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Post  roddie Fri May 10, 2024 5:13 pm

I used X1 2L. PET plastic soda-bottle, X1 lg. size flared lead-out tube and X1 length of med. size silicone fuel tubing to be connected to a coil fitted around the cylinder-head of the engine.


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240534

I drilled-out the screw-on bottle-cap to accept the flared lead-out tube. (I made a little rubber gasket for inside the cap) and "cinched-up" the silicone tubing tightly against the outer-wall of the cap to minimize the chance of leaks.

Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240532

A little vent-hole is punched in the bottom of the bottle to permit an uninterrupted flow of cooling water to the engine when the bottle is inverted.

Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240533

The inverted bottle can be bungee-strapped to a post, stake or spindle above the engine's bench-mount.
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Post  getback Sun May 12, 2024 7:35 am

Looks about ready buddy ! Very Happy Babe Bee .049 Very Happy
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Post  OVERLORD Sun May 12, 2024 11:26 am

This is very creative. What you can also use is a water container for window wipers on a car. The connections are for small tubing. On british BMC cars, the 12v pump is fixed on the lid. Using that you don't have to rely on gravity. Fiats use bags which is more complicated.
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Post  roddie Sun May 12, 2024 11:45 am

getback wrote:Looks about ready buddy ! Very Happy Babe Bee .049 Very Happy

Yes.. I'm gonna' run an engine using it today.. if the weather holds out..

The below photo is of a bench-mount that I made for running an engine that I set-up for marine use with a choke-tube and flywheel.


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240535
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Post  1/2A Nut Sun May 12, 2024 1:59 pm

Ready to fire up and do a test vid, enjoy!

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Post  roddie Sun May 12, 2024 2:24 pm

Yes Brad! Here's my test-station..


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240537

Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240536


There's over 25 min. (00:25:38) of cooling capacity using the 2L. bottle with med. size silicone fuel-line feeding a coil of 1/8" Alum. tubing. The outlet hose ID is approx. 3/32" ID and air/water temperature was 70 degrees F. A transparent (clear) bottle gives a visual reference of the water level.. and in case I wasn't watching; I placed a small inverted pan in the kitchen sink to provide an audible cue to alert me when the flow stopped... Laughing (I can't help it..)


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240539


The only thing I could improve on would be to put a little check-valve on the vent, for ease of filling. As it was; I squirted water all over the kitchen counter putting the full-bottle into its stand.
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Post  robot797 Mon May 13, 2024 10:36 am

I always use a pump up plant sprayer for water cooling tests

but I must say your way is also great
do add a valve inbetween the tank and the engine
that way you can slow the flow
some engines dont like running when to cold
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Post  rsv1cox Mon May 13, 2024 12:12 pm

Pretty cool roddie, pretty cool......... Smile
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Post  getback Mon May 13, 2024 12:19 pm

roddie wrote:Yes Brad! Here's my test-station..


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240537

Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240536


There's over 25 min. (00:25:38) of cooling capacity using the 2L. bottle with med. size silicone fuel-line feeding a coil of 1/8" Alum. tubing. The outlet hose ID is approx. 3/32" ID and air/water temperature was 70 degrees F. A transparent (clear) bottle gives a visual reference of the water level.. and in case I wasn't watching; I placed a small inverted pan in the kitchen sink to provide an audible cue to alert me when the flow stopped...  Laughing (I can't help it..)


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240539  Now that's a scientific experiment right  There ,, Looks Good !!  I Love This Forum!  

The only thing I could improve on would be to put a little check-valve on the vent, for ease of filling. As it was; I squirted water all over the kitchen counter putting the full-bottle into its stand.
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Post  roddie Mon May 13, 2024 6:26 pm

robot797 wrote:I always use a pump up plant sprayer for water cooling tests

but I must say your way is also great
do add a valve inbetween the tank and the engine
that way you can slow the flow
some engines dont like running when to cold

Hey Peter, I like that idea.. and I do have a pump-sprayer. Did you watch my vid? I don't know what to "take" from running that engine yesterday. I don't have a tach/app. to know the avg. rpm. There was a lot of steam coming off the head. Maybe it was just condensate flashing-off? I was concerned that the coil wasn't providing the level of cooling.. as compared to running an OEM Cox heat-sink.. but that's not likely. Water was flowing through the coil while the engine was running. It was the "steam".. that was freaking me out. The bench-run area had become "wet" in the 30 some-odd minutes prior to my capturing the video of the engine running.

It didn't seem like the engine was being over-cooled.. but who knows. This was my 1st "choke-tube" test... and I modified it with a velocity-stack. The velocity-stack may be key to getting more needed air through the venturi.. and into the crankcase. We'll see.











Last edited by roddie on Mon May 13, 2024 6:30 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : inserted youtube link)
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Post  rsv1cox Mon May 13, 2024 7:26 pm

Nice run roddie, I enjoyed watching it.

Steam smoke or both? Hot. Could you incooperate a fan like the Cox Corvette and others? How did you start it, pully off a starter or hand flip the flywheel?

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Post  roddie Mon May 13, 2024 8:59 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Nice run roddie, I enjoyed watching it.

Steam smoke or both?  Hot.  Could you incooperate a fan like the Cox Corvette and others?  How did you start it, pully off a starter or hand flip the flywheel?  


Hey Robert, The cranking was done via an O-ring (1/8" dia.) using my elec. starter design.. with a flywheel matching the one on the engine. This method wasn't without it's own set of problems. The O-ring wasn't held captive in my bench-run set-up. The belt was able to "slip-off".. and often at a high rate of speed. I lost the first O-ring when it flew-off and down between an inaccessible gap in the deck flooring. It flew-off several times.. and was difficult to see; laying in the grass. In a model boat; the O-ring would be held captive by the drive-system. The jet-pump test-fixture has a captive O-ring.. so I won't have to worry about that.

Here's a short vid that shows how the O-ring works using my electric-starter.




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Post  rdw777 Tue May 14, 2024 6:13 am

Nice work on testing the marine engine roddie….Your set up looks like something found in a lab!!…. Lots of fun tinkering with these things Thumbs Up
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 14, 2024 7:36 am

rdw777 wrote:Nice work on testing the marine engine roddie….Your set up looks like something found in a lab!!…. Lots of fun tinkering with these things Thumbs Up


Your set up looks like something found in a lab!!

Yes, roddie the inventor, I always read his stuff. An active inventive mind. A combination of Edison, Curie, and Lamarr.

By coincidence I watched Edison, The man on TCM yesterday and Madame Curie shortly before. And this morning listened to the Hedy Lamar story on PBS.

Hedy Lamarr, perhaps the most beautiful intelligent woman that ever lived.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=hedy+lamarr&mid=7B6409BC9F96F823D3667B6409BC9F96F823D366&FORM=VAMTRV
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Post  roddie Tue May 14, 2024 9:13 am

Thank you Robert and Robert! Tinkering can be fun.. but can also be madly frustrating. Just when you think that you've prepared for anything that could go wrong; the gremlins show themselves. There's over 25 minutes of water-flow from the 2L. bottle.. and I had to refill it before I could get the engine to run. It was 2/3 empty of that refill before the engine started and ran. That's a long time to fool with something.. not to mention the wear and tear on the crankcase from the prolonged cranking. There's the question of whether there's increased cooling with a forced-flow of water vs. the gravity-flow that my bottle delivered. Peter (robot797) mentions using the pressure from a pump-up plant sprayer when testing his coils. This would more closely replicate how a water "pick-up" tube would work while a model boat is on plane.

I did develop a technique for applying tension to the O-ring/belt with my starter; which should help me later on. I hope that I have less trouble with the jet-pump testing.
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Post  balogh Tue May 14, 2024 10:40 am

Roddie I believe the water line should be closed and cooling provided only after the engine has started and is running. The cooling while cranking the engine takes away compression heat and makes starting more difficult. On the IC engine powered boats I have seen the cooling only starts when the boat is placed in water and the propeller drives water into the intake scoop behind the prop, and through the cooling circuit.
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Post  robot797 Tue May 14, 2024 12:12 pm

roddie wrote:
robot797 wrote:I always use a pump up plant sprayer for water cooling tests

but I must say your way is also great
do add a valve inbetween the tank and the engine
that way you can slow the flow
some engines dont like running when to cold

Hey Peter, I like that idea.. and I do have a pump-sprayer. Did you watch my vid? I don't know what to "take" from running that engine yesterday. I don't have a tach/app. to know the avg. rpm. There was a lot of steam coming off the head. Maybe it was just condensate flashing-off? I was concerned that the coil wasn't providing the level of cooling.. as compared to running an OEM Cox heat-sink.. but that's not likely. Water was flowing through the coil while the engine was running. It was the "steam".. that was freaking me out. The bench-run area had become "wet" in the 30 some-odd minutes prior to my capturing the video of the engine running.

It didn't seem like the engine was being over-cooled.. but who knows. This was my 1st "choke-tube" test... and I modified it with a velocity-stack. The velocity-stack may be key to getting more needed air through the venturi.. and into the crankcase. We'll see.



looks more like oil burning of to me
I have ran cox engines hot enough to melt the backplate
and that one does not look close to that XD
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Post  roddie Tue May 14, 2024 7:26 pm

balogh wrote:Roddie I believe the water line should be closed and cooling provided only after the engine has started and is running. The cooling while cranking the engine takes away compression heat and makes starting more difficult. On the IC engine powered boats I have seen  the cooling only starts when the boat is placed in water and the propeller drives water into the intake scoop behind the prop, and through the cooling circuit.

Well that's advice that will surely help me moving forward Andras! When I run the jet-pump test; there's a cooling-hose fitting on the nozzle that will feed the coil with water.. but not until the engine is actually running.


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running Water_10

Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running Cox_5c14

I don't know............... Huh...  The Cox Sea Bee boat did not utilize any water cooling at all   Shocked .. and as far as I know; did not utilize their heat-sink either.  I don't know the time-line of when Cox started using their P/N 1970 heat-sink. I believe it was first made available on their "Sandblaster" model which may have post-dated the Sea Bee boat.


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Post  roddie Tue May 14, 2024 7:38 pm

Here's the Cox Cat. #8477/P/N 1970 heat-sink... designed to "clamp-around" their .049/.051 glowhead. A replacement part for their "Sandblaster".


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Post  roddie Thu May 16, 2024 3:07 pm

robot797 wrote:
looks more like oil burning of to me
I have ran cox engines hot enough to melt the backplate
and that one does not look close to that XD

Yea.. either that or steam.. maybe a bit of both. My muffler's red silicone body element held-up reasonably well to whatever heat there was. I doubt that it came close to the 450F rating of the material.

I don't like the grey-droplet/deposits visible in the tubing coming off the header pipe.. No doubt it's aluminum from the nose of the case due to excessive cranking. I've got to be more careful about that. On another note; I was using very old fuel. Probably not a good idea for use when trying to cold-start a freshly-configured test engine.


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240543

There's a tear near the header.. but I think that I caused that when inspecting the tubing coming off the header-pipe.


Roddie's water-cooling bottle for bench-running 20240544

The sheet-silicone tears much more easily than the sheet Butyl.. but the silicone can resist a higher level of heat.
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