WV Redneck F-15/engine clean-up

Thanks GG.  Maybe trying to fly them would be a better description.  

I got the 191-5 designation from this site under "Product engines".

http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm

I don't quite understand the reason for the screen.  My muddled mind thinks it's there to keep debris out of the cylinder but there must be a deeper reason.

I remember years past when I would land them in the weeds, seeds would find their way in there.  Anyway, when I finally do one of Kim's "lawn dart" landings with it and break the fuselage, I'm going to retire and mount that engine.  

Bob

The mesh screen and the slotted screen were an attempt by Cox to prevent flames, fires, and burnt fingers from a running engine. The slit cylinder eventually replaced those attempts. Each version was only produced for a year. Not a rare cylinder but harder to find. This was also done on .020 cylinders and most commonly found on the helicopter engines with the yellow backplate.

Nice clean-up. I guess I will have to see if the Simple Green is available here and give it a try. If I am lucky and find it, when you say immersion, are you reffering to a full immersion in pure SG straight from the bottle? Thank you.

Thanks, Jason_WI for the clarification on the screened cylinders. Looking how the plastic F-15 cockpit area partially covers the cylinder, I'm thinking that for another cylinder to work would require CI - Cox .049 Exhaust Deflector Shield



I'm a little surprised that Cox did not mount the engine cylinder sideways, which would have allowed for a fuller cockpit presentation (water under the bridge).

NEW222 wrote:Nice clean-up. I guess I will have to see if the Simple Green is available here and give it a try. If I am lucky and find it, when you say immersion, are you reffering to a full immersion in pure SG straight from the bottle? Thank you.

Simple Green comes two ways, standard household and concentrate. I used the concentrate here and cut it by about 1/3rd. Don't heat it as it will blacken the case especially if left in the fluid too long.

Yes, full immersion while operating the propeller. You will get hydraulic lock if the head is attached, simple just back off and expel the concentrate then prop again. This action cleans the reed without removing it and eliminates the possibility of damage. I usually remove the glow head avoiding lock, but no way on this screened engine to get the second Cox wrench in the exhaust ports.

The key is compressed air blowout and drying followed by RemOil which over time evaporates and is reputed to leave a "Teflon" film. I have used it for years on my engines and never found fault with it. Early on, I used WD-40 and learned a painful lesson.

Bob

Bearing in mind these "Wings" models were marketed as beginner planes...roundie, roundie only! Upright pistons are harder to flood on prime. Sideways cylinders will flood looking at them sideways (sorry, couldn't help myself). I loved the looks, but hated the flight capabilities. I remember it slowly ran up to take off speed, barely able to climb, and dropped like a hot rock at landing time. It could flare to a stop, and almost land on it's tail. Well, maybe not that bad.

I had the white Cessna too. It looked almost comical with the cylinder sticking up. Kind of reminded.me of those plastic MPC models, the Zingers, with their cartoonishly exaggerated details (engines twice normal for the body, huge wheels in back, little tiny ones up front). That Cessna out-flew the F-15 looking slab of heavy plastic. But, man, the.two jets in the series just looked awesome!

rsv1cox wrote:Simple Green comes two ways, standard household and concentrate. I used the concentrate here and cut it by about 1/3rd. Don't heat it as it will blacken the case especially if left in the fluid too long.  

The key is compressed air blowout and drying followed by RemOil which over time evaporates and is reputed to leave a "Teflon" film.  I have used it for years on my engines and never found fault with it.  Early on, I used WD-40 and learned a painful lesson.  

Bob  

Great, thank you. I think I may have found the concentrate here as it says I can dilute it to make 7.5 gallons. The bottle I believe was 32oz. Cheap enough too at only $6.50.

944_Jim wrote:Bearing in mind these "Wings" models were marketed as beginner planes...roundie, roundie only! Upright pistons are harder to flood on prime. Sideways cylinders will flood looking at them sideways (sorry, couldn't help myself). I loved the looks, but hated the flight capabilities. I remember it slowly ran up to take off speed, barely able to climb, and dropped like a hot rock at landing time. It could flare to a stop, and almost land on it's tail. Well, maybe not that bad.

I had the white Cessna too. It looked almost comical with the cylinder sticking up. Kind of reminded.me of those plastic MPC models, the Zingers, with their cartoonishly exaggerated details (engines twice normal for the body, huge wheels in back, little tiny ones up front). That Cessna out-flew the F-15 looking slab of heavy plastic. But, man, the.two jets in the series just looked awesome!

That's why I brought up going to a more powerful reedy. But, given the limited wingspan and heavy plastic, then you have a faster lead sled. However, a little more power might at least make it more manageable.

Hip Pocket Aeronautics (membership required - free) has a 20.75" wingspan HPA Half-A F-15 CL Plan that would make a better flier if kept light.

That Cessna out-flew the F-15 looking slab of heavy plastic. But, man, the.two jets in the series just looked awesome!

True words!!!!

Checking the F-15 this morning after it had fully dried I was gratified to see that it cleaned up so well. Just a spritz or two of Simple Green got in all the hard to get at places followed by a hose out with water sure made cleaning it easy. It was a dirty greasy mess.







I'm going to try the SG treatment on the Corsairs balky engine today to see if it frees up the reed without disassembly, then try to get it started. Might substitute a clean hot water rinse instead of cold.

Looks Good , do you clean the plastic with the SG and will it remove rubber bands that have melted? Asking cause I get some with rubbers melted on them , had not try to remove them but was thinking rubbing Alcohol.

getback wrote:Looks Good , do you clean the plastic with the SG and will it remove rubber bands that have melted? Asking cause I get some with rubbers melted on them , had not try to remove them but was thinking rubbing Alcohol.

I have been meaning to ask if anyone knew of a solvent that would remove old rubber band residue. Got a couple like yours Eric to clean-up. But no, Simple Green won't touch it.

Bob

Well we may just need to put that out there and see what others are using as not to clean the color away , I haven't heard no one say in my reading so far .

getback wrote:Well we may just need to put that out there and see what others are using as not to clean the color away , I haven't heard no one say in my reading so far .

I'm using Castrol Super Clean Tough Task Cleaner/Degreaser. Got a gallon of it and a spray bottle, at least 10 years old, but still works. It will clean where others won't, but you won't want to use it on painted surfaces. If you do, clean off immediately. It can mar the paint if you're not careful. It is amazing stuff.

I think they still sell it, but may have altered the name.