The "Silver Lining" a start

Ken Cook wrote:             Just a FYI, it's never good to paint the firewall when using a integral tanked bee. Eventually and inevitably, the fuel eats away the paint directly at the screened area and the engine sucks in paint flakes which don't happily go through the engine. They get stuck in the reed and causes a real headache. A thinned layer of epoxy is superior because it will not only make the wood resistant to oil and fuel but it hardens the screw hole area and prevents oil migration. Luan needs all the help it can get as it's very porous and it's composition of layers is considerably soft.

Luan needs all the help it can get as it's very porous and it's composition of layers is considerably soft.

Words of wisdom.  The chimney on my bird feeder made of Luan just came apart despite me leaving drain slots and painting it elbet with a spray paint.

Just replaced it, more Luan but this time painted it with an oil-based paint.  Hot glue stuck it on - again. Lasted longer than the luan.  

You got quite a few Enya .09-III's there, Bob, quite a listing. It was amazing, 10 years ago how that it seemed the plain bearing .09's (and .15's) were going for give away prices, seemed no one was really interested in them, especially if a little grimy and rusty. That is how I got my 4 (2 with CL venturi, two with carbs). Now, seems that all the sellers want an arm and a leg for them.

(I learned recently what an "arm and a leg meant. Some years ago prior to and during the infancy of photography, if one wanted a portrait, they hired a painter. They charged by how many body parts one wanted in the painting. Adding your arm and your leg to the picture was a deluxe job, added considerably more cost. )

Back in the early 1990's, AHC was liquidating their old (NOS) unsold kit inventory. Among a few others, I bought apparently one of the earlier 30 inch Sterling Ringmaster Junior kits (original design) prior to Estes. There, they substituted for aircraft ply, luan. The fuselage sides toward the front, the planking was all luan. Took a bit more work to fill in the porosity of the wood. Usually birch ply fills in nicely and quickly. Not luan.

My 1959 model Berkeley R/C Impulse kit makes extensive use of luan in place of birch ply. Ditto with my apparently 1960's 29 inch OK Models Pilot Cessna 177 Cardinal C/L. It's fuselage sides and bulkheads are luan. My 1953 model DeBolt 34 inch R/C Kitten kit uses luan ply.

I finally worked up the courage to try stenciling this thing.

Re-read Robert's excellent instructions and let 'er rip.




Painted mostly per instructions "very little sweeping with the can, just let the paint settle"- then re-read instructions "remove weights and peel back the stencil like opening pages of a book before it dries to avoid sticking" my interpertation. Robert is very precise.



Doesn't photograph well under the high intensity LED lights in the basement storage room, but it turned out excellent. I did not dust it straight up, rather applied a couple of coats, walked away, returned and applied several more from different angles and hoped.

Very nice, clean edges and vivid enough to make me happy. Thanks Robert, considering my limited ability it worked out!

Going to let it dry for a while.

Vertical stab next.

Next morning.





Little bit of over spray (under spray) barely noticeable that got under my protection, may cover with my initials. Tail AG initials will be more difficult to apply.

Hey!… That turned out pretty good!!… High Five sir!!… Glad it worked out for you Bob… Levent’s graphic was key to getting it made…

Robert

rdw777 wrote:Hey!… That turned out pretty good!!… High Five sir!!… Glad it worked out for you Bob… Levent’s graphic was key to getting it made…

Robert

Yes, I owe a lot to both Levent and you.  I'm really happy with it and it would never have happened without your combined help.

I PM'd several here urging them to start one, so far no fire, not even smoke.    It's you, Yabby, and me.........so far.  Eric?  Others?  Not really in Kim's or Ken's serious build adventures, but fun never-the less.  As I said.....maybe five small scrap no rib balsa boards, a little glue and that clapped out Cox .049 you have hanging around.  Levent and Robert have done the hard work.

I'm building two more, think I will hang a Pee Wee on this one and build one bigger and one smaller.  And I'm pushing 85, just think what you young-un's could do.  

I think Robert a .049 version???  (You need a .049 BB? I'll send you a couple) And Levent.....talk about Superior, Excellent, and far-out................????????????

Hi Bob, I don't fly CL models because vertigo. But I want to make it for TD .010 for display purpose only. I don't know wingspan and weight for a .010 version. I searched however no information for a CL biplane all balsa sheet for a 0.10 engine.

Levent Suberk wrote:Hi Bob, I don't fly CL models because vertigo. But I want to make it for TD .010 for display purpose only. I don't know wingspan and weight for a .010 version. I searched however no information for a CL biplane all balsa sheet for a 0.010 engine.

I would think that the Manx Kitten with 10" wingspan and 2.5" wing cord for 50 sq. inches wing area would be about right sized for a .020 Pee Wee or .010 Tee Dee, no? (Although I suppose you could downscale 80% for 8" wingspan and 2" wing cord for 32 sq. inches for "right" scale.

However, it would not prevent an R/C version if properly scaled up, no?

Levent Suberk wrote:Hi Bob, I don't fly CL models because vertigo. But I want to make it for TD .010 for display purpose only. I don't know wingspan and weight for a .010 version. I searched however no information for a CL biplane all balsa sheet for a 0.10 engine.

You vertually wrote the book on this model Levent working with only a little information.

I'm thinking about this beautiful model that you assembled.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t15310-rms-titanic-lifeboat-scale-model

A model of the S/L should be so easy for you in comparison. I get dizzy anymore when I attempt C/L flying so the S/L will probably remain static until one of my grandsons or great grandsons gets ahold of it.

I just think that your S/L or your interpretation of it would be really something.

rsv1cox wrote:I get dizzy anymore when I attempt C/L flying so the S/L will probably remain static until one of my grandsons or great grandsons gets a hold of it.

Bob, with your fondness of the technology we grew up with as children, I am surprised that you don't have one of those advertised remote flying mechanisms, where the airplane was tethered on a center post with a control lever outside the circle, so the pilot could watch the plane go round and round whilst sitting or laying stationary.

rsv1cox wrote:I just think [@Levent Suberk] that your S/L or your interpretation of it would be really something.

Agreed.

Excellent idea GG

Bob, if you built one of those flying control / devices GG has suggested you `could potentially fly some models again. And you are always on the lookout for new build ideas that are interesting and different to the run of the mill models and ideas. This idea is something different to building a model itself and if it works out you might be able to fly some models with it and the worst thing that can happen is the system doesnt work real well and if thats the case, no harm done, and you will have built one and given it a go.

My completed build of the S/L is waiting for even a bad weather day to be able to fly it. We have had several weeks of storms and severe gales being right on the coast. But in a couple of weeks the days will be calm in the early mornings and late afternoons again. Once this weatrher pattern breaks Ill post back how my build of the S/L flew or maybe didnt



Yabby

Give me enough time and I'll mess anything up.  This S/L is rapidly becoming a test mule.  

Gave up on attaching the ailerons/flaps with pins.  Shucks! I wanted to bend the flap pins at a 30 degree angle simulating droop.  Not going to happen, I'm afraid of splittling the 1/16" balsa.  



Instead going this route.  Three dots of Formula 560 on each.  No way I'm holding each for a 24 hour cure, hence the masking tape.  Three dots only as I may want to remove them.  Formula 560 is like a rubberized cement, you can peel it off.  I think that the masking tape will prove stronger tearing off the stuff when I remove the tape, so I'm only doing one side first.  I'm not crafty enough Robert to extend the outer edge of the ailerons to round them off.




I think this one will become my middle build.  I can replace the .049 with a .020.  Always wondered how the mounting holes align.  Lot's of options for filling the existing holes.





Maybe I will just hang the whole Cox Cessna cowling on it.

That’s the neat thing about scratch building Bob, You can free lance it a little and make it yours….Thanks for the offer on the Bee’s, I have a few…. My CL site opportunities are very small…. I have a space beside the house for a 25’ circle and that’s about it… Hoping the electro version could go there….Still messing with it…. It’s like trying to fly a potato chip

If I were to try another one I would follow George’s suggestion and try small RC…. Would be extremely challenging…. I think you would have to treat it like a flying wing…. Reflex the tips, plates to connect top and bottom wings at the tips to act as fins, elevon control …I’ve done swept wings before but this would be like two planks coupled together.. A lot of unknowns…. Fun to think about though…

My highly modified Walt Musciano F-100 "hollow log" swept wing flying tail.  Got it as a wreck.





Running out of space to stick these things.  Apple sauce pouch cap made a nice afterburner.

The stuck on parts worked well so I did the other side.  Still might take them off.




Balance as shown.  I have space for 35' lines but 36' and your in the trees.

How about a hand toss into tall grass as a test.  Thinking not enough velocity and it would drop like a stone, but I'm thinking my son plus the S/L a little fuel and fire...................I bet it would stand on it tail go straight up loop and crash????????

GallopingGhostler wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:I get dizzy anymore when I attempt C/L flying so the S/L will probably remain static until one of my grandsons or great grandsons gets a hold of it.

Bob, with your fondness of the technology we grew up with as children, I am surprised that you don't have one of those advertised remote flying mechanisms, where the airplane was tethered on a center post with a control lever outside the circle, so the pilot could watch the plane go round and round whilst sitting or laying stationary.

rsv1cox wrote:I just think [@Levent Suberk] that your S/L or your interpretation of it would be really something.

Agreed.

A couple of months ago my son sent me a link to an ebay sale of one. NIB and it wasn't cheap. Thought I would never use it and was probably right. I declined.

Noted on the instructions that came with the Yellow WM Corsair.




Added my initials, position dictated by the slight smudge of overspray from the S/L stencil. Complete except for the AG initials on the fin. Having trouble with those. Stencils are tough, I think I could use it again.

Really nice Bob, Glad to see them working …The “R”s were practically impossible to get the upper center of the letter to show the base color…. You might take a small brush and add small dot of base if you want to define it further….

Good job!!

rdw777 wrote:Really nice Bob, Glad to see them working …The “R”s were practically impossible to get the upper center of the letter to show the base color…. You might take a small brush and add small dot of base if you want to define it further….

Good job!!

I'm having trouble with the "G" in AG Robert. The center of the G will not lay flat.  Not the stencil, it just happens to fall in the rudders valley and curls up.  Tried my moisten it option.  Don't do that!

Tried fitting a .020.  I was worried about the landing gear position, but it fit's fine.  I will just have to solder an L shaped extension on the needle.




But I'm not using that slotted screen Pee Wee, only one like it that I have.  All my other .020's are either spoken for or on airplanes, so I turned to ebay.  What has happened to Cox Pee Wee's!!!  Through the roof.  This was the most reasonable <$100 BIN so I got it.  



Also put a bid in on these.  I don't have a .020 TD.  Ends tomorrow.  



I would keep this S/L a .049, but going down-hill, after building a .020, a .010 version would be just too tiny.  A .049 slighty larger works though, so would a slightly smaller .010.

I don't think that this plane with a .049 would be controllable even on 15' lines.  ????

Bob, If you have a Monokote iron you can iron it flat… Then coax the center of the G a little negative with a small tool…It should lay flat when the rest of the stencil is weighted down after that…. You’re getting pro at this!!!

I think the SL is appropriate for 020 and 010 as is…. It’s pretty tiny as it is…. As far as flying on short lines; The last Cox rtf I received as a gift was the Mantis… Kind of cheap little thing…. I had just finished a 20 x 40 metal building that was still empty… I rigged it up for round the pole… Took a few tries to get the elevator set right but when it found it’s groove was a hoot …. Quite speedy …

"I had just finished a 20 x 40 metal building that was still empty… I rigged it up for round the pole"

I sorta did the same thing.  Cleaned out the four car garage and painted my $250 rusted out 1977 MG Midget.  True story, I used four cans of Krylon rattle can gloss white paint.  People could not believe it when I told them.  Looked factory.  






Did the engine too.





As bought.

Well, I must say that both the plane and car are beautiful. I am still in shock over painting the car with only 4 cans of paint. I never would have thought.