point.



I need to remind myself... that these models were designed in the infancy of control-line.. and many refinements have been made since.

Yes, OEM.  They also made it in brass.  It came on the broken elevator.  The brass C/H came with the Bonanza.  Robert has made me a couple in mild steel or aluminum and drilled a hole in each.  I just pinched this one on with pliers.  A nice tight fit but I may put a drop of CA in the holes.  

I was worried about the CG with that fuselage repair but if anything even with the Babe Bee vice the Golden Bee it's nose heavy so the addition of a machine screw through the assemby would not hurt.  

But, too many irons in the fire.  I'm having a fight with myself about the Bonanza.  I really want to leave it natural, one last coat of sanding sealer then an over-all spray of either gloss or matt clear.  I always admired the Guillows stick builts left and displayed natural without covering.  And, this one could still be flown.  The really nice Zinger 6/4 is going to tilt me natural.  Not the best appearing balsa but that could be a plus.  I like the sectioned wing and the contrast of the motor mount.  The fuselage is a traced replacement.  




I really like the internal styrene windshield/windows. So much cleaner than what was supplied. Secured with formula 560 it's not going anyplace.

And, this morning Mark and I pulled the RX-7's throttle body/dynamic chamber once again to get to the fuel rail, the injectors and vacuum lines.  $50 to Mazdatrix gets me new vacuum lines which will replace the old brittle ones.  It starts right now and idles perfectly but give it gas and it dies.  Mark thinks it's vacuum, I think fuel rail and injectors.  They put more do-dads on this engine........................emissions and oil injectors which complicates.




Edit:

Oh yes, the bell crank.  Unusual design which seems to be universal throughout JW's C/L planes. He made it both in hard wood and aluminum. Angled, it's location dictated by the wooden wing brace or the plastic fuselage.  It is close.  I ensured that I bent the control rod so not to interfere, it passes well below the leadouts.  

It would be great if you flew this one.... Slap a variety of props on that Babe Bee... and see which one you like the best!!!

roddie wrote:It would be great if you flew this one.... Slap a variety of props on that Babe Bee... and see which one you like the best!!!

I have got so many of these rebuilds backed up to fly roddie I could never get to them all. Think 75+ plastic and balsa. I have only flown a few, a Baby Ringmaster clone, a couple of Cox Corsairs and an electric Bearcat. I need to dedicate a day free of everything else get out the flight box, charge the battery and line them up.

Bonanza is looking great!! …. Yes, Tuff choice to leave it natural or paint it up like the box art, That’s sharp too….The JW bellcranks are kind of unique with their different geometry from standard…. On my Firebaby I noticed the angles form a limit stop against the fuselage….. I think pretty innovative for a beginner if using the least responsive pushrod hole….The control horns are tall too, I think 3/4”, limiting throw….

rdw777 wrote:Bonanza is looking great!! …. Yes, Tuff choice to leave it natural or paint it up like the box art, That’s sharp too….The JW bellcranks are kind of unique with their different geometry from standard…. On my Firebaby I noticed the angles form a limit stop against the fuselage….. I think pretty innovative for a beginner if using the least responsive pushrod hole….The control horns are tall too, I think 3/4”,  limiting throw….

Your control horns are sitting in Washington DC's sorting facility as of today.  If they survive the political atmosphere they should be here tomorrow.  

JW's plans show the connection but they don't explain how to attach the control rod to the transverse control horn rod.  But I may have a solution.  Tap my R/C supplies.  I may have to modify.




I'm off the fence, it gets disassembled, a last coat of sanding sealer, assembled then an overall coat of clear.  There is a first for everything and I need to finish it good bad or ugly!

I need the time to solve this puzzle.  

rsv1cox wrote: Your control horns are sitting in Washington DC's sorting facility as of today.  If they survive the political atmosphere……

They should be OK….. I did make a right and a left LOL!!!!

Looking at the detail on the Bonanza plan shows a simple pass thru of the control rod thru both horns…. A little strange but hopefully it works in practice because the horns will move closer together with elevators “up” and farther apart when “down”…. Also will change angle a bit as they move up and down…. My Firebaby’s pushrod is .035 dia and I figure the Bonanza may be the same…. So the holes in the horns I made .045” for a little wiggle room without too much slop…….. Hopefully

They should be OK….. I did make a right and a left LOL!!!!

I like it, neutral right down the line.

Yes, no hard connection between the rod and the horns, allows for slippage. I believe I will have to bend each horn E/W for best movement and little binding. I'm looking forward to it. A single horn and a U rod connection between the split elevators as conventional would be too easy. But I'm wondering if that setup would work on a V tail.................. Wish I had paid better attention during Trig/Geometry classes.