The "Silver Lining" a start

Ken Cook wrote:             Just a FYI, it's never good to paint the firewall when using a integral tanked bee. Eventually and inevitably, the fuel eats away the paint directly at the screened area and the engine sucks in paint flakes which don't happily go through the engine. They get stuck in the reed and causes a real headache. A thinned layer of epoxy is superior because it will not only make the wood resistant to oil and fuel but it hardens the screw hole area and prevents oil migration. Luan needs all the help it can get as it's very porous and it's composition of layers is considerably soft.

Good point Ken, and another reason I did not paint the mount. Right now it has three coats of sanding sealer on it, sanded between coats. Will probably get another before I mount the engine. Thinned epoxy would be best but doubt I will go there.

Looking good Bob…The white base really ties things together… Excellent work!!… I used Magnolia white acrylic craft paint just ghosted on with a really dry brush to keep the weight down on this low power set up…. Trim is Rustoleum metallic silver…. Still fiddling with the control rod and timer…Also have to make the canopy…

Beautiful Robert, I'm sending mine down to you for final finishing.

No kidding, I love the dusted finish. It just fits this model! and..........you don't have to worry about fuel goofing it all up! Can't wait to see how you do the canopy.

Bob

Done except for laying a bead of epoxy around the strut bases and lead-out guide. Forgot to add the grommets before bending the lead out music wires. Tough stuff, they don't bend easily. I will have to solder the ends closed as I could not loop the pre-assembly. When finished I will locate the CG and weigh. Kind of eager to find out what it will be.

Made the wheels out of luan, fuel tubing substitutes for collars. I decided to leave the bell crank assembly open rather than fill it in. There is no picture of the original builders installation, so he may have left it open also. If you squint really hard you could imagine a jackscrew assembly (I used a 3/48 machine screw) like they use on airliners to operate the elevator and flaps and slats.







Pictures of the original suggest a beige color, could the lighting or camera? I chose light gray, it's the Silver Lining not the beige lining.

Looks great Bob… I think it’s pretty awesome that if you miss something that is one of a kind, You end up reproducing it yourself…. If I ever get mine airborne it will re visit here… I gave it a couple of “whip” tests looking for balance, It’s a quirky little thing… The remote start switch works good … More tests…Thanks for the neat little ride…

Robert

Awesome Robert, such a nice clean build. I like your stitched hinges and slender canopy. What is the mid-point connection to your elevator control rod?

It must be light as a feather. Eager to hear about your maiden flight. Recommend over soft grass.

You have a package "Available for pickup" at your Big Springs Post office.

A little sloppy but mostly done except for the Silver Lining stencil. Got to think long and hard before I do that one. May wait for my son. I'm thinking nuts, but I have an alternative standing by.

Title may be: How to Make a Replica

Good eye on drawing up that replica Levent… Not easy to get the proportions right from just photos..,,

Silver trim looks great Bob.., I masked mine too…. The nuts may just work…. Luckily silver covers well on a light background with just a light application…. Just work high enough that pressure doesn’t blow the stencil around….The control rod in the middle hole is at 9/16”…, The whipping test shows the elevator very sensitive as might be expected on this short coupled arrangement….But there’s still balance point to play with…. Right now it’s about a third of the way from the LE on the top wing … Probably needs to go forward…

It came out at 34 grams with the battery fully charged …About 1.2 oz…. Motor produces 36 g thrust…. I wanted to keep it around 1:1 to give it some kind of chance…

Totally unnecessary to send something but a very kind gesture…. Will go to town on Monday!!

Keep me informed on how the stencil is working for you… Best wishes!

I was talking about this Robert.



Looks like a piece of foil?

Bob -
I believe that is what Robert is going to use to initiate his timer -- it looks to trip the switch on full down or close to it.

Actually, that was the basis for my question to Robert.  If your timer is activated on full down (or close) and the plane gets to porpoising, is there a chance of resetting the timer back to START if you happen to overcontrol?

a--

I have not used the timers etc. but you raise a good point! Electronics is my background but I havent played with any for model aircraft. Only the their bigger air force brothers or sisters. I think that is partly why I have been keener on CL than RC. CL is further from any work type thinking. But slowly playing with RC. Anyway, the actual subject. The Timer. I would assume it has a "one shot" circuit. Either electronic or mechanical.



Yabby

Yabby wrote:Anyway, the actual subject. The Timer.  I would assume it has a "one shot" circuit. Either electronic or mechanical.



Yabby

Yabby --
Robert talked about the timer about midway down page 3 of this thread. Essentially, the momentary switch causes an onboard capacitor to charge, saturating a MOSFET and powering up the motor. The resistor that's plugged into the socket is calibrated to drain the cap until the MOSFET cuts off -- given the known discharge curves of caps, choosing the appropriate resistance allows you to determine the time for the cap to drain sufficiently for the MOSFET to switch off. It really is a nice, low parts count circuit that does the job. The push button switch that's toggled by the strip on the pushrod is the capacitor charge button. Higher resistance, longer run times; lower resistance, shorted run times.
a--

That's right Andrew, forgot about it.  I added up 2+2 and came up with zero.  

Yes, Single li po… I’m sure similar in size also with the motor/gearbox in the AT-6….Timer goes on the other side…It has a micro switch I will try to trip with a wiper on the pushrod…It’s actually intended for free flight ….Times in 10 sec intervals up to 50 sec depending which resistor is being used..,

Weighed my S/L.



A naked thin walled tapered case Babe Bee weighs 1.76 oz, so my unhollowed out balsa add-on's really added the pounds - errr ounces,

Yes sir Bob that is correct, The metal piece on the pushrod is brass shim stock soldered on to trip the switch…It’s shaped like a ramp…

4.73 oz should be just fine for the Bee powered version and pull it with authority!!

Andrew is correct too that the switch could be tripped in flight…. If the thing was controllable flight times could be extended…. Sounds good in theory but have to see how it really works out… I know I can trip it with the plane on the ground but not sure about in air… It’s so light there’s not much to pull against..

The timer has no low voltage cut out so you would have to watch that manually…Also no over current protection…The motor pulls about 1.5 amps so I’m going to see if I can find a small 2 A fuse to put in the system

rdw777 wrote:
The timer has no low voltage cut out so you would have to watch that manually…Also no over current protection…The motor pulls about 1.5 amps so I’m going to see if I can find a small 2 A fuse to put in the system

Robert,
You might want to do a little research into PICO fuses -- there might be a solution there for you.
a--

Bob, I received the Enya .09 today!…. All I can say is wow!! And thank you!!! Totally unexpected!!!! Already thinking of projects for it…. Thank you again for the kind gesture …Big Smiles

Robert

I'm happy that you got it Robert. it will do better in your hands than in mine.

I love Enya's and have several rare examples and about every variation that Enya ever offered.  My first, a .29 still sit's on the nose of my Sterling Fledgling a model airplane that I have the most air time of any I have ever flown.  Bet if i tried to start it right now, properly prepared it would start on the first or second flip.  

Still contemplating ailerons/flaps on my S/L.  Carefully placed clipped in half common pins would make them removable. The problem is, I rounded off the trailing edges of the wings making for an awkward look. Can't fix that. Thinking.

I see Bob that you are doing the Wright Brothers' thing with the Silver Lining by tweaking the "Kitty Hawk".

Nice gift to Robert, Bob, found the Sept. 1964 engine test article:
http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Enya%2009-II%20RC.html

Don't see many early Enya's prior to the more popular and prized Enya .09-III TV.

Don't know what the contents of the Mercury 45 fuel was, but seems H.R. Warring may have been "un-doped" (no nitro fuel) in the engine based on the other Enya .09-II articles, 0.12 BHP at 12,750 RPM. Seems to closely match the Cox .09 Medallion with add-on R/C exhaust throttle rotating NVA of the day.

Enya - the engine that outlives airframes.

Bob, If you want add ailerons to fair into the finished wing you could fab up something like in the sketch below…

You would need to make it in two pieces to keep the little tip from breaking off easily… A piece of sandpaper glued to a small dowel helps in shaping curves…..Pins will work fine to attach… I’ve also used small copper wire particularly in FF models that may need adjustment but you want it to hold a setting…If you can find a piece of old thermostat cable the gauge is about right…

I’ve been looking off and on at Ken Willard’s “Breathless “ for a build or two down the road…. At 300 sq in would need a stout .049…. I think the .09 would be perfect…. Looking forward to some bench runs… Thanks for the link to the test article George …,

It reminds me a bit of my Strutz Aircrate that I rebuilt from a consignment shop purchase. I had the plan blown up to scale at Staples.

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2415



It had an Escapement system installed but no transmitter. I converted it to control line. Never flown but capable. Has an Enya .09.

Wow, That one came back from the abyss!!! Looks like it had been awfully hot or had a fire on the front….Excellent clean work on the restore …. So 8 x 6 is a good prop for the .09?…. I see Cox International had 8 x 4’s…. Think that could work for the Enya?

rdw777 wrote:Wow, That one came back from the abyss!!! Looks like it had been awfully hot or had a fire on the front….Excellent clean work on the restore …. So 8 x 6 is a good prop for the .09?…. I see Cox International had 8 x 4’s…. Think that could work for the Enya?

If I had thought Robert, I would have sent along the instructions.  Copies of pertinant parts here: Click to get a better picture.





Somewhere I have a picture of the engine when it was in the airplane, an Enya .09.  You would not believe it.  I have never seen an Enya engine that beat before.  Got to find that picture!

Found it and several more:  Over seven years ago, perhaps the most fun that I have had rebuilding a model airplane.

Wow, Bob, you really have some mid 1960's history there, a Rand motorized Galloping Ghost 3 function REM (rudder, elevator, motor control) actuator, the prized Enya .09-III TV left exhaust with a comparable Enya .09-IV TV right exhaust. Short of the Tee Dee, they were considered the most powerful engines of the day, and still are competitive with the plain bearing sport Schnuerles if propped properly.