Cox sanwa question

4 cell dry cell holders exist with the "9V" connection.

Yeah 4.8-6.0 V is what i know of just wondering if this cox sanwa is different / I don't have anything at the moment to ck if the receiver works . But i am going to change all that out already out now , I got to go upstairs and get the larger servos for it i am going to bee taking alot of weight out of it anyway but will keep the servos the same size . Looks like i am going to bee learnign about the AR410 Rec. and the spektrum 6I at the same time and i know nothing so far about setting them up LOL

[quote="gkamysz"]4 cell dry cell holders exist with the "9V" connection.[/quot  I know that but i guess the PO made his own back then ? Just could not imagine it would work on 9V.

That receiver runs off of 4.8 to 6.0 volts.
My Cox/Sanwa Cobra radio has the same receiver in my R/C Commander.



Cox/Sanwa used (back then) the dry cell (alkaline battery) battery holder. Which had the 9 volt type connectors.
Those cells would run for 12 hours straight before you would have to change them.
The Tx on the Cobra radio also has a 9 volt type of connector.

Just use a standard R/C switch harness that would plug into the Rx. and hook up to a 4.8 volt (4 cell) Rx battery.
One more thing.
Watch out for the polarity!
The polarity on the old Cox/Sanwa/Airtronics was backwards.
The Positive (Red) is on the outside and the Negative (black) is in the center.
All of the radios nowadays have the Negative on the outside and the Positive in the center pin.

I fried too many Airtronics servos and Rx over the years because of that wiring setup.
Until Airtronics changed it over years later to the other wiring setup like the others (Futaba, Multiplex, Hitec, etc.)

Thank You that is what i was looking for

getback wrote:Thank You that is what i was looking for

Read my posting about the wiring polarity to make sure you don't fry the Rx.
Here is a photo of Airtronics remedy to correct some of their older equipment to the newer (rewired) equipment.
You could buy an adapter that can correct the polarity difference.
Take a close look on the adapter on how the wires are switched (Red and Black) on the end where the Rx plugs in so to make it acceptable for the now standardized wiring.

IF you decide to use those Cox/Sanwa servos to hook up to your Spektrum Rx also watch out for the correct polarity there or you'll have two smoking servos!



Or you can read this website and change over one of the switches you have to comply with the polarity (wiring) difference.
https://incedo.org/~sjoholmp/helis/servos/servos.html

Just remember, Cox/Sanwa/Airtronics were all the same, at one time.

Any problems with the receiver or 6i, give me a shout as I have experience with them. Not the 410, but others in that particular variation. Easy to set up in a 6i. Just to give you a little heads up, Spektrum is wired in AETR (ch#1 ailerons, ch#2elevator, ch#3 throttle, ch#4 rudder).

Thanks sosam117 I have removed the hole shebang and will replace with more up to date as soon as i can find my larger servos ? Without having to take them out of something else !! I have a few! of the old male plugin servos and receivers in and out of planes (upstairs) You can tell i have been out of RC awhile , but it is still good to know about the transfer... Thanks Chancey i will bee hitting you up for some info if i can't get it

I have a large RC sail plane that someone gave me which has a Sanwa system installed. Probably only 2-3 channel. I haven't had a close look, thinking it was probably a fairly second-rate type radio, but from the sounds of it they were a pretty useable rig.

I believe Sanwa was an Airtronics off brand. If so, I do know their systems were pretty good.

Just a history on Sanwa.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanwa_Electronic

NEW222 wrote:Just a history on Sanwa.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanwa_Electronic

I knew Lee Renaud personally.
I was a young kid back then (teen age years.)My dad (Jim McIntyre), Dan Pruss, Jack Hiner (which I still fly with) and other well known S.O.A.R. members.
Growing up in the 70's and 80's, I was able to meet and fly with what is considered our pioneers.
Sid Axelrod (Mr. Monokote), Walley Simmers (Mr. Midwest Models), The Good brothers, Joe Elgin, and many more.

I was able to build prototype planes that Lee designed before they went out into production.
I also have some planes that were never kitted. Like the Bueto (the photos below)



The Buteo was one of the last designs that Lee was working on before he pass on.
It used the wings and tail from the Oly 650 and a simplified fuse from the Aquila.
I don't have the plans (though I wish I did).
After making the prototype plane I mailed the planes back to Lee with notations on the changed needed and also what parts were made wrong.
When the kit would come out, I'd get the 1st one off the production run.
The one thing I proud of is the plane on the box of the Oly II. That is my pre-production plane I built and covered and sent the picture to Lee. Of course Lee had the rights to use the photo and that was what was used.
By the way I still have the plane, though the covering is old and brittle. (last plane - top left corner)
Photo of the Oly 99 (bottom left), 1st production kit Oly II (bottom right), and all white Oly II with Miller mod.
Google Skip Miller modification on an Aquila.



The orange and white Bueto is Gordon Pearson's (in Michigan).
The plane could be built as a glider or use the electric equipment from AstroFlight, which Lee and Boucher had an agreement with for planes designed for Astro motors. Such as the Astro Challenger.

Lee gave Pruss a deal on Airtronics radios and I got the 1st XL radio from Dan Pruss in the summer of 1980.
I still have that radio and all of the following radios from Airtronics, Including the Vision radios (with ATRAC).
The only one I never purchased was the Stylus. Too costly to purchase and by then Lee had passed away. And no more discounts.

I did upgrade to the 2.4 gig radios. The RDS-8000, the SD-6G, the SD-5G , and one Aquila-6.
You can still get the Rx and Tx from Serpent America and get good bargains on the R/C group classified in the R/C equipment.

Airtronics have been reliable to me for years. I have never had the radio fail, though I done my share of pilot errors.
The were/are still the best. (my opinion).

That's a Cool background sosam117 , sounds like you were in tight with some up and coming big names . I noticed that there are quite a few wins worldwide in competition . I remember the Airtronics radios coming out and it seemed Kraft was there biggest competitor , I may have owned the Airtronics but never a Kraft , not much money flow for the hobby at the time Had plenty of C/L witch is alot cheaper to a point I got this 2x2 at a swap meet for like 15- or something ridiculous like that i dropped it and broke the canopy off of the attachments just some glue so far Still haven't found my other servos ?!"! Looking forward to fling it , it has the hook for free flight rubber take off .

getback wrote:That's a Cool background sosam117 , sounds like you were in tight with some up and coming big names . I noticed that there are quite a few wins worldwide in competition . I remember the Airtronics radios coming out and it seemed Kraft was there biggest competitor , I may have owned the Airtronics but never a Kraft , not much money flow for the hobby at the time Had plenty of C/L witch is alot cheaper to a point I got this 2x2 at a swap meet for like 15- or something ridiculous like that i dropped it and broke the canopy off of the attachments just some glue so far Still haven't found my other servos ?!"! Looking forward to fling it , it has the hook for free flight rubber take off .

My first radio was an EK Brick two channel on channel 72.148 (1973 or so)


then I got an EK Ranger three channel on channel 72.320 (about 1976).
Have three other receivers for the ranger that are 3 channel Rx with separate plugins for servos.
Used the EK Ranger for years until 1980 when I got my 1st Airtronics radio.


My dad had Kraft radio gear. I got the EK radios from Dan Pruss because he knew of the guys that were making them.
The EK radio makers broke away from Kraft because of a difference in ideas.

It was Dan Pruss that also started me on Airtronics (radios) after EK radio got bought up by Kraft (later on).
By the way, The EK radio still works, though it is probably not tuned in as it should be?

A Cox/Sanwa 2Ch system was my first RC rig.   It was, AFAIK the very first 2ch proportional system to break below the $100 price point.  I'm pretty sure I paid 79.99 for mine after calling every hobby shop in the Denver area to find the lowest price and getting my Dad to drive me cross-town to Colfax Hobbies.  This would have been in the late 1970s, perhaps 1977-78.  I was never aware of any quality issues with my system until, with age, the servos got rather flakey, probably due to worn-out/oil contaminated pots.

As for Sanwa being a cheap down-market brand of Airtronics, I'm pretty sure that the Airtronics brand was a later DBA by Sanwa...I never heard of Airtronics for years after buying my system, and recall I was a bit surprised to learn that Airtronics WAS Sanwa.   If I had to guess, I would say they just wanted something that sounded less Japanese for the US market.

Sanwa took several measures to keep the price down:

1) The system used dry batteries.  Ni-Cads were fairly expensive, and no charger(s) needed to be provided.  Since batteries weren't included, the cost to Sanwa was only the battery holders.  Alkaline cells had higher capacity and lower weight than 70's vintage NiCads of the same size, so this economic design choice even had some upside to the modeler.  This probably lowered the price by $30 or so.

2) There was no battery meter on the transmitter, as was standard at the time.  Instead, it had 2 red LEDs (with deep sunshades  LEDs in those days were not at all bright!)...one ran constant at full brightness for reference, and the second that dimmed as battery voltage dropped. D'arsonval meter movements have always been relatively expensive components that have to be sourced from specialty manufacturers so this alone probably dropped the price by $5 or so.

3)Instead of a gimbled 2-axis stick, the system had two single-axis sticks, eliminating some fairly precise mechanical parts, and skilled assembly labor.   Not only was this cheaper, but was preferable if you were to use the system for a car or boat, as a single stick makes it harder to steer without manipulating the throttle at the same time...so they could build just one system for all applications yielding some economy of scale.  Hard to say how much this helped the price...$10 maybe?

Cost-cutting aside, the system had some pluses as well:

One really outstanding feature of the system was that the included servos were MUCH smaller and lighter than what was standard for the time, But with more than adequate torque for 1/2-A or gliders, or even cars. This was important as the system was aimed squarely at 1/2-A models.  There were some brands that had optional smaller servos available, but two of those would have cost more the the entire Sanwa system.  

The RX was also among the smallest and lightest of any brand at the time.

Most TXs of the day were largish hard-cornered boxes that served the purpose, but could only be described as clunky.   While "cheap plastic" the Sanwa TX was compact, had rounded corners, and felt ergonomically "right" in the hands.  It was light and easy to keep a grip on with one hand while you hand-launched your plane or glider with the other.  Within a few years, all the RC manufacturers had moved to ergonomic molded plastic TX cases, but the little Sanwa 2ch was a fashion leader.

Mine flew in a Q-Tee, a couple of gliders, and finally floated/rolled in a Sterling Puddle-Jumper amphibious air-boat before I got busy with college.  A couple of years out of college, I put it into a Hobby-Shack foam ARF glider, and that was when I found that the servos had developed "issues". over the years off.

For slow servo use wd40 is a water repelent électronique safe wil Not melt plastiques parts But make it more flexible very Good for old dry plastiques lube slow électroniques component somtime save water damage To potantiometer

It is a bad idea to use WD40 on the servo potentiometers.
WD40 is a lubricant but not for electrical purposes!

If you have problems with the potentiometers, clean them with methanol then use "connector Lubricate" (MS-381H)
You can get it at Walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/MILLER-STEPHENSON-MS-381H-Connector-Lubricant-Aerosol-Can-12-Oz/49794002?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075:aud-807612879&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=49794002_10000001195&wl14=MS-381H%20Connector%20lubricate&veh=sem&gclid=3502a79afabb1a1f8b27c741ebb826cb&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=3502a79afabb1a1f8b27c741ebb826cb

For the gear train it is best to a little bit of "Super Lube" multi-purpose synthetic grease.
That can be purchased at Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687?mtc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-B-D59-59_23_MATTRESSES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-059_023_009_MATTRESS_FOUND_BASE_Foundations_Bases&cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-B-D59-59_23_MATTRESSES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-059_023_009_MATTRESS_FOUND_BASE_Foundations_Bases-71700000079950421-58700006713591583-92700062210894307&gclid=6f79cc6253ca16b1d254acb9427ee16a&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=6f79cc6253ca16b1d254acb9427ee16a

I do not recommend using WD40 on any servos for "cleaning" or "lubrication".

I use "connector Lubricate" (MS-381H) on my connectors on my lipo pack connectors and motor controllers.
This helps in reducing scoring on the connectors which can increase current resistance.
It also reduces oxidation on the connectors as well (for a while -- needs to be reapplied once in awhile).

I use a Q-tip to apply the MS-381H to the potentiometers on the servos.
I spray the MS-381H onto the Q-tip, saturating the swab, then rub it on the contacts of the potentiometers on the servos.

I do not know these products but from experience I know that certain products can do more damage than good but with the wd40 I have always had good results with the slow servo in the motor in the gear in the potentiometer I test them almost immediately after applying attention to the cercuit dont spray wd40 on cercuit bord inside the servo by the way dont use selicone base lube Only the original formula wd40 It works for me for many years after After the repair works well since no more glitch wit water corrosion inside potentiomètre no more slow servo it work just fine save mony ,$$$ To spend it on more important things Because the product specialize its expensive with a single use for a single efect wd40 Is practical for many things Helps restore old fragile dry plastic For some plastic not all I don't advertise for them but I trust this product