Stuck .020 TD

mineral spirits down the intake and fill the crankcase, or hoppes #9 bore solvent for a couple hours, then gently try turning the prop. if this doesn`t work after a couple hours of the internal crank "soak", full tear down is how I do it.

If the crank is that stuck, it may need the tear down to get the lube courneys cleaned out anyway. I had a teedee020 like this and a babebee 049 recently.
Both definately needed the teardown for the sake of future lube travel.

Heat with a hair dryer or monokote gun. Add a prop and gently work back and forth. Once it starts to move then add a few drops of oil in the crank case.

This works every time.

Jason

But do you know is the engine stuck with castor or just to tight parts fit somewhere?

nitroairplane wrote:But do you know is the engine stuck with castor or just to tight parts fit somewhere?

The parts are too tight, and I wasn't able to free the crank by soaking it in glow fuel or Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm afraid there might be corrosion inside, because the wrench that came in the case was lightly corroded as though it was exposed to damp air.

How do I disassemble the engine? (Sorry if this has been asked before; I tried the search function.)

Thanks,
Ben

Unscrew all of the parts
What is going on in the video but they other way

Thanks, Nitro. I'll disassemble the engine tomorrow night when I am home. I'd like to get it running on a test stand this weekend.

Sounds good!
Remember to report back with your results.
Indra

Jason gave right answer. Remove carb body and heat from monocote heat gun. Hair dryer does not have the heat. It will free up.
Dan

Guys,

I took the engine apart and discovered that the problem was caused by gunk on the crankshaft. This was a surprise, as I was under the impression it had never been used. I cleaned everything and reassembled the moving parts with a lite coat of Mystery oil. Should I do anything further before running it?

BBreyer wrote:
Guys,

I took the engine apart and discovered that the problem was caused by gunk on the crankshaft. This was a surprise, as I was under the impression it had never been used. I cleaned everything and reassembled the moving parts with a lite coat of Mystery oil. Should I do anything further before running it?

Nope just run it
It may be new as cox did oil engines before shipping them.

I have a new unrun TD .020 and is stiff from sitting. A little heat and frees up right away. These have not been made in a long time and oil dies out over time.

BBreyer wrote:
Guys,

I took the engine apart and discovered that the problem was caused by gunk on the crankshaft. This was a surprise, as I was under the impression it had never been used. I cleaned everything and reassembled the moving parts with a lite coat of Mystery oil. Should I do anything further before running it?

Hold it with the cylinder pointed down and squirt some fuel in it to get some castor oil on the con-rod ball. Crank it and run very rich as outlined in the break-in procedure, if it's never been run before. Run it up to peak and back down a few times. Then see if it will hold peak. If it won't stay peaked it means it's still too tight and heating up. Go back to rich to cool it off and keep trying until it will hold peak for a full tank. Then it's ready for a long life of fun. It may not run perfectly until you've flown it a few times because it spins faster in the air than it ever will on the ground, so it still has a little running in to finish.

A well run in teedee .020 sings a very sweet song!

OK, I didn't see Rusty's reply before I had to return to New York. I'll follow his directions next week. This small problem is a long-term project!