Carl Goldberg Hi Thrust Viking

Should be - Hi risk Venture Chancey, Goldberg named it wrong.

Looks a little like the Vultures that used to circle my house in Florida.

Eager to see the final product.

I have been redrawing tail decals and going to publish here:

My Viking lasted one flight........ I never saw it again. If you don't have a large clear field, I would suggest a dethermalizer timer. Mine corkscrewed straight up spiraling, rolled out and flew level until I could no longer see it.

Sad To hear you lost a model y no wow it feel m'y self lost one lost batry in flight hope u Find it one day

You didn't say how old you are......

During my days of free flight 50 years ago I remember doing a lot of running and chasing. And yes, I had one far heavier than yours (an American Junior Baby Yank with Pee Wee 0.020 power) go missing.

If nothing else at least install a rudder R/C so you can keep it within range.

Just my thoughts.

706jim wrote:You didn't say how old you are......

If nothing else at least install a rudder R/C so you can keep it within range.

Just my thoughts.

If you are asking me, I am 42. As for the rudder suggestion, that was also a thought, but was unsure if rudder only would be alright on a plane such as this. Also, if I was to go that route, would I then have to make the tail assembly a solid fixture I guess? Thank you.

The plans probably have the tail set up as dethermalized. It probably won't be much more work to have it steerable with the dethermalize function eliminated. Both are designed to get your model home.

She is a delaicant looking little piece I am in for the ride , the BB will probably do the trick.

I have plenty of time to figure it out until I cover the model.

Tissue probably?

Finish in something Hi Viz.  I would recommend against powder blue or white.    Good luck with your build Chancey, should be ready for next summers thermals. Put your name and telephone number in/on the fuselage.

As far as R/C on the Viking...http://www.frannybrodigan.com/Goldberg_Viking.asp

Here the tail decals:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t14609-carl-goldberg-models-emblem-decals#190335

Thank you all for the compliments, help, suggestions, and decals. They are all great and really appreciated.

NEW222 wrote:Thank you all for the compliments, help, suggestions, and decals. They are all great and really appreciated.

Hi Chancey! If you decide to build it as-designed; for a dethermalizer... see if you can source a DT "timer" for the model, rather than the lighted-fuse method. Not sure how Ken's was set up.. but if it was a fuse-type DT, it may have have gone-out (extinguished) before doing its job. Those things can happen.. unfortunately.

Here's a couple of links.. but I have no experience with them.

https://www.faimodelsupply.com/product-category/timers/

http://www.texastimers.com/

Thank you roddie. All options are still on the table.

Left wing mostly framed up and drying. Once dry, I gotta set the dihedral angle and glue it in the correct place before removing it from the board. Then as was the tail, I will be gluing the bottoms of the spars.

Wing building was pretty straightforward, so never snapped a picture of the other one being built. So now, the whole tail is built, as well as the wing. As I was building each wing panel, I made a dieheral gauge/block from a piece of foam to set the correct angle. When I was joining the two wing halves, I also made 2 more of these and set the final angles, glued and allowed them to dry properly, then added the gussets where they are supposed to be on the plans. While they are still in the 'rough', they will remain that way till spring when I can go outside and sand them. Next up will defiantely be the fuselage as that is all that remains. I am hoping to start that this weekend. More pictures to follow.

Looking Good Chancey , weird how the wing spars cross at an angle in the sections . Its moving along pretty fast for now / shame you have to wait so long to get the sanding done .

Friend  of mine built one of those when we were kids.  We lived up on a hill surrounded by open fields. It's first flight was also the last we saw of it! We were clueless as to setting a turn into control surfaces. Filled the tank on the Babe Bee and let it go. It was gaining altitude and clearing a big woods the last we saw of it headed NW. Everytime I drive past that wooded ridge I think of that . It was over a mile away last we could see it with binoculars. Every summer there's flocks of vultures circling over the corner of that ridge,so there must be some great thermals that develop there for some reason!

getback wrote:Looking Good Chancey , weird how the wing spars cross at an angle in the sections . Its moving along pretty fast for now / shame you have to wait so long to get the sanding done .

Those crossed spars do look strange. I think they were designed that way to give a little more “ surface area” for glue strength in that area, rather than just making a face to face joint, or “butt Joint” ! Those two spots were the “weakest link” on the wings I built many years ago on a Goldberg 1/2a Blazer. After the first flight I had to repair both sides exactly at that joint! They couldn’t take the stress of “falling “ out of the sky after the de-thermalizer released the elevator.

Yep, those spars do indeed look wierd for sure. They are not straight either. The are actually 'punched out' of one of the die-cut balsa sheets and are tapered as well, so the thinner end is at the outboard edge of each panel.

Thanks for the note of them being a 'weak' spot in the design. I did personally glue it very well. I wonder if I drilled a small hole and inserted a toothpick into them to help strengthen it?

If it’s a big concern then just wrap the spar ends with cloth soaked in epoxy. It’s probably fine as is, or join a Free Flight forum and ask if anyone recommends anything.

Out of all the polyhedral wings that I've built, the spars cross as in this design. Some rubber powered planes angle the end ribs so that they can be butt together. Many used Ambroid as it was preferred, reason being is that it provided some flex without breaking the spar itself. On a joint where they cross, when CA is used, the wood breaks directly outside of where the glue wicked in.

Well, I have since decided to just leave the wing as was originally designed. I did not use any CA glue, all of my joints are done with Gorilla Glue wood glue which itself has a bit of flex to it as it is a PVA glue. The only spot I had used any CA is a drop on teh spar joints where they do intersect just to hold together while drying alongside some clamps. Thanks for the input.