Tee Dee 010 self destruction?

An exhaust deflector can also be made for .010 like this:

https://www.rcnz.com/categories/fuel-engine-parts/cox-engine-parts/cox-049-exhaust-deflector-shield/

Thank you, Levent, good idea..I already use those 049 size deflectors and may cut one for the 010, though the one I wrapped on the tank top may be easier to cut and bend..I will first see how the small air gap between the deflector and tank will insulate, then see if exhaust port direction change by shims is necessary..it still bugs me why other 010-s with similar exhaust orientation have not melted the tank? I suspect the Mecoa material is less heat resistant than the stock COX tank?

I experimented red fuel tank of Medallion and TD with soldering iron. It didn't melt nor had any heat defect, because made from delrin. However I didn't try red and black fuel tanks came with .010 any.

Red plastic venturi melted any? Is it original came with engine?

Hi Andras, how are you? I'm looking at your Cox .010 fuel tank, the same thing happened to me, but with an original Cox tank.
When I placed the acceleration restriction ring, the exhaust gases were oriented at one point and due to heating, I melted the deposit in the same way as it happens to you.
Solution:
1) Remove fuel tank.
2) Drill neatly with a bit or drill bit right in the center and in line with the cylinder.
3) Remove with a scalpel or knife, the excess of melted plastic, leaving the surface without untidiness, only the hole.
4) Take a piece of grilon, and make with a lathe or with someone who can do it, a cap fitted to the hole in the tank.
5) The upper part of the cover must be large enough to cover the projection of gases from the cylinder.
6) Place the grillon cover in the tank hole.
7) Assemble the engine and enjoy your best finish and appearance of your Cox .010.
The grilon perfectly supports the temperature, it will remain there without alterations!

I think you should contact MECOA and let them know what happened to your tank.

I also think that they are using a "cheaper" plastic to make replacement parts?
They don't have the slightly deeper "red" of the original Cox parts?

balogh wrote:Pictured here is a Mecoa replacement tank on my 010 Tee Dee after a single run of a few minutes in my cold garage. The exhaust gases blew a hole into the tank bowl that melted..




I have been using 010-s for many years and have never experienced it, at least on stock tanks...maybe the plastic Mecoa used is different? I wil say To this mabe !!!??? Not sur

But first I noticed that the cylinder seems to be badly positioned exhaust directly on the tank it should be on the side but not 90° slightly pointing towards the rear for better performance

Thank you, Mauricio and David..I already added a heat shield cut and bent from a beer can , then held in place by putting its ears between the backplate and the firewall..




The hole was plugged with a few drops of special CA glue, added from both sides..I will see how this remedy works..

the cylinder is actually badly positioned exhaust direct on the tank it should be on the side but not 90° slightly pointing towards the rear for better performance and also a better flight duration Because part of the fuel comes out without burning the model must become very oily the small aluminum plate is a simple idea but maybe could use the same material to make a small schim

Thanks David, agreed, shimming may be a way to go in changing exhaust orientation..but a reduced compression and, impact on engine performance may be high penalties...so, without changing the exhaust port and interfering with engine output, I found the simple heat shield a reasonable compromise that changes engine appearance, but heat-insulating the tank safely..

Bob, I bought these Mecoa parts years ago, and Mecoa were not quite enthusiastic even selling them to a distant buyer..I may try to let them know but doubt they will run head over heals to help me. They do not have these parts on stock any more.

balogh wrote:Thank you, Mauricio and David..I already added a heat shield cut and bent from a beer can , then held in place by putting its ears between the backplate and the firewall..




The hole was plugged with a few drops of special CA glue, added from both sides..I will see how this remedy works..

Andras, be careful with that metal screen, the engine gases are projected on it and if it touches the tank it may do additional damage. Just know that if the metal gets too hot, it will transmit it to the tank if these (screen and tank) are in contact!

Thanks, Mauricio, aluminum is among the best heat conductors, but I left a small air gap between the shield and tank that, if flushed by the airflow from the propeller -even with the cylinder in between - will hopefully keep the tank surface cool.

Please let us know if cyano glue dissolves or not with exhaust residue.

In this case there are only two solvings without melting fuel tanks and without cylinder shims:

1 - Exhaust deflector between crankcase and fuel tank.

2- A heat protector like as Andras made.

I wonder why direction of exhaust ports are manufactured in random of Cox engines.

I will check the reaction between fuel residue and CA glue, but so far it looks stable..I think early TeeDee-s and even reedies most came with exhaust pointing parralel with the crankshaft, because crank web rotation was thought to promote fuel air mixture passage in bypass ports, if these were in a plane parallel with crank web. This required an accurate setting of thread cutting in crankcase and cylinder base both so that the screwed in cylinder should see its ports looking exactly front and aft (as the COX engines all are illustrated in the COX instruction sheets), a cost item COX may have abandoned later...hence the random position of exhausr ports on later engines..

Thinking....
"The good thing about all this is that you are always entertained thinking about something"

You are right Mauricio, my friend...initially, after reslizing that my little gem was heat damaged, I was totally disappointed, but later started to think how to repair the damage and prevent it from reoccurring..and found solutions that my limited tooling allowed me to use..I do not have here friends with lathes or similar - , so this confined my actions to barn and kitchen improvisations, that may still work...I think model building and fiddling with engines have improved my problem solving skills to some extent?

balogh wrote:You are right Mauricio, my friend...initially, after reslizing that my little gem was heat damaged, I was totally disappointed, but later started to think how to repair the damage and prevent it from reoccurring..and found solutions that my limited tooling allowed me to use..I do not have here friends with lathes or similar - , so this confined my actions to barn and kitchen improvisations, that may still work...I think model building and fiddling with engines have improved my problem solving skills to some extent?

yes, I mean all of us are entertained with different challenges and that's what the hobby is all about.
When everything is resolved, when it's just about assembling and that's it, the enjoyment ends sooner and you don't have that share of pleasure, of having done it yourself, that which has your mind occupied at night, part of the day, seeing how resolve one issue or another. Once the satisfaction is achieved, it is enormous and even when the objective is not resolved, pleasure is also felt, because the whole process is great entertainment.

I am going to make one:

balogh wrote:You are right Mauricio, my friend...initially, after reslizing that my little gem was heat damaged, I was totally disappointed, but later started to think how to repair the damage and prevent it from reoccurring..and found solutions that my limited tooling allowed me to use..I do not have here friends with lathes or similar - , so this confined my actions to barn and kitchen improvisations, that may still work...I think model building and fiddling with engines have improved my problem solving skills to some extent?

Hi Andras! I'd say that you've come up with a good solution; one that would be simple for other people to duplicate, using only an aluminum can... and scissors to cut it into the deflector shape. It's lightweight.. and providing those tabs that sandwich securely in-between the firewall, makes it a "1-piece" add-on that doesn't require any hardware.

I doubt that you'll have any further melting of the tank-plastic, due to the aluminum "sinking-off" the heat and dispersing it over a much larger area. If your "tabs" are long enough, it would allow you to raise the rear-section slightly to increase the air-gap.. if it becomes necessary.

Levent Suberk wrote:I am going to make one:

Yes very good ider may not forget that a shim is used at the rear in this way it is dangerous for the crankshaf and the connecting rod the connecting rod could come out of the track inside the crankcase what you add on one side must be removed from the other i bad expérience this trouble using one made for .049 bee engine The crankcase must be adjusted the right way is to remove the cylinder measure then after adding this part the crankcase will have to be adjusted to have the same measurement